
Class T/ 76 3. 
Book 3Li 



Gopyright N°. 



°)\3 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



Bakers' 
Bread 



BY 

PAUL RICHARDS. 



THIRD EDITION. 



THE BAKERS' HELPER COMPANY, 

CHICAGO. 






Copyright, 1913, 

By PAUL RICHARDS. 

Chicago. 



/.fa 

©CI.A350330 



FOREWORD. 



HAVE included in this book the different methods of 
**• bread making used in America and in Europe. The 
making and use of the different yeasts are explained in 
simple terms, also the methods of ferments, sponge and 
straight doughs. The recipes are explained in a manner 
to insure success, and are so arranged that they may be 
adapted to the requirements of different bakeries, besides 
giving the up-to-date baker a variety of suggestions for 
many kinds of bread. 

The variety of flours used in the different parts of this 
country often makes it difficult to work the same recipes 
equally well in all places. Bakers coming from the East 
find it hard to work with the flours of the West, and vice 
versa; the treatment of doughs also varies very much in 
different shops. Almost all these points have been covered 
in this book. 

Baking is a business of many details, and it pays at all 
times to be particular in the small points of the work. The 
success of our foremost bakers is due to the fact that they 
have mastered these details and studied the business 
theoretically as well as practically. 

From year to year the baking industry has advanced to 
a more and more scientific basis; for this reason every 
baker should try to obtain a technical education to be able 
to test his own materials, and to control the conditions un- 
der which he makes his bread. Thus prepared, he could go 

(3> 



4 Foreword. 

to any part of the country and produce a uniform bread 
everywhere. 

The old-time guess work, the trusting to good luck, 
must go. Every progressive baker should use the ther- 
mometer in his shop; Dy careful attention to the tempera- 
ture of the shop and materials, also to the weight of the 
flour and water, the baker is able to make a dough of a 
uniform temperature, which can be relied upon to be ready 
at a certain time. The oven should be provided with a good 
pyrometer, by means of which the knowledge of the baking 
heat can be readily acquired. If a shop is supplied with the 
right kind of appliances, and the baker learns how to use 
them, it leaves out guess work and makes good results 
certain. 

Hoping the book will prove useful to the baker I submit 
it herewith to the fraternity. 




CONTENTS. 



Buns and Rusks. 

Bismarck Buns 77 

Caraway and Anise Buns 78 

Cocoanut Buns 78 

Currant Buns 75 

English Bath Buns 79 

Floradora Buns 716 

Fruit in Cakes and Buns 74 

German Almond Buns 75 

German Streusel Buns 76 

Hot Cross Buns 74 

Martha Washington Buns 77 

Nut Filling 77 

Opera Buns 77 

Plain Buns 75 

Plain Currant Buns 75 

Rusks 78 

Standard Dough Mixtures 73 

Streusel 76 

Sultana Buns 75 

Coffee Cakes. 

Almond Coffee Cake 85 

American Kauglauff 92 

Berlin Napfkuchen, Plain 91 

Butter Pretzel 87 

Coffee Cake No. 2 85 

Dresden Baba 91 

French Baba 91 

French Coffee Cake 86 

French Tea Rolls 87 

German Cheese Cakes 88 

German Coffee Cakes 84 

German Cream Cake 89 

German Kranzkuchen 88 

German Napfkuchen 9 1 

German Potato Coffee Cake 85 

Plain Coffee Cake 85 

Potato Cream Cake 87 

( 



Raisin Coffee Cake u j 

Savarin Cakes 91 

Snails 90 

Wreaths 89 

Doughnuts, Muffin* and Griddle 
Cakea. 

American Butter Cakes 101 

Baking Powder Biscuit 99 

Bismarcks 95 

Buckwheat Cakes with Baking Pow- 
der 102 

Corn Gridle Cakes 103 

Corn Muffins 99 

Crumpets 99 

Crumpets with Baking Powder ... 99 

Doughnuts No. 1 94 

Doughnuts No. 2 95 

Doughnuts or Crullers with Baking 

Powder 96 

Dresden Cheese Puffs 96 

English Muffins 97 

English Muffins in Rings 97 

French Crullers 96 

Graham Griddle Cakes 103 

Jelly Doughnuts 95 

Muffins with Baking Powder 98 

New York Butter Cakes 101 

Sally Lunn 98 

Sally Lunn Muffins 98 

Scotch Scones 100 

Tea Biscuit 100 

Vienna Krapfen 95 

Wheat Calces with Baking Powder. 102 

Yeast-Raised Buckwheat Cakes 102 

Yeast-Raised Doughnuts 94 

Yeast-Raised Griddle Cakes 102 

Yeast-Raised Muffins (Sweet 
Biscuit 98 



5) 



Bakers 1 Bread. 



Dough-Making Methods. 

Dough Made with Sponge i o 

Effect of Altitude on Baking Mix- 
tures 15 

Lime- Water in Baking 14 

Milk in Dough Mixtures 14 

Short and Long-Timed Straight 

Doughs 11 

Soft-Crusted Breads 16 

Sponge and Dough 9 

Straight Dough 10 

Temperature in Dough-Making. . . 12 

Using Ice in Sponge and Dough.. 12 

Hearth-Baked Breads. 

Cottage Bread and Split Bread 29 

Cottage Bread with Compressed 

Yeast 30 

Dutch Bread 30 

French Split Bread 30 

Irish Bread 3* 

Irish Bread with Straight Dough.. 31 

Potato Bread 31 

Potato Bread with Potato Flour.. 31 

Twist Bread 31 

French Breads. 

Chicago French Bread 47 

French Bread with Ferment .... 50 
French Bread with Short Sponge 

and Compressed Yeast 50 

New York French Bread 48 

Home-Made Breads. 

Columbia Bread 22 

Cream Bread or Milk Bread 26 

Home-Made Bread with Com- 
pressed Yeast Sponge 20 

Home-Made Bread with a Flour 

Ferment 20 

Home-Made Bread with a Sponge 

of Ferment 20 

Home-Made Milk Bread 20 

Mother's Bread 22 

New England Bread 24 

New England Bread with Fer- 
ment 24 

New England Bread with Sponge. 25 
New England Bread with Straight 
Dough 25 

Other Pan Breads 35 



Pan Breads with Compressed Yeast 

Sponge '. 26 

Pan Breads with Ferment 25 

Potato Bread 26 

Pullman Bread 28 

Quaker Breads 21 

Quaker Bread with Compressed 

Yeast 21 

Quaker Bread with Ferment 21 

Snow Flake Bread 23 

Snow Flake Bread — Sandwich 

Loaf 24 

Snow Flake Bread with Buttermilk 23 

Individual Breads and Rolls. 

American Vienna Roll Mixtures. . . 67 

Bread Sticks 61 

Butter Rolls 69 

Cheese Sticks 62 

Cheese Straws and Biscuits 62 

Columbia Roll 70 

Finger Rolls 70 

French Brioche 61 

French Flutes 65 

French Rolls 65 

French Split Rolls 65 

German Rolls 66 

Graham Rolls 71 

German Water Rolls 67 

Hamburg Rundstuck (German 

Brodchen) 67 

Milk Rolls 69 

New Orleans Rolls 70 

Parker House Roll 68 

Plain Sandwich Roll 71 

Pocket Book Roll 69 

Pulled Bread 61 

Rasp Roll (Raspel Brodchen) 63 

Soup Sticks with Baking Powder . . 62 

Vienna Brioches 65 

Vienna Milk Rolls 64 

Vienna Rolls 63 

Vienna Rolls with Shortening.... 64 

Vienna Rolls with Straight Dough. 68 

Vienna Water Rolls 64 

Rye Breads. 

Bohemian Rye Bread 55 

Half Rye Bread 56 

Half Rye Bread with Molasses. ... 56 

Pumpernickel 57 

Rye Bread with Sour Dough 53 



Contents. 



Rye Bread with Sour Dough and 

Yeast 55 

Rye Bread with a Straight Dough. 55 

Rye Bread with Sugar and Lard.. 56 

Sour Dough for Rye Breads 54 

Special Breads. 

Boston Brown Bread 35 

Boston Brown Bread with Baking 

Powder 3° 

Boston Brown Bread with Soda.. 36 

Buttermilk Corn Bread 38 

Cheap Fruit Bread 41 

Cocoanut Bread 4* 

Electric Brown Bread 35 

Fancy Fruit Bread 40 

Fruit Breads with Baking Powder 42 

Fruit Bread with Molasses 41 

Graham Bread 33 

Graham Bread with Soda and 

Sponge 34 

Graham Bread with Straight Dough 34 
New Orleans Corn Bread Yeast 

Raised 3» 

Nut Bread No. 2 37 

Nut Health Bread 36 

Oaten Bread No. 1 37 

Oaten Bread No. 2 38 

Rice Bread 40 

Salt Rising Bread 42 

Southern Family Corn Bread 39 

Southern Fruit Bread 42 

Sultana (Seedless Raisin) Bread.. 41 

Whole Wheat Bread 34 

Whole Wheat Bread with Potatoes 34 
Yeast-Raised Brown Bread 35 



The Small Baker and Fiours. 

Flour Storage "2 

Graham and Whole Wheat Flour. 113 

New Flours lI1 

Rye Flour and Rye Meal "3 

Testing Flours "2 

Vienna Breads. 

Vienna Bread; Straight Dough with 
Ferment 45 

Vienna Bread with a Short Sponge 44 

Vienna Bread without Sugar or 
Lard 45 

Vienna Bread with Sponge with- 
out Milk 45 

Yeasts and Their Use. 

Compressed Yeast 104 

Ferment with Compressed Yeast.. 107 

General Suggestions 109 

Maiden Yeast 104 

Potato Ferments 108 

Stock Yeast ^5 

Yeast Cake— Dry Yeast »o8 

Zwieback and Stollen. 

Almond Stollen 82 

German Stollen 82 

Hamburg Kinder Zwieback 81 

Hamburg Zwieback 80 

Hamburg Zwieback No. 2 80 

Hungarian or Presburg Zwieback. 81 

Other German Zwieback 81 

Plain Stollen 83 

Plain Stollen No. 2 83 

Vienna Zwieback 81 



Miscellaneous. 

Various Breads from One Sponge. 115 Maryland Beaten Biscuit.. 

German Puffs or Pop-overs 116 

Machinery in Small Bakery 118 



Southern Beaten Biscuit »7 



The Use of Malt Extract. 



Malt Extract in Bread 

Malt Extract as a Yeast Saver. 



119 
.121 



Three Recipes for Malted 
Bread 



.119 



Dougk-Making Methods. 



SPONGE AND DOUGH. 

The system of sponge and dough is the most largely used by 
bakers. It saves yeast and has some advantages over straight 
doughs, because it enables the baker to make different kinds of 
doughs out of one sponge. A sponge can be set for a longer time 
than a straight dough, and if it gets too old more water can be 
added to save it, although it is not advisable to use too old a sponge 
because too long fermentation takes out flavor. 

Sponges are termed "long" and "short" sponges according to 
the length of time required during the fermentation till it is ready 
for doughing. 

The time can be made long or short by using more or less yeast, 
and increasing or lowering the temperature of the water when set- 
ting the sponge, and also by making a slacker or tighter sponge — that 
is to use less or more flour in mixing. When setting sponge with 
compressed yeast the yeast is made stronger by dissolving it before 
setting the sponge and working it with some flour and warm water 
into a soft paste or batter. And setting it aside for twenty minutes 
in a warm place. When this time has elapsed it is thinned up with 
the other water and the sponge is finished. 

The flour should not be drawn in all at one time ; about half of 
it should be taken at first and worked in and then the rest should 
be added and beaten in good and dry. This assures a good sponge 
The sponge rises up evenly, and when it reaches maturity it shows 
bubbles. After some time the bubbles burst and give off gas and 
the sponge drops in the centre, and when it is down about two inches 
it is ready for doughing. This stage is termed the "first drop." If 
a sponge is not taken at this stage it begins to rise again after some 
time, and then drops again; this is the "second drop." With a 
strong flour the fermentation will continue in this manner till all 
the strength of the flour is exhausted, and the sponge turns sour. 

Many bakers like to take the sponge on the second drop, and 
claim it is better for the stronger flours to use it at this stage; it 

(9) 



10 Bakers* Bread. 

makes a larger loaf, gives more expansion. But I prefer to take 
sponges on the first drop, because it gives a better flavored loal A 
sponge should not be taken when it is rising; after it has attained 
the drop it should be taken going down and before rising again. 

Where different grades of flour are used it is best to use the 
stronger flour for the sponge and the weaker for doughing. A 
sponge made out of weak flour should not be given much age; it 
should be taken always at the first drop, because the flour loses its 
resistance and would cause a small, heavy loaf. A sponge of weak 
flour should be set tighter than a sponge of stronger flour. 

The long sponges are useful for the baker because they can be 
set in the evening and taken in the morning. The night sponges 
are set at 8 or 9 p. m., and taken at 4 and 5 a. m. This gives a good 
night's rest to the baker, and the dough can be got ready in a short 
time for moulding. 

The short sponges are set in the morning, and a sponge can be 
got ready to the drop in a very short time. It depends merely on the 
temperature and on the amount of yeast used. Compressed yeast is 
the strongest and a very short sponge can be made by its use. 

DOUGH MADE WITH SPONGE. 

A dough made with a sponge differs from a straight dough be- 
cause it requires a shorter time to get ready for use. The time for 
a sponge dough to get ready for use is from one to one and a halt 
flours. A half sponge dough is when one-half of the water or milk 
is used in the sponge and the other half is put on for doughing. If 
more sponge is used, like in a two-thirds sponge or three-quarter 
sponge, the time is shortened by half. For some kinds of rolls an 
in goods where a strong proof is required, like in coffeecake, the 
sponge is used, straight, only the eggs, sugar and butter are added 
and more flour is worked in to give the proper consistency to the 
dough. 

STRAIGHT DOUGH. 

The straight or off-hand dough process is coming more and 
more in favor with the bakers; it saves time and labor, and makes 
the sweetest and best flavored bread. The straight dough is made 
by mixing all the materials at one time. It can be made with any 
kind of yeast, but making straight dough has come more in use 
since the stronger and more reliable compressed yeast became better 
known. A straight dough requires more yeast than a sponge dough. 



Dough- Making. It 

and the larger the quantity of yeast used in it the sooner it will 
be ready for use. 

If a straight dough is set at a warm temperature and with the 
right quantity of yeast, it can be got ready for moulding in four 
hours. A straight dough can also be set at a cool temperature in 
the evening, and used in the morning. 

SHORT AND LONG-TIMED STRAIGHT DOUGHS. 

The advantages of short straight doughs over sponge doughs 
are many. They save time and labor, and all the baking can be 
done during the daytime. Practical bakers prefer short doughs be- 
cause they can be watched during the time they are coming, and 
the best results are obtained. Straight doughs set over night can- 
not be timed accurately, because of the changes in the outside tem- 
perature, which may cause such doughs to ripen earlier or later as 
the case may be. By using less yeast and iced water a straight 
dough can be made to come slow and be ready in from ten to 
twelve hours even during the hottest season. For example: A 
straight dough to be ready for moulding in about four hours should 
be managed in the following manner: For a two-pail batch, 20 
quarts, take ten ounces of compressed yeast, twelve ounces of 
salt, twelve ounces of sugar and twenty ounces of lard. Make 
the dough at a warm temperature so that it will register from 
eighty to eighty-five degrees Fahr., when made, and have the shop 
at a similar temperature, say from seventy-five to eighty degrees. 
This temperature should be kept up evenly till the moulded loaves 
are ready for the oven. Make a good medium firm dough. Partic- 
ular attention should be paid to the mixing; a well mixed dough 
with plenty of air beaten in will prove well and make a finer grained 
and larger loaf than a dough mixed carelessly and insufficiently. 
At the given temperature the dough should be cut over after lying 
for two hours, given one hour to come and cut over again; after 
half an hour rest the dough is ready for moulding. A large dough 
should be divided in several parts during the cutting over and each 
piece well worked over. All this helps to make a good strong 
dough and a good loaf. Where there is plenty of oven space, or 
continuous ovens, several batches can be made in succession, and 
the dough can be timed to be ready when required. 

For an overnight dough made after the same recipe a lower 
temperature and less yeast are required. Take about three ounces 
of yeast for a two-pail batch, and set the dough at about seventy 



X2 Bakers' Bread. 

degrees Fahr. This dough set at six in the evening, would be ready 
at about six in the morning, excepting in case of excessive changes 
of temperature during this time. It would improve this dough if it 
could get a cutting over after lying for about eight hours, and after 
four more hours it could be taken at once for moulding. If it is 
not cut over during the twelve hours, the dough rises to full ma- 
turity, then flattens and falls like a sponge. For such a dough it is 
preferable to give it only a little time on the bench to recover, then 
mould and pan at once. 

During the hot season the doughs require a still lower tem- 
perature, and the amount of salt may be increased to ten ounces for 
the pail; while during the cold winter months more yeast and less 
salt is the general rule. Large batches also require less yeast to 
the pail than small ones, or two-pail batches. 

A straight dough after it is ready for moulding can be made 
into rolls, coffee cake, etc., by adding more sugar and butter or lard 
in the same manner as adding to a sponge. 

TEMPERATURE IN DOUGH-MAKING. 

To obtain uniform results in baking, a baker should use a ther- 
mometer and keep the shop at an even temperature. The tempera- 
ture of the shop, of the flour and of the water should be taken ; and 
if a sponge is used the temperature of it should also be taken before 
doughing. A temperature from 70 F. to 75° F., is considered the 
most favorable for a dough. A dough at this temperature becomes 
stronger and makes a better loaf and allows the use of a softer 
dough than if a higher temperature is used. At a higher tempera- 
ture the dough rises faster and can be taken at a shorter time, but 
loses strength. It can not stand as much proof, and makes conse- 
quently a smaller loaf. 

To obtain the right temperature for a dough to be set at 75 , 
we take the temperature of the flour. Say it is only 50° and the 
shop is 70 ; this would require the water to be about 102 to make 
up 75 in the sponge to allow for heat absorbed by the cooler shop. 

Short straight doughs are set at a temperature from 8o° to 85 
and are not affected or weakened by this temperature. 

The size of a trough is an important factor in making the 
dough. It should be large enough to give plenty of room for work- 
ing it from one side to the other and should be supplied with a mov- 
able partition. A dough should also have plenty of room to prove 
up after it is made, and not be penned up in too small a space. 



Dough-Making. 13 

A. dough should get the right fermentation before it is worked 
over. It should come up till it starts to break, then it should be 
worked down well and allowed to come up again, given another cut, 
allowed to come on and then it is ready to be used. A baker should 
always be careful in taking a dough, because only a practical ex- 
perience will teach when the dough has got the proper age. When a 
dough gets the right age it loses the green feeling and becomes 
dry and strong, and does not stick to the fingers. It is a point 
learned only by experience. 

USING ICE IN SPONGE AND DOUGH. 

During the hot season there is often serious trouble ahead for 
the baker in the necessity to keep the doughs from getting too old 
and having sour bread. Although much can be done to keep a shop 
cool by means of fans and spraying with water, and also the flour 
can possibly be kept in a cooler place than where it is kept during 
the cold months, still something is liable to happen any time; the 
sudden atmospheric changes upset all ordinary calculations and the 
result is sour bread. 

To counteract these atmospheric influences some of our modern 
bakeries are using large refrigerating rooms, and have regular ice- 
machines for this purpose, just like the cold storage plants. By this 
means they are able to control the dough at will and obtain a uniform 
loaf of bread at any time of the year. Ice plants like this are ex- 
pensive, and bakers who have no such advantages have to use ice 
and iced water for sponge and dough. For this reason it is ad- 
visable not to make too large batches of dough, because a smaller 
batch is easier controlled. A large batch should be made into two 
small ones like this : For instance, we intend to make a twelve-pail 
batch in warm weather, we set sponge with six pails of water and 
and the proper amount of yeast or ferment. When the sponge is 
ready we proceed and make the dough; we put on the other six 
pails of water with the salt in it. Even in summer the average 
spring and hydrant water is cool enough to be used as it is, but 
where this is not the case, and the flour is overheated or the shop 
too hot, iced water has to be used to get the right temperature. 
We break up the sponge well and transfer one-half of it to the other 
trough. If the weather is very warm we can add a couple of pieces 
of ice and another handful of salt to the part of the broken sponge 
which is intended for the second batch, and make up the first half 
into dough. When this dough is ready we can commence to make 



14 Bakers' Bread. 

up the second batch or wait as we see fit. This way of making 
dough in two batches instead of in one is probably slower, but there 
is not so much danger of sour bread, especially where there is not 
enough oven space to bake the bread at one time, as it gives from 
thirty minutes to one hour's time between the two batches. Salt is 
also a check on fermentation and it should be used more freely in 
summer. 

MILK IN DOUGH MIXTURES. 

Milk makes a very palatable bread, and it can be used in straight 
doughs as well as in sponges without any danger of souring, if 
handled carefully. Many bakers object to using milk in doughs 
because it is more difficult than water to use with yeast. I would 
not advise its use in sponges of a high temperature without boiling 
it before using, but it will work all right in a cool sponge. 

When using all milk for bread, I should prefer using it in a 
straight dough. When only half or part milk is used, I should 
sponge with water and u:e the milk for doughing. 

Milk that is beginning to turn can be used for doughing by 
adding a teaspoonful of baking soda to the gallon of milk. Sour 
milk, if put on a sponge for doughing, will make the fermentation 
more rapid, and ages the dough in a shorter time ; but it should not 
be used with the yeast in a sponge. In the hot season I would 
not advise the use of milk in very large batches, because it will 
make the dough prove faster and it requires close watching and a 
cool treatment. 

Milk takes up less flour than the same quantity of water, and 
in consequence will make a firmer dough, which will bake quicker. 
It will also give more color to the crust in baking, and the crumb 
is of a rich cream color. 

LIME WATER IN BAKING. 

Like alum, lime water has been used for years in bread-making, 
to improve weak bodied flours. The use of alum has been given 
up for sanitary reasons, but lime water is still used to correct flours, 
which have got damp in the package and become musty or sour. 

It is also used in green flours which run in the dough, caused 
by unripe and sprouted wheat. In some flours, like the Oregon 
flour, which contain very little gluten, and can not stand much 
proof, lime water is used to strengthen the flour and to allow more 
proof in the dough. Although weak flours as a general rule require 
less yeast than the strong flours, if lime water is used with a weak 



Dough-Making, 15 

flour, it requires also a strong, vigorous yeast or ferment, because 
cne iime water checks fermentation; but the dough should be taken 
young, when it is up the first time. The lime water is made like 
the pickle which is used for preserving eggs, only leave the salt 
out. Take one pound of fresh dry slacked lime and stir it up 
well with one pail of twelve quarts of water; let it settle, and 
draw off the clear liquid without disturbing the sediment on the 
bottom. Use from one to two quarts of it for the pail of dough 
and use it in the dough only, not in the sponge. Use more yeast 
in the sponge. The proportions I have given apply to the Oregon 
flours, which I used at that time of my experiments. As some 
flours work differently, and are stronger or weaker, they require 
more or less of the lime water. 

EFFECT OF ALTITUDE ON BAKING MIXTURES. 

It is always a puzzle to bakers, used to work in lower altitudes, 
that some of the general recipes do not work as usual, and even the 
yeast works more vigorously in the doughs and sponges when they 
get out west in the higher altitudes of Colorado and other mountain 
states. I had some experience of it at the time I worked at Denver, 
but this difference is still more pronounced at the more elevated 
cities of Leadville and Cripple Creek. Bread and rolls prove more 
rapidly and require less yeast (or a weaker grade of yeast), and 
this can easily be regulated. The greatest difficulty is with the cake 
mixtures. The ordinary mixtures will rise and fall during baking 
as if there was too much baking powder in it, and the rich grades of 
cakes were the most difficult to make. I had a man with me who 
had been there for some years, and through him I learned to over- 
come this difficulty. 

In comparing our recipes I found less sugar was used in all of 
them and in some more flour, also less baking powder and ammonia. 
In rich mixtures like pound-cake, wine-cake and other loaf-cakes, 
it amounted to from three to four ounces to the pound of sugar less, 
and in the layer-cake mixtures (also for jelly-roll) it was about two 
ounces less,. The amount of baking powder is about half, and in 
some mixtures one-third less than is required in the eastern mix- 
tures; the same also with ammonia. Lady-finger mixtures and also 
angel cake and sunshine cake stand more flour, about two ounces 
more to the pound of flour than is given in ordinary mixtures. 

It seems the higher altitudes would require still less leavening 
agents, and also less shortening and sugar. 



16 Bakers' Bread. 

SOFT-CRUSTED BREADS. 

Although some food experts say that the crust is the best part 
of the bread, and contains the most nourishment, the public in gen- 
eral prefer a soft, thin-crusted bread. The richer grades of bread, 
which contain milk, sugar or lard, are liked better than the all -water 
breads. I have observed myself that in a restaurant where several 
kinds of bread were served in one basket, the soft-crusted and 
richer breads were liked better and more used than the hard, tough- 
crusted French breads. 

The French bread, which should be the ideal dinner bread, 
gives more and more way to the richer and softer-crusted Vienna 
bread. Many bakers, who are making French bread, add milk or 
sugar and shortening to it, and in some bakeries it is made alto- 
gether out of the Vienna dough, only in the shape of the long, 
narrow French loaves, and given a little more crust in baking. To 
produce a soft and brittle crust, with a good bloom, to make a good 
Vienna bread, it is necessary to have a good oven, which holds 
steam. It is the steam which forms a coat of moisture on the loaf 
when it is put in the oven, gives the dough time to expand, and 
forms the soft, even crust, which is so well liked. 

This soft crust can also be produced on panbreads, if they are 
baked in steam ; and in an oven without steam attachments the same 
soft, thin crust is produced by covering the panbreads during baking 
with another pan ; or have pans made with a cover to fit, and made 
in single and double pans. The loaves weigh about two pounds and 
a quarter in the dough, which fills the pan when proved and baked, 
and makes a nice, square slice of bread with a thin crust. 

Every baker knows sugar and milk give color to the crust in 
baking, and lard or butter makes the crust short and brittle. If all 
milk is used, the crust colors too much, and is soft and dark brown, 
not as good as if only one-half or only one-third milk is used, and 
some lard with it. A very good crust is also produced by leaving 
out the milk and using sugar and lard only; but then some of the 
pleasant taste, which milk gives to the bread, is missing. For a 
good Vienna bread, the best combination would be for a three-gallon 
pail, about one gallon of milk, two of water, one pound of lard, 
twelve ounces of sugar, or one pound of glucose, and eight ounces 
of salt. Sponge with water, and put on the milk for doughing, and 
use a good, strong flour. The same mixture may be used for Cream 
Bread and Jfullman. with some soft flour added; this should make 



Dough- Making. 17 

a good loaf. If Vienna bread is baked in an oven which does not 
hold steam, it should be washed with water before going into the 
oven, and when withdrawn a thin cornstarch wash should be used 
to glaze it. A good egg-wash can also be used before baking; but 
in this case the bread is not washed after coming out. All these 
breads require a cool treatment in the sponge and dou^h, and if the 
loaves during the proving process are exposed to draughts or a dry 
heat, a crust is formed on the dough which will show after they are 
baked. For this reason it is best to prove it in a box, proving closet 
or in closed pans, and get it in the oven as moist as possible. The 
result will be a nice, thin crust and a good bloom. 

Another kind of bread of a short and brittle crust is produced 
in the split loaves, and also in the small split rolls. This class of 
breads require no steam, but milk and shortening are used, and 
they are washed with lard before they are pressed in with the roll- 
ing-pin, and this produces the brittle crust when baked. A little 
practical study of this subject will teach any baker to obtain the 
desired crust. 

OVEN TEMPERATURES, ETC. 

The baking heat for bread is often registered as from 350 to 
500 degrees Fahrenheit in the different makes of ovens; and this 
depends largely on how near or how far the meter is placed from 
the furnace. For this reason a certain scale cannot be adopted 
for all ovens. A few trials will teach the right degree of baking 
heat, and each baker should fix his own scale to suit the oven he 
is using. In ovens which register 450 degrees as the right heat 
for white bread, a slightly higher degree (say 480 to 500 degrees) 
may be used for rye breads, 450 for white and French and Vienna 
bread and rolls; 300 to 350 for the different cakes and a lower 
degree for macaroons, meringues, etc. 

To avoid confusion in regard to the size of pails referred to in 
various recipes in the pages following, the size should be under- 
stood to be a ten-quart pail (20 pounds of water), except in 
cases where the pail is given as a twelve-quart pail. 



Home Made Breads. 



The name "home made" has always been an attraction to the 
public; it suggests something better and superior, more healthful 
and substantial, than ordinary bread. That is the reason why home- 
made breads often bring a higher price than others. The method 
of making bread in families is mostly by means of a straight dough ; 
the dough is generally set in the evening and left to rise. In the 
morning it is kneaded, again left to rise a short time, then it is 
moulded into loaves, proved and baked. 

The older recipes for home made bread called for water only; 
some for half milk; and no shortening is mentioned in any of them. 
They all used stock and potato yeast The more modern recipes 
mention sugar and lard, besides milk and also compressed yeast. 
Some use boiled and grated potatoes, and others scalded corn- 
meal. 

It is significant that with the introduction of compressed yeast 
the recipes begin to change, and shortening and sugar is used. It 
seems to indicate that something was lacking in the breads after 
giving up the use of stock yeast and potato ferment, and the sugar 
and lard were added as an improvement. Many old bakers assert 
that the old process makes a better bread, keeps it moister and 
gives a better flavored loaf. The family-made bread is heavier 
than the average bakers' bread, but it is good to eat and retains 
more moisture. It is not so great in volume, but it is more sub- 
stantial. The objection raised against some bakers' bread is always : 
"It is too spongy and not substantial enough." Home made breads 
are generally baked in single pans in one and two-pound loaves; 
but there is no certain rule. Sometimes hearth-baked breads are 
sold as home-made. The loaves are washed by some bakers before 
baking, and others brush the tops with lard or melted butter when 
taking them from the oven. This makes the crust brittle, and gives 
it a pleasant taste. 

To meet this objection, and to make something more like a 
family loaf, I give here some of the old recipes which can be used 

08) 



Home-Made Breads. 19 

for pan breads and also for hearth breads; only if hearth-baked, 
a firmer dough is required. In all these recipes where a pail is in- 
dicated, a ten-quart pail is intended, unless otherwise specified: 

No. 1. — One pail ferment, 3 pails water, iy 2 pounds salt. Make 
a straight dough in the evening. Set rather cool (about 65 F.) 
at 9 p. m., and take it at 5 a. m., or sooner, if it is ready; work it 
down and let it come up again; knock it down once more; let it 
come up half, and make into loaves. Do not give full proof in 
the pan. Bake in 350° F. 

No. 2. — One pail milk and water, 6 pounds boiled potatoes, 6 
quarts of ferment or 6 ounces of yeast, 7 ounces salt. Mash the 
potatoes while warm. Dissolve the yeast; add the water and milk, 
also the salt; and make a smooth dough, rather tight; set at 75 F., 
and keep at an even temperature. If this dough is made in the 
morning it will be up in about five hours; work it over again; 
let it rise again, then make it into loaves, pan and bake in a good 
heat. This should make a nice moist loaf. 

No. 3. — Here is one of my old recipes which I have used for 
years and can recommend as tried and reliable. I have used it 
for French Bread and for pan bread, also for cottage and split 
loaves, but the dough should be made firmer for the latter two. 
It will also make a good crisp split roll: One pail of potato fer- 
ment, 3 quarts water, 10 ounces salt. Make a straight dough ; set at 
75° F. Take a good strong potato ferment; dissolve the salt in 
the water, and with two parts of spring and one part of winter 
wheat flour make a medium firm dough; work it well and pen 
up close. In a warm shop this dough will be up in three hours; 
work it over and let it come up half. Then throw out, scale and 
mould into loaves; prove and bake. This is best suited for the 
shop because a batch can be turned out in five hours without forcing 
it. To obtain a solid loaf care should be taken not to give full proof 
in baking. Sugar and lard can be used in this recipe if desired 
to make a richer bread. 

No. 4. — Twelve quarts water, 5 ounces yeast, 1 pound lard, 
12 ounces sugar, 8 ounces salt. Make a straight dough; work it 
well and smooth ; set it at 75 ° F. ; let it come up full and work it 
over; and let it come up double size; then scale, mold back, and set 
in pans and prove; bake in 350 F. 

No. 5. — Two pails water, 1 pound sugar, 1 pound lard, J4 pound 
compressed yeast, 10 ounces salt. Dissolve the yeast, and make 
a thin batter with flour and one quart of water; let it stand for 



20 Bakers' Bread. 

twenty minutes in a warm place, then add the other liquid, sugar 
and salt; work in more flour, add the lard and finish as in the 
former recipe. 

HOME MADE MILK BREAD. 

Six ounces yeast, 3 gallons water, 1 gallon milk, 3 pounds 
scalded cornmeal, y 2 pound sugar, 6 ounces salt. Dissolve the yeast 
in one pint of warm water and add flour to make a soft batter; 
beat it up well and let it stand in a warm place for twenty min- 
utes; then put on the other liquid at the right temperature; add 
sugar, lard, cornmeal and salt, and make a medium dough. Let this 
dough come up full ; work down and give only a little time to come 
on; scale and mould; put in pans and give good three-quarters 
proof; bake in a solid heat. This dough should be worked over 
very well, because the cornmeal makes it rather sticky. 

HOME MADE BREADS WITH A SPONGE OF FERMENT. 

Set a sponge with one pail of straight potato ferment and a 
good patent flour. When this sponge reaches the first drop add 1 
pail of water, 1 pound sugar, 1 pound lard, $4 pound of salt. Break 
up the sponge well with the sugar and salt in it; mix in half 
of the flour; then add the lard; mix this in well, and then add the 
other flour required for a good dough; work it smooth; let it 
come up well, and then scale, mould, pan and prove. Bake in a 
solid heat. A dough made out of a sponge should be made a little 
tighter than a straight dough because it will slacken some after it is 
made. 

HOME MADE BREAD WITH A FLOUR FERMENT. 

Six ounces yeast, 2 gallons water, 1 gallon milk, 1 pint molasses, 
6 ounces lard, 6 ounces salt. Set a very slack sponge, or rather a 
ferment, with the water, some flour, yeast and molasses; set it 
luke-warm about the thickness of a griddle cake batter; beat it 
up well, and set to rise. When this ferment falls, which will be 
in about two hours or before, put on the milk, salt and shortening, 
and make the dough; let it come up well; work over; scale; mould 
back; put in pans; prove, and bake in a good heat of 350 F. 

HOME MADE BREAD WITH COMPRESSED VEAST SPONGE. 

Two pails of water, 5 ounces yeast, 1 pound salt, }i pound sugar, 
x /2 pound lard, 2 pounds of cornmeal made into mush. Make the 
sponge with one pail of water; dissolve the yeast and set at 75° to 
8o° P., not too tight. When the sponge is ready, put on the other 



Home-Made Breads. 21 

pail of water with the salt, sugar and lard. If the mush is lumpy 
it should be thinned and forced through a sieve on the sponge. 
Break the sponge fine, and make a good medium firm dough; work 
it well, because the mush gives a wet, unfinished feel to the dough. 
Let it come up well; work down and let it spring on again; scale 
and make into loaves without moulding back; give good proof and 
bake in a good solid heat. 

QUAKER BREADS. 

The bread sold under this name is a double pan loaf, that is, 
two loaves are baked in one pan. In some places they are made in. 
a long shape, and two one pound loaves are set in one square pan r 
others are baked in one long pan in a square shape. Other bakers 
use two square pans strapped together, so the loaves touch only on 
the top and can be easily separated and sold single. Almost every 
baker has a different recipe for making Quaker Bread. While some 
bakers use the best grades of flour for this bread, others use only 
the second grades. Sugar and lard are used for it by all bakers, 
and some add cornmeal mush, or use cornflour, and others use 
glucose or molasses instead of sugar. 

These breads are best made with straight dough; but they can 
also be made by sponge process, or taken from a sponge of which 
other breads are made; but the dough should be taken young and 
should contain sugar and lard. If malt extract is used half of the 
sugar given in the recipes would be sufficient. 

QUAKER BREAD WITH FERMENT. 

One pail ferment, 1 pound of sugar or one pint molasses, J4 
pound salt, H pound lard. Make a straight dough with a good 
strong patent flour; let it come up twice; scale and mold in pans; 
give good proof and bake in a good heat of 350 F. to 400 F. 

QUAKER BREAD WITH COMPRESSED YEAST. 

One pail water, 5 ounces yeast, ]/ 2 pound glucose, 2 pounds corn- 
meal mush, 6 ounces salt, H pound lard. Dissolve the yeast and 
glucose in warm water and make a soft batter with some flour; 
let it stand for twenty minutes, then thin up this batter with the 
other water; add salt mush and lard and make a good smooth 
dough; let it prove up well; work down well; let it come on half 
and scale and mold in pans. Give good proof and bake in a good 
solid heat. 



22 Bakers* Bread. 

mother's bread. 

"Mother's Bread" is also baked as a double pan loaf, like the 
Quaker Bread. It is made by the straight dough method with 
sugar and lard, in about double the quantities given in the Quaker 
Bread recipes. The same pans are used and it is molded round, 
dusted slightly with flour, set in the pans so as to touch lightly, and 
is baked without using any wash. Three recipes are given : 

No. i. — One pail of water, I pound of sugar, i pound of lard, 5 
ounces of yeast, 6 ounces of salt. Dissolve the yeast in the water; 
add the sugar, salt and lard and make a smooth dough; work it 
well and let it come up full the first time; let it come again about 
half; scale, mold, pan, prove, and bake in a medium heat — about 
325 F. Do not give too much proof, because this bread should be 
close grained like the "Home-made" bread. 

No. 2. — With ferment and milk — 14 pail of strong potato fer- 
ment, l / 2 pail milk, l / 2 pound sugar, l / 2 pound lard, 8 ounces salt 
Make a straight dough; take the ferment, sugar and salt and work 
in a part of the flour to make a thin batter; let it stand for about 
twenty minutes in a warm place ; warm the milk and add it with the 
lard to the batter and make a medium dough rather tight; let it 
come up once, then work it over ; let it come up half, and mold into 
loaves. Bake in a good solid heat of 350 F. 

No. 3. — This is a recipe for a straight dough potato bread, 
without lard : Two pails of water, half a peck potatoes, six ounces 
of yeast, twelve ounces of sugar and one pound of salt. Boil well- 
washed potatoes, mash and strain through the colander, add water 
to make up two ten-quart pails at about 85 degrees Fahr. ; make a 
medium firm dough and let it come up well which will take four 
to five hours, work over. Give one more hour, then mould and 
pan as usual. Give only medium proof in the pan to make a solid 
loaf. 

COLUMBIA BREAD. 

"Columbia" Bread became well known in 1893, during the 
Columbian Exposition. It had a good sale for some years, but did 
not stay in favor with the public. It was very white and fine- 
grained, but lacked flavor. The bread is machine-mixed and made 
with a very old sponge, then the dough is run through the brake 
or rollers about twenty times, and molded and panned at once. 
When the bread is molded up and has a little proof it is cut over 
five times, proved and baked in steam. 



Home-Made Breads. 2% 

This is the recipe for it: Three pails water, V/2 pounds com- 
pressed yeast, 1 pound 14 ounces salt, 3 pounds sugar, 2>Va pounds 
lard. Set the sponge with two pails of water and the yeast. Do 
not have it too slack; let it get the second drop; put on the other 
sail of water, the sugar, salt and lard; make a firm dough; let it 
come on for fifteen minutes; run through the rollers twenty times; 
scale and mold and pan at once. Cut five times and let it prove, 
and then bake in steam. 

SNOWFLAKE BREAD. 

"Snowflake" bread is practically the same as the "Columbia," 
the difference is chiefly a difference in name. It is also termed 
"Choice" bread. Bakers who have no machinery can use hand- 
rollers which are not very expensive. They can be fastened to the 
bench with clamps, and can be taken off after using. They are 
made in different sizes. Here is one recipe: Three pails water; 
twelve ounces yeast; eighteen ounces salt; three pounds sugar; 
three pounds lard. 

A good snowflake bread should have a fine white texture and 
close grain. A good flavor can be had by using a very slack sponge, 
but give it the second drop and take the dough young. Set a two- 
pail sponge (10-quart pail) with the yeast when it reaches the sec- 
ond drop, put on one pail water, salt, sugar and lard; make a med- 
ium dough and work it smooth; run it through the rollers twenty 
times; scale and mould without giving the dough much time to 
prove in the trough. When the loaves are all panned, cut and 
set to prove. Give not quite full proof and bake in a moderate heat. 
When turning on steam give only enough to have the cut come 
up smooth ; then finish baking without steam. 

SNOWFLAKE BREAD WITH BUTTERMILK. 

One pail of water; one pail buttermilk; six ounces yeast; 
twelve ounces sugar; twelve ounces salt; one pound lard. Set a 
medium firm sponge ; let it come to the first drop ; put on the butter- 
milk, sugar, salt and lard, and make a smooth dough ; let it come 
up half; run through the rollers from ten to fifteen times; scale 
and mould in pans; prove and bake in 350 degrees Fahrenheit. 
While the first snowflake bread is baked in long pans and cut when 
it is moulded, the buttermilk bread is baked in the square box mould 
and also under cover like the cream breads, and without steam. 



24 Bakers' Bread. 

SNOWFLAKE BREAD SANDWICH LOAF. 

Set a warm sponge with two pails of water and eight ounces 
of yeast; let get the second drop. The sponge may be set in the 
evening and taken in the morning, or in about twelve hours. For 
doughing add on the sponge one more pail of water, twenty-four 
ounces of salt, and the same amount of sugar, two pounds of lard. 
Make a firm dough and run through the roller fifteen to twenty 
times; scale, mould and pan at once. Give medium proof and 
bake in about 325 degrees Fah. This bread if baked under cover 
or in Pullman pans makes an excellent sandwich loaf. 

NEW ENGLAND BREAD. 

This bread should come under the "home-made" breads, 
but it is better known as the New England bread. In former 
years larger quantities of cornmeal were used in this bread 
than now, and it made a very heavy loaf. At the present 
time only half of the amount is used in the same batch. The 
scalded cornmeal increases the moisture and makes the bread 
keep longer than the average wheat breads, without any shortening. 
One pail of water (twelve quarts), three ounces of yeast, 
eight ounces salt, three pounds white cornmeal, four ounces 
sugar. Make a sponge with six quarts of water as usual; give 
it a good drop; scald the cornmeal with two quarts of boiling 
water; add the sugar and salt; thin the cornmeal with the 
remaining four quarts of water, and pass through a sieve onto 
the sponge. Break the sponge down fine and with more flour 
make a smooth dough, not too stiff. Let the dough come up 
once, scale and mould into loaves; give three quarter proof 
and bake in a good heat. Both round and square tins are 
used for this kind of bread. 

This bread is known in the South under the name of 
"mush bread." The process is the same, only a larger quantity 
of scalded cornmeal is used in it. 

NEW ENGLAND BREAD WITH FERMENT. 

Set a medium firm sponge with one pail of potato ferment; 
give the sponge a good drop, and put on the sponge one pail 
of water, three pounds of scalded cornmeal, one pound of lard, 
one-half pound of sugar, one-half pound of salt. Make rather 
slack dough, but work it well; let it come up only once, then 
scale and mould in pans, give three-quarters proof, and bake in 
a good beat. 



Home-Made Breads. 25 

NEW ENGLAND BREAD WITH STRAIGHT DOUGH. 

Two gallons water ; one gallon milk ; eight ounces of yeast ; one 
pound lard ; six ounces of sugar ; eight ounces of salt ; six pounds ot 
cornmeal mush. Make a medium dough with the ingredients, 
set at 75 degrees Fah. ; let it prove in the same temperature for four 
hours; work it over and let it come up about half; mould up in 
pans ; give three-quarters proof, and bake in 325 degrees Fah. 

NEW ENGLAND BREAD WITH SPONGE ( HOME-MADE BREAD). 

Three gallons water ; three ounces of yeast ; eight ounces of salt ; 
six ounces of lard; eight ounces of sugar; one and a half pounds 
white cornmeal. Scald the cornmeal and make it into a soft mush. 
Set sponge with two gallons of the water and yeast medium firm, at 
75 degrees Fah. When the sponge is ready put on the other water 
at the same temperature; add the cornmeal, sugar, salt and lard; 
work the dough well; let it come up and work it over; give it a 
little time to come on again; scale and mould into loaves; give 
medium proof, and bake in a good heat. 



OTHER PAN BREADS. 

A variety of breads are often made out of one sponge. The 
water, sugar and lard are added after the sponge is broken up and 
so many dippers or pails are taken out for each kind. More sugar 
and shortening is added for the richer breads. In this manner 
graham bread, rye, Vienna and other hearth and pan breads can 
be made in separate mixtures out of one sponge. 

PAN BREADS WITH FERMENT. 

For the sponge take one ten quart pail of good strong 
ferment and two pails of water. For the dough take three 
pails of water, three pounds of sugar, two pounds and ten 
ounces of salt, two and one half pounds of lard. Set an 
eight hour sponge at seventy-five degrees F., and have the 
shop at the same temperature. The sponge will have the 
second drop at the given temperature. Put on the sugar, salt 
and lard, and break up the sponge; take out for the different 
breads. Let the dough come up for one hour and scale and 
mould up in loaves, prove and bake. 



26 Bakers' Bread. 

PAN BREAD WITH COMPRESSED YEAST SPONGE 

Two pails water, five ounces yeast, one pound salt, one- 
half pound sugar, one half pound lard. Set the sponge at 
eighty-five degrees F., with one pail of water and the yeast: 
give it a good drop, and add one pail of water with the salt, 
sugar and lard at seventy-five degrees, and mix the dough well. 
Let it come up twice, scale and mould in pans; give good 
proof, and bake in 350 degrees F. 

POTATO BREAD. 

Five ounces yeast, one half pail milk, one half pail water, 
eight ounces salt, eight ounces sugar, eight ounces lard or but- 
ter, one-half peck of boiled and mashed potatoes. Dissolve 
the yeast in one quart of water and make a batter with the 
sugar and some flour; let it stand for fifteen minutes and add 
the other water; make into a medium sponge, let it come to 
the drop. Thin up the potatoes with the milk; add the salt 
and lard, and pass on the sponge; mix all well together, and 
with more flour make a medium firm dough; let it come on; 
scale and mould up very smooth; pan and bake in a baking 
heat of 350 degrees F. 

CREAM BREADS, OR MILK BREAD. 

There are several kinds of cream breads and there is no diffi- 
culty for a baker to make a first class cream loaf out of any kind 
of milk bread or Vienna dough. The ordinary roll dough can also 
be used for this kind of bread. The loaves are baked in the regular 
square cream bread pans, made with a cover to fit for one and two 
pound loaves. They are also known as Cream Toast Bread, and are 
used in many restaurants for toast only, making a square slice which 
requires no trimming, having a thin crust. One other kind, known 
as the Vienna Cream loaf, is baked in round corrugated pans, of 
four inches in diameter and from ten to twelve inches long. The 
loaves weigh about one pound and eight ounces. 

This bread has a good sale as a family bread. It makes nice 
round sandwiches for picnics and parties. There is another way 
of making cream breads which does not require a special pan and is 
practiced in many bakeries. For this the regular pans can be used 
although it is best to have the pans of a rather large size. The 
loaf is molded up smooth like the regular pan loaf and placed on flat 
roll pans, smooth side up, some distance apart; about six to eight 



Home-Made Breads, 2J 

loaves on one pan. They are covered with the regular baking tins 
and given a little proof. The tins are lifted and the loaves are cut 
either crosswise or in ribs like the corrugated loaves, the tins are 
replaced, the loaves given nearly full proof and baked in a medium 
hot oven. If a little more color is required the covers are taken 
off when almost done, and the baking is finished without them. 

Make a cornstarch wash, dissolving two ounces cornstarch in a 
little cold water and stir this in one quart of boiling water; wash 
the bread right at the oven door, put the loaves back in the oven 
for a moment, just enough for the wash to dry. This gives the bread 
a nice finish. 

A variety of breads can be made by using round covers, or 
adding more sugar and lard, also eggs, currants and sultana raisins. 

I give a number of recipes for Cream Bread: 

No. i. — Five quarts milk, 5 quarts water, 10 ounces sugar, 1 
pound lard, 8 ounces yeast, 3 ounces salt. Make a thin batter with 
the yeast, warm water and flour. Set to rise for twenty minutes; 
put on the remaining water and milk; add the sugar, salt and lard. 
Make a fine smooth dough; let it prove up well; work over and 
make into loaves and set on pans; cover; let them prove further, 
and cut the loaves. Cover again and finish proving and bake. Be- 
fore the loaves are quite done take off the covers and finish baking 
to give a nice color. 

No. 2. — One pail of water, 1 pound of milk powder, 1 pound of 
lard, 10 ounces sugar, 6 ounces yeast, 8 ounces salt. Set a slack 
sponge with six quarts of water and the yeast. Dissolve the milk 
powder in the other four quarts of water and add sugar and salt. 
Put this on the sponge; when it gets the first drop break up the 
sponge very fine, add the lard and make a medium firm dough. Let 
it come up well and work down again ; let it come up again to about 
half; scale and mold in pans; prove and bake. 

No. 3. — Six quarts milk, 6 quarts water, 6 ounces compressed 
yeast, 1-2 pound sugar, 6 ounces salt, 1 1-2 pounds lard. Dissolve 
the yeast, put in the sugar and salt, rub the lard in the flour and 
set the dough at 8o° F.; have the bakeshop about 75 F. Make 
a nice smooth dough ; mix the dough well and pen it up close in the 
trough; let it come up full and work it over; let it come up again 
and work down once more; then scale and mould back; form in 
loaves; prove and bake in a moderate oven. 

Some other cream or milk breads are made with a tight dough, 
and the dough is run through the rollers like the Snow Flake bread 



28 Bakers* Bread. 

to get a fine grain and cut like the other cream breads. The only 
difference between cream and milk breads is in the treatment of 
the doughs; most all the cream breads are put through the rollers 
before molding, and baked in closed pans and under cover; this 
makes a thin crusted bread. The average milk bread is made from 
the same mixture but baked in open pans which produces a thicker 
crust. 

PULLMAN BREAD. 

This bread is called Pullman bread because it is used to a 
large extent on the dining cars and at many depots for sandwiches. 
The Pullman pan is made in single and double pans with a tight- 
fitting cover. The loaves weigh about two pounds and four ounces 
in the dough, and the size of the pans is ten inches long, and four 
and one-half inches square. This size of pan makes a large square 
slice which is especially suited for sandwiches. A good Vienna 
dough, and also the cream bread and snowflake mixtures, can be 
used for this. The dough should be medium tight and go through 
the rollers from ten to twelve times. 

One pail of water, five ounces of yeast, two pounds of lard, 
one and a half pounds of sugar, seven ounces of salt. Dissolve the 
yeast in one quart of warm water and add sufficient flour to make 
a soft batter, let the batter stand in a warm place for about twenty 
minutes, then add the pail of water (at 80 to 85 degrees Fahr.) also 
the sugar and salt and more flour, then add the lard and make the 
dough medium firm. Let it come up and cut over twice, put through 
the rollers twelve times and scale, pan and prove; bake in medium 
heat of 350 degrees Fahr. 



Hearth Baked Breads. 



It is an established fact that breads baked on the hearth, on 
a stone oven sole, have a better flavor and are superior to 
breads baked on a metal surface or in tins. I think a better 
home made bread can be made by baking it on the hearth, either 
as a single loaf with a full crust, or as a double loaf like the 
Cottage and Irish bread. This class of hearth baked breads 
require a firmer dough and less proof and also a slacker oven 
than the pan baked breads. They are baked without steam 
and are not washed before or after baking. 

The different breads can be made out of any of the home 
made doughs, and also out of the Vienna dough, straight or with 
a sponge, but the doughs should be made firmer. 

COTTAGE BREAD AND SPLIT BREAD. 

One pail ferment; one pail water; one pound lard; twelve 
ounces sugar; twelve ounces salt. Set a sponge with ferment 
and take it at the first drop; put on the water, sugar, salt and 
lard, and make a firm dough. Let it come up and work over, 
then scale and mold back. In New York, where the cottage 
loaf is called "High Round," the loaves are scaled in two pieces 
and at first are moulded round on the bench, and then they are 
moulded the second time and both pieces are pressed together, 
dusted with flour and set two by two in a long narrow box, 
which is laid out with cloth. The cloth is drawn up between 
each two, and they are set to prove. The oven is lined on the 
sides with wood. The bread is put in, two loaves at one time, 
close together, in a square shape. This requires practice and 
dexterity. When the loaves are all in the oven other pieces of 
wood are put in front of it to keep it in shape till baked. 

The split loaves are made in two shapes. The Irish split 
loaves are moulded in the shape of a pan loaf, then they are 
dusted with flour and pressed long ways with a rolling-pin, like 
the split rolls set with the split down in the box; the cloth is 

(29) 



30 Bakers* Bread. 

pinched up between the loaves and they are set to prove. The 
loaves are put in the oven like the cottage loaves, and are set 
close together, ends and sides touching each other. The split 
loaves, which are known as the French split, can be made out of 
the same dough; they are moulded at first in the shape of the 
Vienna loaf, set on the bench and given a little proof, then they 
are pressed in with the rolling-pin. Bakers generally use only 
flour, but for beginners I would advise to grease the split, and 
use no flour; this would insure a better split. Set the loaves 
split side down, draw up the cloths between the loaves, and 
give three quarter proof. Bake the loaves like the French 
bread, single, without their touching each other. All the hearth 
baked breads should be brushed off at the bottom, after they are 
baked, to remove any ashes or cinders which may have adhered 
to them in the oven. 

COTTAGE BREAD WITH COMPRESSED YEAST. 

One pail water; four ounces of yeast; five quarts milk; one 
half pound sugar; one half pound lard; six ounces salt. Set a 
slack sponge with the water and yeast as usual; when the 
sponge reaches the drop, add the milk, sugar, salt and lard. 
Make the dough medium firm; let it come up and work over; 
let it spring on again; then scale and mould into loaves; prove 
and bake. By using more yeast in this recipe, it can be used 
for a straight dough. In this case work in the ingredients at 
once. 

FRENCH SPLIT BREAD. 

Make a straight dough, rather firm, with one pail of ferment 
and six ounces of salt; use no sugar or lard; let the dough 
come up well and work over; give it a start; then scale and 
mould on the bench; form into long loaves, in Vienna shape, 
split, set in cloths, prove and bake. 

A very nice French split is made in some Chicago bakeries 
out of a Vienna mixture in which half milk is used. 

DUTCH BREAD. 

The Dutch loaves are made out of a good solid dough; it 
can be made out of any of the straight or sponge doughs; it 
should be well baked, and have a close grain and a good flavor. 
While in some localities it is a single round loaf baked on the 
hearth, in other places it is an oval flat loaf. It is also baked in 
a single pan as the round box loaves. 



Hearth-Baked Breads. 31 

IRISH BREAD. 

The Irish bread is also a bottom bread, and in Chicago 
bakeries a good rich dough is used for it. It is baked in pairs; 
two one pound loaves are set together, so they touch each 
other slightly, and when put in the oven the loaves touch the 
other loaves on the ends, but not on the sides. 

IRISH BREAD WITH STRAIGHT DOUGH. 

One pail water; five ounces yeast; one pound of sugar; one 
pound of lard; six ounces of salt. Make a straight dough as 
usual with the ingredients given. Make it medium firm; let it 
come up and work over; let it come half, scale and mould into 
loaves; set in the box in cloths; dust well with flour; bake with- 
out washing, as directed in a slow heat of 325 degrees Fah. 

POTATO BREAD. 

One pail of water; six pounds of boiled and mashed pota- 
toes; one half pound sugar; one half pound lard; four ounces 
yeast; six ounces salt. This bread can be made straight as well 
as with a sponge, only more yeast should be used for a straight 
dough. The potatoes can be boiled with the jackets on, and 
peeled and mashed or grated afterwards, or can be peeled before 
boiling. Set a sponge with half the water and the yeast and 
flour, not too slack. When it is ready, put on the potatoes the 
other half of the water, sugar, lard, and salt; make a solid 
dough; let it prove up once and work over; let come on, and 
scale and mould into round loaves; mould up very smooth, set 
in boxes which are dusted with flour, or on cloths; dust the 
loaves also on top with flour; give good proof and bake single 
on the hearth without washing, in a baking heat of 325 F. 

This bread can be made from a larger, broken down sponge, 
and adding potatoes and shortening for doughing. 

POTATO BREAD WITH POTATO FLOUR. 

For one pail of straight or sponge dough use from one to 
two pounds of potato flour. The potato flour should be added 
to the dough in form of starch; dissolve the potato flour in cold 
water, and add gradually enough boiling water, stirring con- 
stantly to form a soft paste without lumps; cool and add to the 
dough. 

TWIST BREAD. 

The Twist should be classed with the Vienna breads. It is 
made out of the Vienna dough, which is best adapted for this 



32 Bakers' Bread. 

bread. The Vienna and Bohemian bakers can make this bread 
more perfectly and in more shapes than any other bakers. It is 
baked in steam, like the Vienna; washed before baking, with and 
without poppy seed sprinkled on the top. It is made in double 
and single braids and also as a short Vienna loaf with a single 
strand of dough on the top. The loaves weigh from one half 
to two pounds, and require a cool treatment in the dough. The 
twists are proved and then set in a cool place to stiffen up; be- 
fore baking they are set in cloths like the Vienna breads, 

No. i. — Two pails of water; ten ounces of yeast; one pail of 
milk; one pound of sugar; one pound of lard; one pound of salt. 
Set a slack sponge with two pails of water, the yeast and a 
strong flour. Give the sponge a good drop; add the milk, sugar, 
lard and salt; make a firm dough; let it come up well and work 
over; let it come on and scale and mould into loaves; prove and 
bake as directed. 

No. 2. — One pail half water and half milk; one pound sugar; 
one and one half pounds lard; six ounces of yeast; six ounces 
salt. Make a good straight dough, rather light; let it come up 
twice and work over; scale and make into twist as directed. 
This mixture can be made still richer, for fancy twist, by the 
addition of eggs and butter. The richer breads of this class are 
baked on pans washed with egg wash, and often sprinkled with 
chopped almonds and iced over with water icing. 



Special Breads. 



GRAHAM AND WHOLE WHEAT. 

Many of the graham and whole wheat flours are made out of 
the poorer grades of wheat, and often the best part of the wheat 
is taken out by the millers; for this reason it is preferable to 
use from one third to one half of a good grade of patent flour 
with it to make good bread. All dark flours which contain more 
or less bran prove more rapidly than the white flours; they re- 
quire less yeast, and also less proof in baking. The addition of 
molasses to some of these breads also accelerates the proving. 
Some graham or brown breads are made without yeast, baking 
powder or soda, and cream of tartar is used for raising, also 
buttermilk or sour milk and soda, soda and molasses, and also 
half sponge and soda and molasses, which makes a very nice 
and moist loaf. If soda is used, it can be used only with sour 
milk or with molasses which contains acid, and in the propor- 
tions of half an ounce to the quart of molasses or sour milk. 
Where only small quantities are made, a part of a broken-up 
wheat flour sponge can be used, some molasses added and 
graham flour used for doughing. When a separate sponge is 
used, take half patent and half graham flour, or all patent flour 
for sponge, and all graham flour for doughing. Molasses is 
used in the proportion of one quart to the ten quart pail; while 
the shortening is optional, the addition of lard makes a shorter 
crust. 

GRAHAM BREAD. 

One pail water; two ounces yeast; one half pound salt; one 
quart molasses; one pound of lard. Set the sponge as usual 
with half of the liquid and the yeast; use half graham and half 
patent flour; let it come to the drop; put on the other part of 
the water, salt, molasses and lard, and with more graham flour 
make a medium dough rather slack; let it come up half and 
work over, scale and pan. Give about three quarter proof and 
bake in a medium heat of 350 degrees R; wash with water or 
brush with butter or lard after baking. 

(33) 



34 Bakers' Bread. 

GRAHAM BREAD WITH STRAIGHT DOUGH. 

One pail water; four ounces yeast; one pound lard; one 
quart molasses; eight ounces salt. Mix one third of wheat flour 
and two thirds of graham flour; rub in the lard; dissolve the 
yeast in the water; add the molasses and salt; make a medium 
dough, set at a temperature of 65 to 70 degrees F. Let it come 
up but not drop; work over; then scale, mould in pan, prove and 
bake in a medium heat. 

GRAHAM BREAD WITH SODA AND SPONGE. 

Take one pail of broken-up sponge, with the salt in it, add 
three pints of molasses, and one ounce of soda dissolved in 
water; with more graham flour make a very slack dough. When 
half mixed add one pound of soft lard and work the dough 
very smooth. Fill in pans without moulding, set to prove, give 
good half proof and bake in 350 degrees F. This dough should 
be made like a drop cake batter, and if sour milk is used in this 
mixture more soda should be used. 

WHOLE WHEAT BREAD. 

The whole wheat bread, or entire wheat, also the gluten 
bread, often called "Health Bread," is made like the graham 
bread, but less sweetening is used, and in some instances, when 
used for dietetic purposes, both shortening and sweetening are 
left out altogether. 

One pail of water or half milk and water; four ounces of 
yeast; one half pound of salt; one pound of lard; one pint of 
molasses. Work the dough just like graham and give the same 
proof. If a lighter color is preferred, use sugar in place of 
molasses, one pound to the pail of dough. 

WHOLE WHEAT BREAD WITH POTATOES. 

One gallon half milk and half water; two ounces of yeast; 
two ounces of salt; eight ounces of sugar; eight ounces of 
lard; one pound of boiled and mashed potatoes. Grade or mash 
the potatoes; use the water the potatoes are boiled in and half 
milk to make a gallon; dissolve the yeast, add sugar and salt, 
also the lard, and make a straight dough rather slack. Let it 
come up once, then scale and mould in pans, prove and bake in 
a good heat; wash over when done. 



Special Breads. 35 

BROWN BREADS. 

ELECTRIC BROWN BREAD. 

Twelve pounds of graham flour; twelve pounds of wheat 
flour; one gallon of milk; one gallon of water; one pound of lard; 
eight ounces of salt; one quart of molasses; one ounce of soda; 
one pound of baking powder. Rub the lard in one part of the flour, 
and mix the baking powder in the other part; mix together 
and form a bay in the center of the flour. Dissolve the soda in 
the water, also the salt, add the molasses and milk, and make a 
nice smooth dough rather slack. Scale and pan at once; set in 
a warm prover, let it come up half, and bake in a medium heat. 
Brush over with water or lard after baking. 

BOSTON BROWN BREAD. 

Boston brown bread is made in several ways. It is raised 
with yeast and also with soda and baking powder. The quantity 
of molasses also varies very much, which makes a difference in 
the quality. Lard or other shortening is not used in this bread. 
It can be baked or steamed. If baked, the baking should be 
done in a cool oven of about 200 to 250 degrees F. It is best 
to set the moulds in a pan with about one to two inches of 
water in it, to prevent browning too much on the bottom. In 
some bakeries a tin box is used, a little higher than the brown 
bread moulds, large enough to hold a dozen moulds, with a 
tight fitting cover. The bread is set in, the box filled half full 
with boiling water, the cover put on, and put in the bake oven 
and the bread is steam-baked for three hours. About the time 
the water is boiled off the bread is done. 

YEAST RAISED BROWN BREAD. 

Two pounds rye; one quart molasses; two pounds cornmeal; 
three ounces salt; two pounds graham flour; two pounds wheat 
flour; two ounces yeast. Make a soft sponge with the rye flour, 
and one quart luke warm water, scald the cornmeal with one 
quart of boiling water; let cool, and when the sponge is ready 
mix in the molasses and salt and the other flour; use a little 
milk and mix into a soft dough; divide into loaves. This mix- 
ture makes about one dozen. Grease the molds, put in and let 
rise to three quarter proof; bake or steam for three hours. 



36 Bakers' Bread. 

BOSTON BROWN BREAD WITH SODA. 

One pound rye; two pounds cornmeal; one pound graham; 
one quart molasses; one pound wheat flour; three pints milk; 
two ounces salt; one ounce soda. Mix the flours together, dis- 
solve the soda in the milk, make a bay and mix all the ingredi- 
ents into a soft batter like drop cake, add more milk if needed, 
fill in greased moulds, and bake or steam for three hours. 

BOSTON BROWN BREAD WITH BAKING POWDER, 

Two pounds cornmeal; one pound rye; one pound wheat 
flour; one pound graham; two ounces salt; one pint molasses; 
three ounces baking powder. Scald about half of the cornmeal 
and let it cool. Mix the baking powder in the other flour, put 
in salt and molasses, and with milk or water mix into a slack 
batter; fill in well greased molds and steam or bake for three 
hours. 

Lately there have come into the market some ready-made 
self-raising brown bread flours. The flour is mixed with even 
quantities of milk or water and molasses into a soft batter like 
the other brown breads, and steamed as usual. Stale cake 
crumbs can be used up in brown breads. Raisins and currants 
may be added for variety. 



HEALTH BREADS. 

One of the vegetarian fads is the nut breads. Gluten flour and 
whole wheat flours, combined with ground nut meats, make an ideal 
loaf, very nutritious and of fine flavor. Peanuts, walnuts and all 
the other varieties are used for these breads. Walnuts, and hickory 
nuts are best used raw, while a better flavor is obtained of peanuts if 
they are slightly roasted. The nuts should be grated or chopped very 
fine ; if crushed in a mortar or passed through rollers the nuts seem 
to lose some of the oil or fat which they contain, and this causes loss 
of flavor. 

NUT HEALTH BREAD. 

Four pounds of gluten flour or whole wheat flour; two pounds 
patent flour ; three ounces yeast ; one pound of walnut meat, chopped 
fine ; one-half pound of cocoanut butter ; four ounces sugar ; one 
ounce salt; one quart water; one quart milk. Set a very slack 
sponge with one quart water; yeast and the patent flour. When the 



Special Breads. 37 

sponge is ready add the sugar, salt and milk, and work into a 
medium dough with the gluten flour. Use more water or milk if 
required to make a nice, smooth dough. Add the softened cocoanut 
butter and the nut meats. Let the dough come up and work over, 
give a little time to come on again, scale and mould into loaves, bake 
in oval or in the ordinary bread tins in a moderate heat. 

NUT BREAD, NO. 2. 

Six pounds of entire wheat flour; two pounds patent flour; two 
ounces salt ; one pint New Orleans molasses ; three quarts of milk ; 
two ounces of cream of tartar; one and one-quarter ounce soda. 
The peanuts should be roasted and the brown skin rubbed off in a 
sieve, or blanched like almonds in hot water, dried and roasted, 
ground or chopped fine. Sift the cream of tartar in the patent flour, 
mix both flours and the nuts together, dissolve the soda in the milk, 
make a bay in the center of the flour, put in the molasses, salt and 
milk, and mix into a slack dough ; mould into loaves, put in long nar- 
row pans, and bake in a good heat of 350 degrees. 

The same mixture may be raised with yeast, leaving the patent 
flour out, take four pounds of white sponge, and thin up with milk 
and work in the entire wheat flour and nut meat. Add one quarter 
of an ounce of soda to the milk, to balance the acid in the molasses, 
and, of course, leave out the cream of tartar and the other soda. 
Prove and bake like the other breads. 

OATEN BREADS. 

Bread from oatmeal can be made after the same methods as the 
graham breads, by adding a stronger patent flour. Oatmeal deterior- 
ates with age, and acquires a bitter taste when it gets old. The meal 
should be finely ground for this purpose. Some bakers prefer scald- 
ing the meal to make it mellow. The rolled oats have also been 
tried with success by soaking them some time before using. Like the 
other breads which contain bran, it ferments much quicker than the 
white bread, and for this reason a short fermentation gives the best 
results in making this bread. A much better flavor is obtained by 
using sugar or glucose instead of molasses, and if a part of the meal 
is scalded it makes a very moist loaf. Too much scalding is apt ?o 
make it heavy; and the fine ground meal is better used without 
scalding. 

OATEN BREAD, NO. I. 

Four pounds patent flour; four pounds graham hour; tour 
pounds oatmeal; two quarts water; two quarts milk; one-half 



38 Bakers' Bread. 

pound glucose or eight ounces sugar ; eight ounces lard ; two ounces 
salt; two ounces yeast. Dissolve the yeast in the water, add the 
glucose, and with the patent flour make a slack sponge. When the 
sponge is ready, add the milk and salt, also the lard; work in the 
graham and oatmeal and make a slack dough; add more milk or 
water if required. Set away to prove up once and work over; scale 
and mould into loaves; pan and give only medium proof. Bake in 
a solid heat of 350 degrees. Brush over with butter or lard when 
done. 

OATEN BREAD, NO. 2. 

Take ten pounds of white bread sponge; one quart milk; four 
ounces sugar; four ounces lard; four pounds of oatmeal; one and 
one-half ounce salt. Work the ingredients into the sponge to make 
a smooth dough. Let it come up once ; scale and mould ; prove and 
bake like the other breads. 



CORN BREADS. 

A variety of breads are made in the Southern states in which the 
cornmeal is used in the form of mush; that is, the meal is scalded 
with boiling water. These breads should be made of a medium 
slack dough, treated cool and not given much proof in baking. The 
mush makes the bread very moist, but it should not be sticky in 
cutting, which happens if the dough is too slack, or it is not baked 
enough. The bread is best if it is baked in a pan with a cover on, 
and in a medium heated oven. 

NEW ORLEANS CORN BREAD, YEAST-RAISED. 

One pound white cornmeal; four ounces lard; three pounds 
patent flour; one ounce yeast; two ounces molasses; one-half ounce 
salt. Set a warm sponge with one pint of water, molasses and yeast 
and a part of the white flour. Scald the meal with one pint of boil- 
ing water into mush, and mix in the lard and salt ; let cool, and when 
the sponge is ready put the mush and one pint of milk or water 
on to it; make a medium dough; set it to rise; let it come up and 
work over ; scale ; mould into loaves ; pan and give good half proof. 
Bake in medium heat. 

BUTTERMILK CORN BREAD. 

Two pounds white cornmeal; six ounces lard; two pounds 
white flour; one-half cup molasses; one-half ounce salt, one quart 
of buttermilk ; four eggs ; one ounce of soda. Scald half of the 



Special Breads. 39 

cornmeal with one pint of boiling water; add the lard; dissolve the 
soda in some water; thin up the scalded meal with the buttermilk; 
add the eggs and flour, and make a slack dough like a tea biscuit 
mixture ; shape into loaves. Set in pans and bake in a good heat. 

The foregoing breads should not be confounded with the regular 
family cornbread of the Southern states, which is not sold very often 
in bakeries, because it is good only when fresh made and while warm. 
I believe it could be made successful and find a ready sale in bakeries 
which have a lunch trade, or are connected with restaurants. This 
cornbread is delicious if eaten fresh, and everybody likes it. It can 
be kept in a good condition in a moist heater for several hours and 
sold with a good profit. 

This cornbread is made different from the yeast-raised breads 
named before, it contains no wheat flour and no sugar or other 
sweetening, it is made from cornmeal only. It is often made with 
sour milk and soda, and also with sweet milk and baking powder. 
The sour milk is considered to make the best flavored bread. The 
sweet milk and baking powder process is the most reliable to obtain 
uniform results The white cornmeal is the best, because the yellow 
meal often has got a bitter taste and is not liked for this bread. 
The Southern people prefer the country-ground meal, which is very 
coarse ground, with lots of bran in it, which is sifted out before 
using. Beside the country meal are two other grades of meal which 
are used, the plain medium-ground meal, and a very fine ground 
meal called cream meal. 

All the different kinds may be used with success. The coarse 
meal requires more scalding than the fine ground meals, and this 
matter needs the most attention to make this bread. Cornmeal 
absorbs much water, and the mixture must be made very soft — as 
thin as soup — and the baking should be done in a brisk heat. In- 
sufficient scalding, slack heat and a too thick batter causes the bread 
to crack on the top instead of having a smooth crust. The cornbread 
bakes best in small square pans, about eight to ten inches square 
and with a rim of one and one half inches high. Deep-layer cake 
tins, and deep custard pie tins, are also very convenient for this 
bread. By baking the bread in this way it can be cut in quarters or 
sold whole. 

SOUTHERN FAMILY CORN BREAD. 

Four pounds white cornmeal; two quarts boiling water; three 
pints milk or water; twelve ounces lard; one-half ounce salt; eight 
eggs; four teaspoons baking powder. Put the meal into a dishpan 



40 Bakers Bread. 

or in the mixing bowl; make a bay on one side; take the boiling 
water and scald about half of the meal; put on the lard and mix 
in; also the salt and set aside to cool; when the mush is about luke- 
warm thin it up with the milk; add the baking powder the last 
thing, and beat it up well. Take a dipper and fill the mixture in the 
well-greased pans; put in the hottest place in the oven at first, till 
the top is formed and baking up even, then move to a cooler place to 
finish baking. Cut each pan in quarters and split each piece through 
the center while hot and spread fresh butter between. You will have 
a cornbread fit for a king. 



MISCELLANEOUS. 

RICE BREAD. 

Rice flour is used in bread in the same manner as the cornmeal ; 
the flour should be not only scalded, it should be boiled into a starch. 
Wet the flour with cold water into a paste and thin up with boiling 
water, then return to the stove and boil for a minute to get clear. If 
whole rice is used, take the rice and boil it till soft, then strain off 
the water and rub through a sieve before using. For the shop there 
is a better way and more convenient, that is to bake the rice; put 
one pound of rice in a pan which holds about one gallon of water, 
fill the pan nearly full of water, cover and set in one corner of the 
oven. The rice will soften and get ready to pass through a sieve 
in about one hour. One formula is given here: 

Two quarts water; 2 ounces yeast; 3 pints milk; 2 ounces salt; 
4 ounces sugar; 4 ounces lard; 1 pound of rice flour or whole rice. 
Set a sponge .with the water, yeast and some strong flour; prepare 
the rice and when the sponge is ready pass the rice on the sponge 
through a sieve; add the milk, salt, sugar and lard, and with more 
flour make a medium dough; let it come up and work over, let it 
come on a little scale, pan and prove, and bake like the other breads 

FANCY FRUIT BREAD. 

Two quarts of milk ; 3 ounces of yeast ; 1 pound butter ; 1 pound 
sugar; 5 whole eggs; 5 yolks; 1 pound sultana raisins; ]/ 2 pound 
chopped almonds; Y 2 pound citron; 1 ounce salt; lemon extract; 
mace. Set a warm slack sponge with the milk, yeast and some 
patent flour. When the sponge is ready add the sugar, butter, eggs, 
salt and flour. Work this in the sponge with more flour and add 



Special Breads. 41 

the fruit. Let it prove up once; work it over and scale and mould 
in bread or cake tins. Prove and bake in a medium heat. Ice with 
a vanilla icing. The loaves may also be washed before baking with 
an egg wash and sprinkled with almonds. 

From the same mixture other fancy breads may be made by 
leaving out the fruit and adding seeds to make a fancy seed bread 
or cake. 

SULTANA (SEEDLESS RAISIN ) BREAD. 

One quart milk; 2 ounces yeast; 4 pounds flour; J4 lb- butter; 
Y 2 pound sugar; y 2 ounce salt; 5 eggs; 1 pound sultanas, or seedless 
raisins. Set a sponge with the milk, yeast and some flour; rub the 
sugar, butter and eggs to a cream, and add to the sponge. When 
ready, and with more flour make a medium dough and work in the 
fruit. Let it prove up once and scale into pieces to sell at five or 
ten cents each ; put in square or oval tins ; give good proof and bake 
to a nice brown. Currants or nuts may be used and almonds 
sprinkled in the tins before baking. Other fancy breads may be 
made from plain bun and cake doughs, baked plain round on pans, 
also in different shaped tins. 

Another way is to bake them under covers like the cream breads 
and score the tops in fancy pattern. The best grades are made rich, 
like the French brioche mixtures, while the ordinary kinds may be 
made from plain bread doughs with a small addition of fruit and 
shortening. 

CHEAP FRUIT BREAD. 

Twenty-five pounds bread dough; 12 ozs. lard; 12 ozs. sugar; 3 
pounds of raisins. Work the ingredients into the dough as usual, 
and make up into loaves. Changes may be made by using currants 
or sultanas, and adding eggs or some egg color, a cheap grade of 
California raisins and chopped peel or cocoanut. This will also make 
a hock dough for buns and coffee cake. 

FRUIT BREAD WITH MOLASSES. 

Ten pounds roll dough; 1 pint N. O. molasses; i l / 2 pounds cur- 
rants or raisins. 

COCOANUT BREAD. 

Ten pounds sponge; 1% pounds sugar; 1 pound lard; impounds 
cocoanut. Work the ingredients into the dough or sponge, adding 
more flour to make a smooth dough. Scale in five or ten cent 



42 Bakers' Bread. 

pieces; mould round on pans or set in bread tins; wash over before 
baking, and bake in a brick oven. 

SOUTHERN FRUIT BREAD. 

Set a sponge with i gallon of water and 3 ounces of yeast; or 
bake 20 pounds of white sponge. When the sponge is ready work in 
the following ingredients: 2 quarts molasses; 1 pound lard; 3 
pounds currants or cheap raisins; 3 ounces salt; 2 ounces of allspice. 
Add more flour to make a medium dough; let it prove up once and 
work over; scale in pieces to sell at five cents each; mould round; 
set in round bread tins and let prove up half ; give a cross cut ; wash 
over and finish proving. Sprinkle on each loaf a little granulated 
sugar in the center, and bake in a medium heat. 

Another way is to divide each loaf into six pieces; mould in 
ovals and set in long bread tins, or on pans and bake so they touch 
in baking. They are sold the whole loaf for five cents and in single 
pieces for six cents. 

FRUIT BREADS WITH BAKING POWDER. 

Six pounds of white flour ; 5 ounces baking powder ; 2 quarts of 
milk and water; ]/ 2 ounce salt; 6 ounces sugar; 12 ounces butter 
and lard; 6 eggs; 1 pound of fruit; a litttle lemon extract Take 
half patent flour and half cake flour sift in the baking powder. 
Cream the butter, sugar and eggs, add 3 pints of milk and mix in 
the flour, then add the remaining pint of milk and the fruit; make 
a smooth dough; mold into loaves; put in tins and set in a warm 
prover to loosen up a little; then put in the oven and bake in a 
medium heat. 

SALT RISING BREAD. 

One of the most important points to be looked after in making 
salt-rising bread is heat. It must have heat from start to finish. 
Have a good light prover; put a small gasoline stove in the bottom 
of the prover, with tank on the outside, that will make it much 
handier, as it can be filled at any time and will be perfectly safe from 
fire. Put three ounces of fine cornmeal and one quarter teaspoonful 
of soda in a quart bowl. Put one pint of milk and half a cup of water 
in a basin and bring to a good sharp boil. Pour this on your meal 
and soda — not too much at a time, stirring well all the time, so it 
will not be lumpy; this will make a very thin batter. Now put your 



Special Breads. 43 

bowl in a box just large enough to hold it nicely. Cover it up well 
with a bag and set it in a warm (not hot) place to rise. It will 
take from twelve to fourteen hours. The oven plate is a good place 
to set it to rise ; or if your oven is enclosed set it in the sand on top 
of the oven. The heat must be just warm, but constant. When 
your yeast is light take your dishpan, put in three or four pounds 
of flour, pour your yeast on the flour, and stir in with a large spoon. 
Now add two and one-half quarts hot water (not scalding) and 
make a thick batter. Set this in the prover over the gasoline stove, 
cover it over ; keep it good and warm, but don't get it hot enough to 
scald. This will be ready in about one hour. When this sponge 
is light add three ounces salt, four ounces sugar, lard to suit, two 
and one-half quarts hot water and flour to make a firm dough. 
Cover up; set back in prover, and let it get a good start in the 
dough. This will take about twenty minutes or half hour. Throw 
out on the bench, work well and pan at once. Place in prover ; cover 
over with a cloth or bag; place a pan of hot water on the gasoline 
stove, so the bread will get steam and keep moist. This bread must 
not be proved as light as yeast bread. If overproved it will spoil 
both the grain and flavor. It should never be proved light enough 
to crack on top. The oven should bake it in twenty minutes. The 
above will make twenty-five loaves. In warm weather the same 
amount of yeast will work fifty loaves. Canaille or fine middlings 
can be used in place of cornmeal, but it does not give the same 
flavor. Care should be taken in the kind of milk you use. Milk 
from one cow is best ; that is, milk that is not mixed, or from a new 
milk cow. Now this is the arrangement I have made for working 
large batches: Have the trough you are to use lined with galvan- 
ized iron. Leave space of about three inches between the bottom 
of the trough and the galvanized iron for steam. Now take a large 
can (a lard can will do) and have the top soldered on tight; have 
an arrangement on the top of your can that you can fasten a hose 
to. Let the hose run from the can to the bottom of trough; have 
also a coupling on the bottom of the trough to fasten the hose and a 
hole through the bottom of trough for the steam to enter ; fill the can 
part full of water and set it on your stove or furnace. When this 
boils it will force steam under the sponge and dough and keep 
them warm as required. Note that less heat is required for large 
batches. 



Vienna Breads. 



To make a good Vienna bread it is necessary to have an oven 
which holds steam. Some bakers have ovens specially built for 
Vienna bread where the steam cannot escape. The steam forms a 
coat of moisture on the loaf when it is put in the oven, gives the 
dough time to expand and forms the fine glazed crust for which the 
Vienna breads are known. Good milk bread recipes will make an 
acceptable Vienna bread if given the proper treatment in the sponge 
and dough. One-third part of milk is used for Vienna bread, but 
many bakers use sugar and lard only; others leave out the milk 
during the hot months for fear of getting sour bread. 

VIENNA BREAD WITH A SHORT SPONGE 

Two gallons water, i gallon milk, 4 ounces yeast, 6 ounces salt, 
8 ounces sugar, 8 ounces lard. Dissolve the yeast in one pint of 
warm water, and with some flour make a soft batter; set aside for 
twenty minutes, and then add the two gallons of water and 
more flour to make a slack sponge; beat it up well, and let it 
get the first drop at a temperature of 75 degrees to 80 degrees 
F. ; the sponge will be ready in two hours. Put on the milk 
at the same temperature, with sugar, salt and lard, and work into a 
smooth dough, medium firm. Let the dough come up well and work 
it over; let it come on again; scale, mould and form into loaves. 
The moulded loaves are set to prove in cloth-lined boxes which are 
dusted with flour. The cloth is drawn up between the loaves to 
prevent them touching each other. The loaves should be prevented 
from getting a dry skin during the proving, because this would 
cause a dull-looking crust in baking. Give good three-quarters 
proof; put on the peel by means of a thin board on which the loaves 
are turned over from the cloth, give three slanting cuts and bake on 
the hearth. 

The oven should be filled with steam before the loaves are put 
in, and the steam should be kept at an even pressure. The shape 
of the Vienna bread is well known. It is usually made in one-pound 

(44) 



Vienna Breads. 45 

loaves. If the oven holds steam, the loaves are cut and put in 
the oven without washing, and no washing is required when the 
bread is baked. But if Vienna bread is baked without steam, it 
is cut and washed with water as it goes into the oven and with 
a thin cornstarch wash when it is baked. If a thin egg-wash is 
used before baking, the bread requires no washing when baked. 
Steam makes the best crust and produces a good bloom. 

VIENNA BREAD WITH SPONGE WITHOUT MILK. 

Three pails water, 18 ounces salt, 2 pounds of lard, 2 pounds of 
sugar, 10 ounces yeast. Set a sponge with two pails of the water 
at 8o° F. ; let it get a good drop, then add the other pail of water 
at 75 F. or 8o° F. ; put in the sugar, salt and lard and make a 
medium dough; let it come up and then scale and mould in box to 
get a little more proof; then form into loaves; set in cloths; give 
good proof; bake in a good solid heat. 

VIENNA BREAD WITHOUT SUGAR OR LARD. 

One pail water (10 quarts), 1 pail milk, 12 ounces salt, 12 
ounces yeast. Dissolve the yeast ; have water and milk at a tempera- 
ture of 75 to 8o° F. ; shop and flour at the same temperature; 
add the salt to the water and make a medium firm dough. The 
dough should be mixed very smooth and dry. It is best in mixing 
to draw in one-half of the flour and work it in and then add the 
rest of the flour required to give the right tightness to the dough. 
To mix this way is a little more troublesome than taking the flour 
all at one time, but assures a good dough. When the dough is 
mixed pen it up ; it will be ready to be worked over in two hours ; 
let it come up again ; scale and mould in boxes ; then form in loaves ; 
set in cloths and prove; bake in a moderate heat, from 325° to 350 F. 

VIENNA BREAD, STRAIGHT DOUGH WITH FERMENT. 

One pail ferment (10 quarts), 5 quarts of milk, 8 ounces sugar, 
8 ounces lard. Make a medium firm dough with a good patent 
flour and the ingredients given. Work it over twice and make into 
loaves like the other Vienna breads. 



rencn J3reads. 



The breads made in France, especially in Paris, are different 
from the American made article. They are dark in color, light 
and flaky with a slight sourish taste; the loaves are long and 
slender, the crust rather hard. In some parts of France there 
is also a large round loaf, made more like the American half-rye 
bread, but flat, and flour-dusted before baking. The long loaf 
weighs about two pounds, while the round loaf weighs four 
pounds and more. The French bread of today is not at all 
genuine French; a large part of it is really a Vienna loaf, it is 
made with the Vienna process, only in the large loaves the 
milk is left out. The original French bread is raised with what 
we would call a continued sponge. No yeast is used; only the 
fancy breads are made with yeast. They used to consist of 
brioche, a dough with plenty of eggs in it, and of which large 
and small fancy rolls were made, and some other plainer rolls, 
raised with barm or stock yeast. 

About thirty years ago some Vienna bakeries were established 
in Paris. As the fame of the Vienna breads spread over all 
Europe, some good bakers were secured direct from Vienna, and 
since this time the Vienna bread has gained in favor from 
year to year. In some bakeries they make only bread, and make 
the original French; others make both kinds, and also the fancy 
breads, the "pain de luxe" as it is named. The old barm and stock 
yeast has been gradually replaced by the stronger distillers' yeast. 
I will give the recipe used in France, in the hope that some bakers 
here will give it a trial on a small scale, and make a loaf of genuine 
French bread. Instead of using yeast the start is made with a 
piece of dough about three pounds, which is left for this purpose 
from the day before. This leaven is called "levain du chef," or in 
short "chef"; this is made fine in three quarts of water, and with 
additional flour worked into a medium fine sponge. In a couple 
of hours this is ready. As soon as it begins to drop, with six more 
quarts of water the sponge is broken fine, and more flour added. 

(46) 



French Breads. 47 

This sponge should be worked good and smooth, and a little 
slacker than the first sponge. This is the "levain premiere." 
While this is raising, the oven is heated, and when the sponge be- 
gins to drop from twelve to twenty-four quarts of water with the 
usual amount of salt (from six to eight ounces to twelve quarts) 
is put on the sponge, the sponge broken fine and worked into a 
good smooth dough. One-third of this dough is put aside and 
panned up. This is the second sponge for the next batch of 
bread. The remaining dough, after letting it come up for about 
ten minutes (given a start), is scaled right out of the trough, 
molded into loaves at once, put into long cloth lined baskets, the 
shape of the loaf. It is given about three-quarters proof. The 
oven has been swabbed out by this time, the loaf is turned upside 
down onto the peel, given three or four slanting cuts, put in the 
oven onto the hearth, and baked to a nice light brown color. 

As the French flours are mostly winter wheat flours, and per- 
haps stronger than the American soft winter wheats, I would ad- 
vise the use of one part spring and two parts of winter for a trial. 
The weaker flours would require a younger treatment of the 
sponges, not too warm, and the dough should not lay too long, say 
from ten to fifteen minutes — no more. The old dough used for the 
start, should either be put in a pail and one quart of cold water put 
on or more flour worked into it and rolled up into a cloth, well 
floured, to keep it from getting too sour. As we do not have the 
baskets it will do just as well to set the moulded loaves in cloth 
lined boxes, like the Vienna, and pinch the cloth up between the 
loaves. It is my belief that a loaf made with compressed yeast 
with a soft sponge, or a straight dough will make a more palatable 
bread, but it is well to give the recipe a trial. 

CHICAGO FRENCH BREAD. 

Make a sponge as usual with six ounces of compressed yeast 
and three gallons of water at a temperature of 75 degrees F. Let 
this sponge get ready to the drop, dissolve eighteen ounces of salt 
and twelve ounces of sugar in three gallons of water at the same 
temperature, and make a good medium firm dough; let it come up 
to double size; work down again and let it come up half; then it 
is ready to be scaled and molded into loaves. Set the molded loaves 
into cloth-lined boxes, dusted slightly with flour, smooth side down 
like the Vienna breads ; give about three-quarter proof, turn smooth 
side up onto the peel, give from six to eight slanting cuts, wash 



48 Bakers' Bread. 

with water and bake on the hearth in a baking heat of about 450 
degrees F. Wash again with water or cornstarch wash before 
withdrawing from the oven when baked. Many bakers do not make 
a special dough for the French bread. They use either the Vienna 
or the other pan bread doughs for this purpose. 

NEW YORK FRENCH BREAD. 

While in the western part of this country only the long, slender 
loaves are known as French bread in the Eastern States, and espe- 
cially so in New York, the French bakers make several kinds — two 
kinds of long loaves (jocos), which sell at five and ten cents, and 
the long split loaf. The large long loaves are more than two feet 
long, and the split loaves about eighteen inches long. They weigh 
two pounds, one and one-half pounds and one pound. In New 
York city some of the French bakers are making their own stock 
yeast and others use compressed yeast to stock the ferment with. 
In most places a sponge is set with ferment and very few are using 
straight doughs. This is the recipe: 

With one twelve-quart pail of good strong ferment set a me- 
dium sponge at 75 degrees F. This sponge will be ready in about 
three hours and begin to drop ; to this sponge add one pail of water 
at the same temperature, with twenty ounces of salt dissolved in 
it; break the sponge very fine and make a medium dough, rather 
slack than tight, but work it well. Put it up close in the trough and 
let it come up for one hour, then scale and mold into the box, and 
when all have been scaled, begin to mold into loaves set in cloth, 
the smooth side down. Pinch up the cloths between, and when 
proved put onto the peel; wash with water, give four or five cuts 
and bake on the hearth. Wash again when baked. 

The split loaves are made out of the same dough. They weigh 
one and one-half pounds, and sell at eight cents. After the loaves 
are scaled and molded round in the box or on the bench they are 
formed into long loaves, Vienna shape. Some flour is dusted on 
the bench and the loaves are set aside till all are molded. They 
are then slightly dusted with flour and some baker's grease, then 
with lard, and, commencing on the first ones molded, they are 
pressed along the center with a rolling pin about two feet long and 
about two and one-half inches in diameter, just like the split rolls. 
Then they are set in cloths, split side down, and finished proving. 
They are given about three-quarters proof, turned split side up 
onto the peel, put into the oven and baked without washing. This 



French Breads. 49 

makes a nice light and crusty loaf, which is preferred by many be- 
cause the crust is more brittle, not being washed. 

Some of the French bakers use the same process of sponging 
and doughing like in the description given above, but add to the 
dough a piece of dough left from the previous batch, say from six 
to ten pounds, for the purpose of giving age to the dough in a 
shorter time. French breads should be baked not only till done, 
but baked till the crust is hard and crisp. Plenty of crust is one of 
the essentials of a good French bread. 

Another kind of bread which is well liked in restaurants and 
hotels and is also named French bread, but which is more of Italian 
origin, is made with a very soft sponge and dough. The usual 
quantities of yeast and salt are used, a very slack sponge is set, and 
the dough is made very soft, so soft that it seems almost impossible 
for bakers not used to it to handle it. The dough should be worked 
thoroughly till it comes off the hands, given time to prove up once 
then it is scaled and molded into one-pound loaves, long and nar- 
row like the French breads. The loaves are set in heavy floured 
cloths, pinched up like the Vienna, and flour is dusted on the tops 
to prevent sticking to the cloths. The loaves are given good proof, 
turned onto the peel and baked on the hearth without washing. 

In old recipes for French bread no milk or sugar and lard is 
used; but lately the tough-crusted, all-water breads are more and 
more giving way to the short-crusted breads which find more favor 
with the public. Some bakers make the French breads out of the 
Vienna dough only in the shape of the long narrow French loaves. 
The bread is baked in steam, like the Vienna, only more crust is 
given in baking. French bread is made in one and two pound 
loaves. The pound loaves are made about twelve inches long and 
three inches in diameter and given four cuts before baking; and the 
two-pound loaves are about two feet long with from six to eight 
cuts. In many bakeries the French breads are baked in steam, like 
the Vienna breads, but with a thick crust. For the split loaves it 
is better to have the dough a little older than for the long loaves. 

French Bread No. 1.— One pail water, 1 pail milk, 8 ounces 
yeast, l / 2 pound sugar, y 2 pound salt. Set a sponge with the water, 
sugar and yeast; let it drop and then add the milk and salt; make 
a medium firm dough, and work it well; let the dough come up 
full and work over; give it a good start and mold into loaves, prove 
and bake. 



50 Bakers' Bread. 

French Bread No. 2.— Two pails water, 24 pound of yeast, 1 
pound sugar, 1 pound salt. Set a medium sponge at 8o° F., with one 
pail of water and the yeast. When the sponge is ready put on the 
sugar and salt and make a slack dough. Beat the dough well in, 
mixing, but have it on the slack side; let it come on once, throw 
out and scale in one pound loaves; make them long and narrow 
like the other French loaves. Set the molded loaves in very heavy 
dusted cloths; draw up and dust on top; give three-quarter proof; 
put on the peel without washing or cutting the loaves, and bake 
very crisp in a good heat. This is not a regular French bread, but it 
is a specialty in some Chicago hotels. It does not look very nice, 
but it is very good to eat. 

FRENCH BREAD WITH FERMENT, WITHOUT SUGAR OR LARD. 

One pail of ferment, 1 pail of water, 10 ounces salt. Set a 
medium sponge at 75 F, give a good drop, then add the other pail 
of water at the same temperature ; add the salt ; have the flour and 
shop also at 75 F. or 8o° F. ; make the dough medium tight, so 
that it molds well ; let the dough come up well ; work it over and 
give it a little time to prove ; scale and mold into loaves ; give good 
proof before baking, and bake in good heat, from 350 F. to 400 F. 

FRENCH BREAD WITH A SHORT SPONGE WITH COMPRESSED YEAST. 

One pail of water, 2 quarts milk, 1 pound lard, 8 ounces yeast, 
6 ounces salt, 4 ounces sugar. Make a very slack sponge (luke 
warm) with the water, sugar and yeast; beat the sponge up well 
and let it rise. It will come to the drop in about two hours. Then 
put on the milk and salt, add the lard and work in enough flour to 
make a medium dough ; work it well till it comes off the hands ; let 
it rest for half an hour, then scale and mold into loaves, prove and 
bake 



Rye Breads. 



There is a large consumption of rye bread in America, and the 
demand is increasing from day to day; but very little is said in 
journals devoted to the baking trade about rye flour or rye bread, 
and its value in nutriment and edibility in comparison with wheat 
flour and wheat bread. Many claim the acid it contains is an aid 
to digestion, and it is in consequence healthier than wheaten bread 
raised with yeast. 

In Germany, Austria, a part of Russia and some other coun- 
tries, rye bread takes the place of our wheaten bread as the staff 
of life. It is not always pure rye bread, as in many places the darker 
grades of wheat flour are used in blending, to give more strength 
to the weaker rye flours. The best rye breads are made in Southern 
Germany, Bohemia and Austria, and the breads are raised with 
sour dough. The methods differ in almost every city. At Vienna 
the rye bread is made about as follows : In a large round tub about 
three feet high by four feet diameter, a soft sponge is made with 
three pails of water and half a pail of liquid sour dough ; the flour 
is worked in by means of a long wooden paddle. This is fermented 
for about two hours, then one more pail of water is stirred in with 
one pound of salt and from six to eight ounces crushed caraway 
seed and fennel. The sides of the tub are scraped down and the 
contents are put into the trough and worked with more flour to 
a medium stiff dough. The dough is given a little time to prove, 
then is scaled, molded in round loaves, put in shallow wicker baskets, 
face down, proved, turned over on the peel, washed before putting 
in the oven, and baked. The use of these baskets admits of a softer 
dough being used, and it makes a lighter loaf. In southern Ger- 
many, also in Austria and Bohemia, a shallow basket is used, with 
a firmer dough, and in some parts the bread is molded and put on 
a heavy floured board, washed over several times, till it is ready 
to put into the oven. 

Further north, in Leipsic, Saxony, a rye bread is made with a 
full soft sponge and very little or no salt at all. At first a sponge 



52 Bakers' Bread. 

is made of one pail of water and about ten pounds of sour dough; 
this is called "grundsaur." When this is ready three more pails of 
tvater are put on and with more flour worked into a soft sponge 
tailed "vollsauer." This sponge when it is up even is made into a 
medium dough (for the smaller loaves a softer dough is used than 
for the larger ones). The dough is scaled, molded and put in round 
or long baskets, deeper than the ones used in Vienna. The loaves 
weigh from one to ten pounds ; the two, four and six pound loaves 
are mostly in demand. The baskets and also the peels used for put- 
ting the bread into the oven are of different sizes, according to the 
loaves. When it has proved, the baskets are taken to the oven, 
turned upside down on the peel with a slight knock, the loaves are 
washed with water, the initials of the baker and the weight stamped 
on and baked. 

In some cities there is a local bread law, the price of the bread 
is regulated by the city council according to the price of flour; the 
bread is sold by the pound. The bakeries are visited by inspectors 
and the loaves are weighed from time to time, to enforce this law. 
Two grades of rye bread are sold in most of the places ; the differ- 
ence is from one to two pfennig per pound (the pfennig is a fourth 
of a cent). 

At Hamburg and Bremen several kinds of rye bread are made: 
First, the coarse rye bread here called "pumpernickel," then the half 
fine bread and fine bread. The pumpernickel is made from rye meal 
with all the bran in it, and the fine and half fine bread of the bolted 
rye flour. The pumpernickel is raised with sour dough, while the 
others are raised with a little of the sour dough and compressed yeast 
Generally only two batches of bread are baked in one day in most of 
the bakeries, first the fine and half fine bread and then the pumper- 
nickel. Peat is used for fuel. In the evening the oven is filled with 
the quantity required for heating and the sponge is set to be ready 
in the morning. The fire is lit in the morning and the doughs are 
made. 

As the process the molded loaf has to go through before it is 
baked is very peculiar, and is only used in North Germany, it will be 
of interest to give a description of it. The process is called "cassel- 
ing" or "gerstling." After the dough is scaled the burning coals are 
drawn to the forepart of the oven and divided on both sides about 
two feet apart in two long heaps. Two boards, about eight feet 
long, ten inches wide and one inch thick are brought into use, the 
wet cassel and the dry cassel; one is kept in water in a long, nar- 



Rye Breads. 53 

row trough, the other is dry. The bakers begin molding, and one 
puts the loaves, after being washed, on the wet board. When the 
board is filled it is pushed into the oven between the two fires, the 
heat forms a thin, elastic skin and small blisters, then the board is 
drawn out, the loaves taken off and put with the upper dry side 
down on the dry board, pushed back in the oven, and as soon as 
evenly blistered taken out and put on other boards to finish proving. 
The round loaves are cut across and the long loaves slightly on the 
sides. This process is continued till all the bread is molded. When 
the loaves have proved the fire is withdrawn and the bread baked. 
This treatment keeps the loaves in shape, prevents breaking, and in 
baking gives a lighter color to the crust, and as all the long loaves 
are put close together in the oven, in brick shape, it prevents them 
from adhering too much. 

All German rye breads are raised with a leaven called sour 
dough ; that is a piece of sour dough is kept over from the previous 
batch, to start the next. Sour dough has to be treated as carefully 
as stock yeast and ferment to prevent it from getting too old, 
because after the sour dough has reached its maturity and fermenta- 
tion is not checked it gets putrid, loses strength, and makes bad 
bread. If rye bread is not made every day it is best to keep the sour 
dough covered with water in a cool place, or freshen it up with 
more flour and water to keep it in good condition. In Germany 
bakers sell sour dough to the public just as yeast is sold here. 

All rye breads are hearth baked, and bakers not used to handle 
rye flour often fail to turn out a good bread because they work it 
like wheat flours. Rye flour is a weak flour and has not the strength 
of the wheat flours, it should be treated cooler, given less proof, and 
it requires also a stronger, quicker heat for baking; for this reason 
rye bread is always baked in the first heat before the other breads. 
When a rye dough is made it should be given just enough time to 
spring on ; that is, when it begins to show life again, then it should 
be scaled, molded and given about half the proof that is given to 
wheat breads. Some rye flours contain the darker grades of wheat 
flour, and of course stand more proof. 

Many bakers prick the rye bread before putting in the oven with 
a piece of wood like a pencil, others punch a hole in the center with 
the finger; this is to prevent blistering in the quick heat, and also 
to prevent breaking out on the sides, which a cool, young dough, 
exposed to a quick heat, often does. An old German baker's proverb 
says : "Kalt und weich macht den backer reich, warm und trocken 



54 Bakers' Bread. 

bringt ihn auf die socken." That means in plain English : "A cool 
and soft dough makes the baker rich, but a warm and dry dough 
makes him poor." This old saying holds good yet, and if followed 
will bring money in any baker's pocket. 

There is no more difficulty in the making of rye bread than 
there is in the making of any of the breads made out of wheat flour, 
and any good baker can make it after several trials, if close attention 
is paid to the recipes given. There is a great difference in the rye 
flours ; no two of the brands are alike, and for this reason they work 
differently. Bread made out of all rye, and with sour dough only, 
is almost too heavy for the American taste. The addition of wheat 
flour, and only a small quantity of sour dough with compressed 
yeast or ferment, makes a lighter and larger loaf which finds more 
favor and sells better. For this reason I think it is the best way 
to make rye bread. Many bakers make several kinds of rye breads, 
full rye bread and half rye bread, rye bread with and without cara- 
way seed. For the half rye bread, which is made without sour 
dough, and often without seeds, a sponge is set with wheat flour and 
yeast, and rye flour is used for doughing. It is baked in the shape of 
the Vienna loaf. The full rye bread is raised with yeast to which 
some sour dough has been added. There are some people who do 
not like caraway seed, and for this reason some bakers add it only 
to a part of the dough, or put it in during the molding process. This 
gives a choice to the consumer. 

Rye bread is made in round and in long loaves. The long 
loaves are often drawn in cloths and set in boxes, smooth side down, 
like the Vienna breads and washed on the peel before putting in 
the oven. The round loaves are set in heavy floured boxes smooth 
side up, and washed before baking. The rye breads are baked in the 
first heat before the rolls and other small goods. 

SOUR DOUGH FOR RYE BREADS. 

Only a small quantity of sour dough is required, and it can be 
made for a start out of a piece of yeast-raised dough — rye bread 
dough if possible. Take three pounds of old dough, dissolve in one 
quart of water, add a little more rye flour, and make a luke warm 
sponge. Let this stand till the next day, and use it for the first 
batch with some compressed yeast. Every day keep a piece of the 
rye dough back to use for a starter for the next day's batch. 



Rye Breads. 55 

RYE BREAD WITH SOUR DOUGH. 

One gallon water, 3 pounds of sour dough. Set a sponge with 
the water and sour dough, and use a good rye flour. Set it at a 
temperature of 65 F. to 70 F. ; let this come to the drop, and put 
on 6 gallons of water and 12 ounces of salt. Make a medium firm 
dough with three-fourths rye flour and one-fourth of wheat flour. 
Let the dough rest until it begins to show life again ; then scale and 
mold into loaves. Give good half proof, and bake in a good heat 
of 400 F. to 450 F. Do not set the loaves too close together in 
the oven till they are baked up well ; then move closer together and 
finish baking. 

RYE BREAD WITH SOUR DOUGH AND YEAST. 

Two pails of water, 2 ounces yeast, 3 pounds of sour dough, 1 
pound of salt, 1 ounce carraway seed. Set a sponge with one pail 
of water, the yeast and sour dough. When the sponge begins to 
drop put on the other pail of water with the salt dissolved in it, 
add the carraway seed, and make a rather firm dough (rye dough 
always loses some of its tightness) ; work it well and let it come on 
a little, then scale, mold into loaves and bake in a good heat. While 
rye breads are best baked on the hearth, bakers who have shelf 
ovens can use roll pans dusted with a mixture of flour and corn- 
meal to bake rye bread cm. 

RYE BREAD WITH A STRAIGHT DOUGH. 

One pail water, 3 pounds sour dough, 2 ounces yeast, 8 ounces 
salt, 1 ounce carraway seed. Dissolve the sour dough and the yeast 
in the water; add the salt and seed. Have the water at 65 F. ; take 
two-thirds of rye flour and one-third of wheat flour. Make a firm 
dough and work it well; let it double in size; work over and scale 
and mold into loaves. 

BOHEMIAN RYE BREAD. 

For the Sponge: Six pounds of old rye dough, two gallons of 
water, sixteen pounds of rye flour. For the Dough: Six gallons of 
water, twenty ounces of salt. Set a slack sponge by dissolving the 
sour dough in two gallons of water and adding the sixteen pounds 
of rye flour. When the sponge has got a good drop, put on the six 
gallons of water and the salt, and make a medium firm dough; let 
this dough come on about half, and work it over; let it come on 
again for fifteen minutes and scale and mould into loaves. Some 



56 Bakers' Bread. 

wheat flour is used in all these rye breads to give strength to the 
dough. Some of the Bohemian bakers use sour dough and yeast 
with the sponge, and in New York they use a part of the previous 
batch to make the next dough out of it. 

RYE BREAD WITH SUGAR AND LARD. 

One pail of water, six ounces of lard, four ounces of sugar, six 
ounces of salt. Make a straight dough with the ingredients given, 
like a wheat bread dough; let it come up to double its size; work 
over and let it come to; then scale and mould into loaves. Use 
from one third to one half of wheat flour in the mixture and bake 
like Vienna bread. 

HALF RYE BREAD. 

One pail of water, three ounces of yeast, eight ounces of 
salt, one ounce caraway seed. Set a sponge at 75 degrees F. 
with half a pail of water and the yeast; use wheat flour for the 
sponge and rye flour for the doughing. When the sponge is 
ready add the other half pail of water, the salt and caraway 
seed. Make a medium firm dough; let it come up half, work 
down and scale and mould into loaves. 

Half rye bread is made in the shape of the Vienna bread, 
only not so much pointed at the ends, but can be formed into 
round loaves, if desired. When the long loaves are proved they 
are washed on the peel with water, a straight cut is given on 
each end, and then they are put in the oven. When baked they are 
washed again with water, or with a cornstarch wash. 

There is another way of making the half rye bread which saves 
the making of an extra sponge. Many bakers set one large sponge 
for several kinds of wheat bread ; when the sponge is broken up 
the desired quantity is taken out, and by adding rye flour for 
doughing, it makes a good half rye bread. Sour dough can be 
used in the broken sponge and more water added. This makes a 
still better rye bread. 

HALF RYE BREAD WITH MOLASSES. 

Some bakers find a good sale for a sweet half rye bread and the 
recipe is well worth a trial. Take from a white bread sponge, or 
set a sponge with yeast and wheat flour as usual for wheat bread. 
Use rye flour for doughing. For each pail take eight ounces of 
salt and one and one-half pint of N. O. molasses or one and one- 
half pounds of brown sugar. Prove and bake just like the other half 



Rye Breads. 57 

rye. When the loaves are baked and while hot brush the top over 
with lard, which makes a nice soft crust. Sour dough and also 
caraway seed may be added to this dough the same as for the 
other rye breads. 

PUMPERNICKEL. 

The coarse rye bread which is here known under the above 
name is raised with leaven or sour dough. It is made from the rye 
meal with all the bran in it, and often the darker grades of wheat 
are blended with the rye meal to give more strength to the weaker 
rye flour. The stone-milled meal makes a better bread than the 
rye meal which is made by the roller process, and should be used 
for this bread if it can be had. The addition of bran to the rye 
meal makes an inferior bread, and I would not advise its use, al- 
though it is used in some bakeries. The best bread is made with a 
pure rye meal and one fourth or fifth part of wheat flour; it makes 
a lighter and more palatable bread. 

The home of the genuine pumpernickel is Westphalia, a part 
of Prussia, and in some places an addition of molasses is used to 
sweeten the bread. The loaves are made very large, from ten to 
twenty-five pounds and more; the bread is sold in slices and by 
weight. In small country towns one often meets boys with a hand- 
cart taking one big loaf to the baker or bringing the baked loaf 
home. The bread is put in the oven in the evening and taken out 
in the morning. Westphalia ham and pumpernickel are a well- 
known delicacy in Germany, which have found their way into 
some of our best American hotels. 

In North Germany this bread goes through the process of 
"casselling." After it is moulded the loaves are washed and put 
on a long iron "cassel," which consists of a long piece of sheet 
iron, six feet long, eight inches wide, and one fourth of an inch 
thick, with a wooden handle of two feet attached. The ovens are 
heated on the inside, and the coals are drawn to the front and 
divided into two long heaps about two feet apart. The iron cassel 
is pushed in between the two fires; when it has reached a certain 
degree of heat it is pulled out and the moulded loaves are put on 
about six at one time, washed and pushed in the oven. The heat 
forms a thin elastic skin and little blisters; then the loaves are 
taken off and set on boards to finish proving. This treatment keeps 
the loaves in shape, prevents bursting, and gives a lighter color to 
the crust in baking and gives also a different taste to the baked 



58 Bakers' Bread. 

loaf. It also prevents the loaves from adhering too much. This 
treatment is not practiced here to my knowledge, because it is too 
troublesome and not enough of this bread is baked by many bakers 
to make it pay. For this reason bakers generally mould the bread, 
give it half proof and wash and bake it like the other rye breads, 
only set close together in brick shape. 

I would advise bakers, in making this bread, to try a different 
way to form a thin crust on the moulded bread before proving; I 
know it will make a better bread and any baker who uses a furnace 
oven can do this without much trouble. For this process the flash 
heat of the oven can be utilized. Have the pumpernickel dough 
ready for moulding, and scaled off about fifteen minutes before 
the oven is ready to be shut down. Begin moulding up the loaves 
at once. In fifteen minutes they are moulded , and the oven is shut 
The oven heat at this time is from 550 degrees F. to 600 degrees F. 
"Swab" and clean out the oven; wash over the loaves; put them 
on the peel and fill the oven as quickly as possible. The flash heat 
forms the thin crust and the loaves are withdrawn and set aside 
to finish proving. If the crust should get a little too crisp the 
loaves can be washed over, which will soften it again. While prov- 
ing the oven should be cleaned, and lined on the sides with pieces 
of wood cut to fit, and then the bread is put in. The loaves are 
pressed in shape, and slightly greased on one side to prevent stick- 
ing. When the bread is taken from the oven it is washed with 
water. 

Where only a small quantity of pumpernickel is made, the 
loaves can be set in a baking pan, with a wooden frame in it and 
baked in this manner. I give two recipes: 

No. 1. — For Sponge: Three pounds of sour dough, two gallons 
of water. For Dough: Six gallons of water, eight ounces of salt, 
one ounce of caraway seed. Set a sour dough with three pounds 
of old rye dough and two gallons of water and rye meal, in the 
evening. In the morning put on the six gallons of water and salt; 
add the caraway seed and make a firm dough with more rye meal, 
to which some wheat flour has been added. Let the dough rest 
till it shows life again, then scale, and when it is all scaled, begin 
moulding. In Germany the loaves weigh from two to ten pounds 
and even more. Here, only two pound loaves are made. 

No. 2. — Like the other rye breads, pumpernickel can be made 
out of a yeast raised sponge Tphich has been broken up. Some sour 



Rye Breads. 59 

dough is added, and rye meal is used for doughing. One gallon 
broken sponge, one gallon water, three pounds old rye dough, four 
ounces salt, caraway seed. Dissolve the rye dough in the water; 
add it to the broken sponge, also the salt and caraway seed, and 
make a firm dough with rye meal. Prove and bake as directed in 
the other recipe. The caraway seed is only optional, and can be 
left out if so desired. 



Individual Breads and Rolls, 



Bakers are often called upon to furnish a special bread for 
parties, banquets or small family dinners. While the ordinary Vienna 
or French bread is frequently used, the best caterers prefer to serve 
a small individual loaf or roll to each person. This is an old 
custom brought from Europe, where it has been in use for many 
years. The largest individual loaf is made in the shape of the Vienna 
or French loaf, weighs about seven ounces in the dough, just long 
enough to fit exactly the oval silver tray in which it is served. The 
smallest loaf is not more than two inches long and weighs one half 
ounce. It is used to serve with soups like consomme or boullion. 
As these breads are made to suit the fancy of the dinner-givers or 
caterers, they differ considerably in size, weight and quality. 

The small loaf or roll most in use is made six to seven inches 
long, cut and pointed like the Vienna, weighs about four ounces in 
the dough. Another is made of all milk dough, but like the French 
loaf, with rounded ends, given two cross cuts like the flutes, or one 
long cut from end to end in the center, which makes it look like 
a split loaf. The next is a round loaf made from Vienna dough and 
weighs from three to four ounces, it is given a cut in the center 
before baking. 

These breads are baked in steam and on the hearth like the Vi- 
enna bread, and should have a good crust. They can also be baked on 
dusted or lightly greased pans without steam ; but in this case should 
be washed with a light egg-wash before baking. If baked on the 
hearth they should be proved in cloths like the French and Vienna 
breads. A good Vienna dough is considered the best for these 
breads; only in case a very crisp and hard-crusted bread is wanted 
it is preferable to use a water dough. For light luncheons, teas and 
receptions, where no heavy dishes are served, a special light and rich 
bread is served (something like the French brioche), with plenty 
of eggs and butter in it, in fancy shapes like twist, crescent and 
fingers. 

(60) 



Small Breads. 61 

There are other breads whch are used at dinners, like pulled 
bread, soup sticks and cheese sticks, cheese straws and French flutes 
or finger rolls. The caterers charge twenty cents per dozen for the 
cheese and soup sticks and finger rolls, and more for the other fancy 
breads, so there is a good profit in these small breads. 

All these small fancy breads should be made neat and attractive 
in appearance, the soup sticks and cheese strips small and dainty. 
Better have them too small than too large. They are often tied in 
bunches of one dozen, with a blue or pink ribbon and put into the 
show window. 

FRENCH BRIOCHE. 

One pint milk; two ounces of yeast; eight to twelve eggs; one 
pound of washed out butter ; one ounce sugar ; a pinch of salt. Set 
a sponge with the milk and the yeast. When this sponge is ready, 
break in the eggs, and add the sugar and salt. Work this in first 
and add more flour, then all the butter; make a smooth dough, let 
it rise and work over several times and set cool to stiffen up. When 
the dough has rested for some time it is ready to be moulded into 
the desired shapes, either in round rolls or in long finger-shape. 
One of these rolls is made in the shape of the Vienna, but cut with 
scissors in zig-zag from point to point. The regular French Brioche 
is made in the shape of the cottage loaf, large flat bottom and small 
top, and cut on the sides. These rolls are baked on pans and washed 
with a good egg wash before baking. 

PULLED BREAD. 

The original pulled bread is made by taking the inside out of a 
fresh baked loaf, and pulling it apart by means of two forks in large 
flakes, which are toasted in the oven to a light brown crisp. As this 
is not very convenient to serve in this way, another method 
is used: A fresh loaf is cut w5th a sharp knfe into slices 
about one inch or more in thickness. The crust is trimmed off, and 
the slices are cut into strips one inch thick, loosened lightly with 
a fork and toasted on a pan in the oven. This toast is served with 
cheese at dinners, and is also used for invalids. It should be toasted 
very dry, without any soft crumb inside. 

BREAD STICKS. 

Bread sticks or soup sticks are used in place of crackers, to be 
eaten with soups. They are made from the Vienna dough, and alsa 
from common roll dough, with a good shortening, but with very 



62 Bakers* Bread. 

little sugar in it. The dough when ready should be put in a cool 
place to stiffen up and to lose some of its springiness. It is easier 
moulded and keeps its shape better when cold. The dough is then 
broken in small pieces and formed in long strips of the length and 
thickness of a lead pencil, put on pans, proved and baked in a cool 
oven, very crisp and dry. 

SOUP STICKS WITH BAKING POWDER. 

There is another mixture, which can be made into soup sticks at 
a very short notice. Baking powder is used instead of yeast: One 
pound of flour ; one ounce of baking powder ; one and a half ounces 
of sugar ; one ounce of butter ; mix with milk. Rub the butter in the 
flour, mix in the baking powder, add the sugar and mix with milk 
a little tighter than Tea Biscuit dough; let it rest a moment, and 
then form in strips like the other soup sticks. Bake crisp, and 
brush with milk before baking. 

CHEESE STICKS (PAIN SWISS). 

Cheese sticks are served with fancy salads and also at the begin- 
ning of the dinner after the soups, with the "hors-d'oeuvres," which 
consists of small patties and other small appetizers. They are made 
of puff paste in which some dry grated cheese is rolled in. For 
gentlemen's parties it is often served deviled— that is a dash of 
cayenne pepper is added to the grated cheese, to sharpen the appetite. 
The best cheese for this is a dry Parmesan, but a good dry American 
cheese will answer. Take a piece of puff paste, roll out thin and 
grate some cheese over it, fold in three and roll out again to one- 
eighth of an inch in thickness ; wash with egg wash and grate more 
cheese over it ; cut in strips from five to six inches long and halt an 
inch wide ; put on pans ; let it stand for half an hour in a cold place, 
then bake nice and crisp in a medium heat. A good rich piecrust 
can be used also for this purpose ; but puff paste is better. 

CHEESE STRAWS AND BISCUITS. 

These are made in the shape of soup sticks, about three to four 
inches long and of the thickness of a pencil. They are served in the 
same manner as the cheese sticks. Take equal parts of butter, grated 
cheese and flour, rub the butter and cheese to a smooth paste, season 
with a little cayenne pepper, a pinch of dry mustard and salt, 
add the flour, and with some yolk of eggs and a little milk mix into 
a paste like a cookie dough ; set in a cold place to get firm, and make 
in strips. Bake in a medium heat. 



Small Breads, 63 

For Biscuits use the same mixture. Roll out one quarter of an 
inch thick; cut in round or scalloped biscuits one and one half an 
inch in diameter; prick with a fork; put on pans and bake to a nice 
color. 

RASPEL BRODCHEN (RASP ROLL). 

Rasprolls serve for several purposes in fancy cooking. They 
are used for fritters, sandwiches, crustades, and also as a special 
dinner roll. They are made in different sizes and shapes, as ordered. 
For a dinner roll the size and shape is like the French flutes, only 
the crust removed. For sandwiches they are made in a smaller 
oval shape. For crustades they are made small and round, the top 
is cut off, the inside removed, rilled with a meat paste, the top re- 
placed and served floating in bouillon. For fritters a round shape 
is used; the roll is partly split around, without cutting through, the 
incision filled with a fruit jam or jelly, then soaked in a custard, and 
fried in hot lard or butter like the doughnuts. 

The rasprolls may be made from a good Vienna dough. They 
are best if baked on the hearth. For the sweet fritters a good rusk 
dough may be used. Bake the rolls very crisp in a good heat- While 
hot grate off the dark crust evenly all around ; use a fine grater, or 
a coarse rasp, such as is used for cleaning the bottom of hearth- 
baked breads. 

VIENNA ROLLS. 

The excellent taste of the Vienna bread and rolls is due to the 
cool treatment of the sponges and doughs, and also to baking the 
breads in steam and on the hearth. (Only a small part of the fancy 
rolls are baked on pans, that is the brioches and a rich sort of rolls 
which contain some shortening.) A light sponge is set with plenty 
of good strong yeast; both sponges and doughs are taken young; 
the breads and rolls are moulded up and given about three-quarter 
proof; then they are set in a cool place to check fermentation, then 
stiffened up and then they are baked. 

The rolls should be divided in three classes: water rolls, milk 
rolls and rolls with shortening. For the water rolls the ordinary 
dough is used, and it is made into "salz-stangel," which are rolled up 
like the kipfel or crescent and laid in salt or in caraway seed and 
salt, the twist with poppy seed, and the "Spitzweck," a roll formed 
in the shape of the Vienna loaf. The milk rolls are made with half 
or part milk, any good Vienna dough a little tightened up may be 
used. Out of this dough are made the greater part of the Vienna 



64 Bakers' Bread. 

rolls, the Kaisersemel (or emperor's bread), the crescent or kipfl, 
and also the different large and small twists with poppy or caraway 
seed, and also the spitzweck, which is known as the Vienna roll. 

The rolls with shortening are baked on pans. For this a milk 
dough is used in which some cold butter is worked, which gives the 
dough, or better the rolls a brittle, leafy crust when baked; for 
the brioche a few eggs are worked in the milk dough, and some 
round brioches are made with a few sultana raisins in it. The 
shapes of the brioches are many; like long twist, twisted wreaths or 
rings, small crescents, snails, and long ringer rolls. The making 
of these rolls requires long practice and dexterity and also much 
time; but if made and baked all right can not be excelled by any 
other breads- 

VIENNA WATER ROLLS. 

One pail of water (12 quarts) ; six ounces of yeast; eight ounces 
of salt. Set a very slack sponge with eight quarts of water with a 
good patent flour; beat it up well, at a temperature of 75 degrees 
Fah. This sponge will be ready in less than three hours. Take it 
at the first drop. Dissolve the salt in the remaining four quarts of 
water, put it on the sponge, break it up well, and with more flour 
make it into a good medium firm dough, let it come up and work 
over, give a little time to spring on again; then break it into pieces 
of suitable size for the different rolls. This mixture will also answer 
for one and two pounds twist, and if half milk is used instead of all 
water, it will make a good milk roll. 

VIENNA MILK ROLLS. 

Ten quarts of milk and water; six ounces of yeast and six ounces 
of salt. Make a sponge as usual with six quarts of water and the 
yeast; when it is ready put on four quarts of milk and the salt, and 
proceed as in the foregoing mixture. 

VIENNA ROLLS WITH SHORTENING. 

One pail (ten quarts) of milk; one and a half pounds of cold 
butter; six ounces of yeast; five ounces of salt. Set a soft sponge 
with two-thirds of the milk and the yeast ; beat it up well, and when 
it reaches the drop, put on the other part of the milk and the salt; 
break up the sponge and make a medium firm dough; mix half and 
then add the butter. Draw it in well ; let it prove up and work over ; 
let it come on and break out and form into rolls. This kind of 
Vienna rolls is called "Miirbs" (that means short, or brittle), and the 



Small Breads. 65 

rolls are baked on pans, nat on the hearth. The butter used in these 
rolls is drawn butter. The butter is melted, drawn off and set on 
a cold place to harden. It is then drawn into a cool dough very 
lightly, and the rolls have a nice leafy brittle crust when baked. 

VIENNA BRIOCHES. 

The Vienna brioches are not made as rich as the French brioches, 
but make a very nice fancy roll. The shapes vary very much. They 
consist of several kinds of fancy twists and crescents or kipfl, and 
of a small round roll, with sultana raisins in it. They are baked 
singly and on pans, washed with egg wash before baking, but if 
baked in steam, they are not washed before baking. 

One pint milk; two ounces yeast; one ounce sugar; four eggs; 
eight ounces butter; a pinch of salt. Make a light sponge with the 
milk and yeast; when it is ready, work in the beaten-up eggs, salt 
and sugar; work in some flour and add the butter, work into a nice 
even dough, rather slack; let this dough come up and work over; 
then set in a cold place to stiffen up for one hour. Then it is ready 
to form into the desired shapes. Give good proof and bake in a 
medium heat of 350 degrees Fah. to a nice golden color- 

FRENCH ROLLS. 

Beside the Brioches, the French flute roll and the split roll are 
most generally known. They are made from ordinary French bread 
dough, and are baked very crisp ; like the Vienna rolls they are baked 
on the hearth. Where only very small quantities are made, or the 
condition of the hearth does not warrant baking the rolls in this 
manner, pans dusted with flour and cornmeal can be used to bake 
the rolls on. They are baked also in steam like the Vienna rolls. 
Many bakers prefer to use a rich Vienna dough for the split rolls, 
which makes a softer and more brittle crust than the water dough. 

FRENCH FLUTES. 

Use a French or Vienna dough; break up in three-ounce pieces, 
mould round on the board, give a little proof, form into little loaves 
from five to six inches long; set in cloth-lined boxes and draw up in 
folds like the French bread; prove and turn smooth side up on the 
peel ; give two or three slanting cuts and bake in steam. 

FRENCH SPLIT ROLLS. 

Use the same dough as for flutes. Break in two-ounce pieces 
mould round in box or on boards ; give a little proof and brush the 



66 Bakers' Bread. 

tops very lightly with melted lard. Take a small rolling-pin, about 
half the thickness of a broom stick; press down along the center; 
turn over; set in cloths, split side down; pinch up the cloths between 
the rows and let it prove up well ; turn over and set on the peel split 
up, and bake in a good heat of about 400 degrees F. Bake in steam. 

GERMAN ROLLS. 

All the former rolls mentioned as Vienna and French rolls are 
made by the German bakers, and almost every city has some other 
special rolls. The treatment of doughs also differs very much. While 
in the northern cities, like Hamburg and Bremen, straight doughs 
are used, in central and southern Germany sponge doughs pre- 
dominate. 

The rolls are divided into water and milk rolls, and several cheap 
grades are made from middlings. The richer grades are baked on 
pans, while the others are baked on the hearth. The best known 
rolls of this kind are the Hamburg roll. (Rundstiick), often called 
German Brodchen, and the German semmel, bread roll. The treat- 
ment of the Brodchen is a peculiar one. At Bremen and Hamburg, 
the bakeshops where the white breads are baked are situated over 
the ovens, and are so hot that the bakers are compelled to work 
almost naked; they wear only an apron, formed like a short skirt. 
Next to the hot room is a cool room. The doughs are made in the 
hot shop, straight and very slack, like a sponge, taken out of the 
trough and the batch divided and put into several smaller, trough- 
like boxes, and set to rise. Some of the dough is set in the cool 
room, and the dough intended to be used first is kept in the hot 
room. When the doughs have rested for half an hour, the bench 
is dusted with flour, one box of dough turned out on it, and the 
dough is punched over in very small pieces of not more than one 
pound, put back in the box again to raise, and this is repeated about 
four or five times with the whole batch, which is often a three and 
four-pail batch. The strong yeast, slack dough and the warm shop, 
and the frequent punching ripens the dough in a short time. The 
dough is made into rolls. The rolls are moulded in egg-shape, set 
on boards, which are very heavily dusted with fine bran (not on 
cloths). The rolls are moulded and proved in the hot shop, and when 
the first moulded rolls have the required proof, the foreman goes 
down to the oven, which is made ready, the rolls are let down 
through a chute, and the baking commences. 

The oven is filled from the left to the right hand, the rolls are 



Small Breads. 67 

set on long narrow peels (schlagschieber), given one cut through 
the center, and the oven is filled in a short time. The rolls on the 
left are done by this time, they are taken out with a large broad peel, 
or pulled out with a crutch into a basket in front of the oven door; 
more rolls are put in the oven, and baking is continued till the whole 
batch is worked up. 

HAMBURG RUNDSTUCK (GERMAN BRODCHEN). 

One gallon of milk; four ounces of yeast; two and one half 
ounces of salt. Make a very slack straight dough, set very cool, 
almost like sponge; use a good patent flour. Set the dough to rise 
in a warm place; let it rest for half an hour, and put on the bench 
and work over in one-pound pieces. Put back to prove. Repeat this 
four or five times. The dough should be light and full of life by this 
time, and ready to mould. Mould oval, in two-ounce pieces; set in 
dusted boxes or on floured cloths ; prove and bake in steam. 

An easier way of making these rolls is to bake them on pans and 
use a slack Vienna dough. Mould up in the oval shape; set on pans 
dusted with a mixture of flour and cornmeal ; set to prove in a moist 
prover; let it prove up half and cut with a sharp knife one deep cut 
across the center. Set back to finish proving; give full proof and 
bake in steam. If baked without steam they should be washed with 
water before baking and with a cornstarch wash after baking. 

GERMAN WATER ROLLS. 

The bread or water rolls are made by the sponge method, and for 
this roll any of the Vienna or French water doughs may be used. 
Break the dough in one-ounce pieces, mould round and set on board ; 
give a little proof; take two pieces, press lightly together, set in 
cloth-lined boxes, pinch the cloths up between the rows ; set to prove 
and bake on the hearth and in steam, like the other rolls. The rolls 
can also be set on dusted pans, proved and baked. 

VIENNA ROLLS. 

In the American-Vienna rolls, milk, sugar and lard are used to 
a large extent in all the mixtures. The former recipes are the 
genuine Vienna mixtures as they are used by the Vienna bakers. 

AMERICAN VIENNA ROLL MIXTURES. 

One pail of milk and water (12 quarts) ; two pounds of lard; 
six ounces of yeast; twelve ounces of sugar; five ounces of salt 



68 Bakers' Bread. 

Set a sponge with eight quarts of water, rather slack, at 75 degrees 
Fah. When it is ready put on four quarts of milk, sugar and salt 
Mix about half and add the lard and finish mixing. Let it prove up 
well and work over; let it come a little and break out and form 
into rolls. Prove and bake like the other Vienna rolls. 

VIENNA ROLLS WITH STRAIGHT DOUGH. 

One pail (10 quarts), half milk and water; six ounces of yeast; 
one pound and four ounces of sugar ; five ounces of salt ; two pounds 
of lard. Make a medium firm dough with the ingredients given* 
Work the dough well ; let it rise and work over twice, then it is ready 
to form into rolls. For the crescents and twist it is better to have a 
firm dough, while for the spitzweck (rolls made in the Vienna 
loaf shape), a slacker dough may be used. These rolls are baked 
on pans, and can be baked without steam, but in this an egg wash is 
used before baking. 



AMERICAN ROLLS. 

There is no doubt that most all the rolls made in this coun- 
try are of foreign origin at least in the shape. The ingredients 
and also the manner of baking are different; they are made richer, 
and with a softer and more brittle crust. The only roll which may 
possibly be of American origin, and which has many names, is the 
roll which is variously named the Parker House Roll, the Albany 
Roll, the Pocket-Book Roll, etc. I have not met with this shape of 
roll in Europe. There are a variety of recipes for this class of rolls. 

PARKER HOUSE ROLL. 

No. I — One-half gallon milk, one-half gallon water, three 
ounces yeast, one ounce salt, one pound butter, ten ounces sugar. 
Set a sponge as usual with the water and yeast, use a good patent 
flour. When the sponge is ready put on the milk, sugar and salt, 
Add the butter when the flour is mixed in, and work it into a nice 
medium dough. Let this dough come up and work over twice, 
then break out in small pieces. Mold round on the board; give a 
little proof; take a small pin and roll flat in the center; take some 
melted butter or lard and brush over; double both sides together 
and set on pans ; they may be set close, to touch in baking or singly. 
The rolls should not be given too much proof. In baking they 
should open and the top curl backwards, if given the right proof. 



Small Breads. 69 

If proved in a moist temperature they require no washing, but 
may be brushed with butter or lard when done. 

No. 2 — One gallon milk> four ounces yeast, six ounces sugar, 
twelve ounces butter, two ounces salt, straight dough. Dissolve 
the yeast with a little lukewarm water and make a batter with some 
flour ; let this batter stand in a warm place for fifteen minutes, then 
proceed to make the dough. Take the milk at 85 degrees Fahr., 
flour and shape to correspond; add sugar and salt to the milk, mix 
and add the butter. Finish mixing, work the dough well; let it 
come up and work over twice, and mould into rolls. 

No. 3. — One gallon white bread sponge, three-fourths pound 
sugar, one pound lard, two ounces salt. Work the sugar and lard 
into the broken-down sponge with more flour; let it come on once, 
and then break out into rolls. 

POCKET BOOK ROLL. 

Half gallon milk and half gallon water, mixed, eight ounces 
yeast, one and one half ounces salt, one pound sugar, one pound 
lard. Set a very slack sponge at 85 degrees Fahr., flour and shop 
at the same temperature. At this temperature the sponge will drop 
in about one hour. Cream the sugar and lard together ; add the salt 
and rub it into some flour, and make a medium firm dough. Let 
it prove up once and proceed to mould into rolls. A dough made in 
this manner can be got ready in a very short time. 

BUTTER ROLLS. 

Ten pounds white sponge, one pound butter, one half ounce salt, 
one half pound sugar; mace and lemon flavor. Work the ingre- 
dients given into the sponge and add more flour to make a medium 
firm dough; let it come up once and make into rolls. Break out 
and mold round on the bench; give some proof; brush with butter 
and roll into long strips ; double up and twist rope fashion ; set 
on pans so they touch lightly; brush again with butter; prove and 
bake in a brisk oven. Bake to nice light brown. 

MILK ROLLS. 

One gallon milk, three ounces yeast, four ounces sugar, four 
ounces lard, two ounces salt. Make the ingredients into a straight 
dough, or set a sponge with the milk and yeast, and work in the 
sugar, lard and salt when it is ready. When the dough is ready 
work it up into "Pocket Book Rolls," or in the shape of the butter 
rolls. Brush over with some melted butter when done and while hot. 



70 Bakers' Bread. 

FINGER ROLLS. 

Finger rolls may be made out of all the foregoing rich roll 
mixtures. They should be made nice and small and weigh not more 
than one ounce in the dough. They should be about five inches 
long, and not more than one inch in diameter; given full proof; 
washed with milk and egg, and baked nice and crisp. 

A very nice roll may be made from this mixture: Two 
quarts milk, four ounces yeast, one pound butter, three 
fourths pound sugar, eight eggs, mace and lemon flavor. Make 
a very light sponge with the milk and yeast ; beat the eggs and sugar 
up light and when the sponge is ready add to the sponge; break 
it up; add more flour, and when half mixed add the butter. Let 
it rise and work over. Let it come on and break out in pieces ; 
ball round and let rest a few minutes, then form into fingers, set 
far enough apart so they do not touch in baking. Before they get 
full proof wash over; set back to finish proving; bake in about 
350 to 400 degrees Fahr., to a nice color. 

NEW ORLEANS ROLLS. 

Twenty pounds of bread sponge, one and one half pounds 
sugar, one and one half pounds butter, one quart milk, two ounces 
salt. Work the milk and the other ingredients into the sponge and 
with more flour make a medium dough. Let it prove up once and 
form into rolls. Break in two-ounce pieces, roll in long strings as 
for pretzels and twist into a long knot ; set on pans so they touch on 
sides and ends in baking; brush ends with melted lard so they sepa- 
rate nicely, give good proof and bake in a medium heat of 350 
degrees Fahr. 

No. 2. — One gallon of milk, one fourth pound of yeast, one 
pound lard, one half pound sugar, one and one half ounces salt, one 
half pint molasses, one half ounce cinnamon and ground 
ginger. Make a straight dough; have the milk at 75 or 
80 degrees Fahr., shop and flour to correspond; make 
a nice smooth dough; let it come up and work over a couple of 
times. Break into pieces of two ounces each; roll out with both 
hands like pretzel; double up and make in twist with narrow ends; 
set on pans single; give half proof; wash over with egg wash; set 
back to finish proving and bake in a brisk oven. 

COLUMBIA ROLL. 

These rolls are also called Frankfort Rolls, because they are the 
most convenient to use for a sandwich with the Frankfort sausage 



Small Breads. Ji 

for outdoor entertainments. The rolls are made in the shape of 
a large finger-roll, a little longer than the well known sausage. They 
were sold in very large quantities during the Columbian Exposition, 
hence the name. The rolls may be made from any cheap roll mix- 
ture, but should be proved very light and have a soft crust. 

One gallon milk; 2 gallons water; 6 ounces yeast; iV 2 pounds 
sugar; i l / 2 pounds lard; 5 ounces salt. Set a sponge with the 
water and yeast at 85 degrees, medium tight. Take it at the first 
drop. Add the milk, sugar and salt; mix half and add the lard; 
make a good smooth dough. Let it rise, and work over twice; 
break in two-ounce pieces; mould in long fingers, set on pans 
to prove so they do not touch; give half proof, wash with milk; 
give full proof and bake in 400 to 450 degrees Fahr. 

PLAIN SANDWICH ROLL. 

One pail water; 6 ounces yeast; V/ 2 pounds sugar; 1V2. pounds 
lard; 5 ounces salt. Make a straight dough with the ingredients, as 
usual, rather slack; work the dough well, and when ready break 
in two-ounce pieces, mould round and set on pans single; give good 
proof and bake in 450 degrees F. ; wash with water, or brush with 
lard while hot. Plain rolls are made in the same manner, only set 
close so they touch in baking. 

GRAHAM ROLLS. 

No. 1. — Two quarts milk; 2 quarts water; 1 pint molasses; 2 
ounces yeast; 2}/ 2 ounces salt. Make a straight dough with an even 
mixture of graham and white flour, rather slack; work over, give a 
little time to come on, and mould into rolls in round or oval shape ; 
set single; give medium proof and bake in a brisk heat; brush with 
melted butter or lard while hot. A dough may be made also out 
of one gallon of white bread sponge, molasses added and graham 
flour used for doughing. 

No. 2. — Half pound lard; 6 pounds whole wheat flour; V 2 pint 
molasses; 3 pounds graham flour; 2 ounces salt; 3 pounds white 
flour; 2 ounces yeast. Make a straight dough with about one gallon 
of milk and water, medium; let come up and work over once; let 
come on and mould on pans set so they touch lightly; brush with 
lard on the sides so they break easily. Prove and bake in good 
heat 400 degrees. 



Buns and Rusks, 



Rolls are often named buns, and buns rusks, and so forth. To 
get a little light in this tangle it would be preferable to name only 
the yeast-raised breads Buns and Rusks; the unfermented Buns or 
Rusk in which baking powder or ammonia is used should be called 
Biscuits. 

For making buns and rusk, which are often made only in very 
small quantities, but richer than the plain rolls, a white milk or water 
sponge can be used, or a plain roll dough. The enriching ingre- 
dients worked in and more flour added, and given time to prove on 
again, before using. 

One quart of milk or water makes about five pounds of sponge 
with the flour added ; instead of setting one quart of sponge, take five 
pounds of it from a larger sponge and work in the ingredients given 
for one quart mixtures; if using off a slow bread sponge for the 
purpose, a little more yeast can be added to make it prove faster. 

For cheaper grades of goods egg-color is used to make the 
goods look richer, but it has often the contrary effect; it should 
be used with care; better none at all than too much of it. The use 
of eggs is for the purpose of giving the goods a flaky lightness, 
which cannot be produced without eggs or by using substitutes. 

One other method of making the different sweet doughs, which 
is practiced in many bakeries, is to set one large milk sponge, and 
make a standard dough, with eggs, butter and sugar in it. Out of 
this dough the various kinds of rusk, buns, and fancy rolls are 
made, and it can be made richer for better goods. Almost every 
kind of fancy bread can be made by this method, with little trouble. 

For all doughs which are enriched with butter and sugar, and 
to which, after raisins, currants and chopped peel or almonds are 
added, it is preferable to use more yeast than in the ordinary bread 
sponges. To make them still stronger they are often used as one- 
half or three-quarter sponge, that is the quantity of liquid used in 
the sponge is one-half to three-quarters more than the quantity 
used for doughing. The sponge is also used straight; that is no 

(72) 



Buns and Rusks. 73 

other liquid is added, only the eggs, sugar and shortening are worked 
in, and more flour, to obtain the right consistency. 

STANDARD DOUGH MIXTURE. 

I give here a choice of standard dough mixtures, for a variety 
of goods, which may be made less expensive by substituting lard or 
use half-and-half, also by using less eggs. 

No. i. — Set a medium sponge with 8 ounces yeast ; I gallon milk 
and water. When the sponge is ready use for doughing, add 2 x / 2 
pounds sugar; 2 quarts of milk; 2]/ 2 pounds butter and lard; eight 
eggs; i l / 2 ounces of salt; for flavor, lemon extract, ground mace. 
Dissolve the sugar in the milk, add salt and eggs, put on the sponge ; 
work in a part of the flour; add the butter and lard and make a 
nice smooth dough; let it come up and work over twice, then it 
will be ready to use. 

No. 2. — For sponge: One gallon milk, 8 ounces yeast. For 
doughing: 2 quarts milk, i}/ 2 pints of eggs, i l / 2 ounces salt, 2*4 
pounds of lard or butter, 2^ pounds of sugar lemon extract, mace. 
Proceed like in the former recipe. 

No. 3. — One gallon milk, 8 ounces yeast, 2 pounds sugar, 2 
pounds of butter, 20 eggs, 1 ounce salt, lemon and mace. Set a slack 
sponge with milk and yeast. When ready beat the eggs and sugar 
together rub the butter in part of the flour add to the sponge and 
make a nice smooth dough. Work over and let it come up twice, 
and it will be ready for use. 

No. 4. — One gallon milk, 12 ounces yeast, 2 l / 2 pounds sugar, 2 x / 2 
pounds butter and lard, V/ 2 ounces salt, mace and lemon extract, I 
quart milk. Set a sponge as usual, with one gallon of milk and the 
yeast. When ready add one quart of milk and the other ingredients. 
Let it come on and work over twice and it is ready for use. This 
mixture contains no eggs, but more yeast. Egg color may be used if 
so desired. 

Here are some smaller mixtures for standard doughs, from 
larger sponges: 

No. 1. — Ten pounds milk sponge, 1% pounds butter, 1 ounce salt, 
I J4 pounds sugar, mace, lemon extract, 4 eggs. 

No. 2. — Ten pounds of sponge, 12 ounces sugar, 12 ounces butter, 
10 eggs, mace, and lemon extract. 

No. 3. — Ten pounds of sponge, 1 pound of butter, 12 ounces 
sugar, 10 eggs, V 2 ounce salt, mace and lemon. 



74 Bakers' Bread. 

No. 4. — Ten pounds sponge, T A pint milk, 1 pound butter and 
lard, 1 pound sugar, lemon, mace. 

All the given mixtures may be made into coffee-cake, pretzels 
and many other cakes, as well as into rusks and buns. 

THE USE OF FRUIT IN CAKES AND BUNS. 

When using fruit in buns or in other yeast-raised cakes, the 
fruit should be prepared the day before using. These fruits are 
often used in a very dry state. They draw moisture from the cakes 
and make the cakes dry. It is better to moisten the quantity of fruit 
used for each day, the day before, with a light syrup or water, 
so the fruit gets soft and regains the natural shape. In this way 
it is more acceptable in cakes and is much better to eat. 

HOT CROSS BUNS. 

Any of the previously printed standard bun mixtures can be 
made into this favorite bun, by the addition of currants, spice and 
flavor. The dough for this bun should be made rather slack. The 
original shape of the bun is the round one, but they are often set 
close together, so they form squares when baked. The cross-cut is 
put on when the buns have about half proof (either with a sharp 
knife, scissors, or with a stamp), and the buns set back to finish 
proving, washed with an egg-wash before baking, and dusted with 
sugar or iced after baking. For a special bun they should be made 
better than the everyday buns, even with less profit; they serve to 
draw trade and are a good advertisement. I give here some special 
recipes : 

No. 1. — Two quarts milk; four ounces yeast; three fourths 
pound sugar ; one and a half pounds butter ; ten eggs ; one half ounce 
salt; one pound currants; lemon flavor; mace. Make a warm 
sponge, rather slack, with the milk, yeast and flour. When the 
sponge is ready add the sugar, eggs, salt and flavor, beaten up; 
then mix in more flour, add the softened butter and finish mixing. 
Put in the currants; let it prove up and work over; let it come up 
half and break up in small pieces, mould round, set on pans, far 
enough apart so they do not touch in baking. Give half proof; 
stamp or cut on the cross; wash with egg-wash; set back to finish 
proving, and bake in a brisk heat, about 400 degrees F. Ice when 
baked, with a good vanilla water icing. 

No. 2. — Two quarts milk; four ounces yeast; two pounds butter; 
one and one fourth pounds sugar; sixteen eggs; one half ounce salt; 



Buns and Rusks. 75 

two pounds currants; lemon and mace. Proceed as in the fore- 
going recipe. 

No. 3. — Ten pounds of milk sponge; one and one half pounds 
butter; twelve ounces sugar; eight eggs; one and one half pounds 
almonds; lemon; mace. Work the ingredients into the sponge; let 
it prove up once and make into buns as in the first recipe. 

PLAIN BUNS. 

Plain buns are made in both round and square shapes, without 
any fruit. It is best not to have the dough too stiff. Break out as 
usual, to sell for about ten cents a dozen ; give good proof and bake 
in a good brisk oven. When baked they are left plain; often they 
are iced like the flat cross buns ; while others brush them with but- 
ter and dust sugar and cinnamon over them while hot. 

CURRANT BUNS. 

Take any of the plain standard dough mixtures, roll out in long 
strips, sprinkle with currants, press in the currants with the rolling- 
pin, dust over with a mixture of powdered sugar and cinnamon, and 
roll up into a double coil, flatten and cut up in narrow strips, set on 
pans close together with the cut side up. Give good proof; bake, 
and wash with melted butter and dust with sugar, or ice while hot. 

PLAIN CURRANT BUNS. 

Take five pounds of plain bun or roll dough ; work in one pound 
of well washed currants; flavor with lemon; break out in small 
pieces; mould round; set on pans so they touch lightly in baking. 
Wash with milk ; prove, and bake in a good heat. 

SULTANA BUNS. 

One quart of milk; three ounces yeast; eight eggs; twelve 
ounces sugar ; one pound butter ; lemon and mace ; one and one half 
pounds sultana raisins. Set a light sponge with the milk and yeast, 
and when ready work in the other ingredients; put in the raisins 
the last thing; let it come up and work over twice, and break out 
into buns. They may be molded round or in the oval shape, just 
like the other buns, and also be made in large size, to sell from five 
to ten cents each. Ice after baking. 

GERMAN ALMOND BUNS. 

To five pounds of a rich standard dough add eight ounces of 
finely chopped almonds; mould into long ovals; set on pans and 



76 Bakers' Bread. 

flatten out; set singly, so they do not touch in baking; give half 
proof; wash with egg-wash and sprinkle with chopped almonds. 
Finish proving, and bake in a medium heat so the almonds do not 
burn; dust with powdered sugar when done. 

GERMAN STREUSEL BUNS. 

Use a good standard dough or a flat cross bun mixture with 
the currants in it. Break out and mould round on board; pin out 
into flat ovals ; set on pans so they touch lightly on the sides ; wash 
over with milk, and sprinkle thick with "streusel," finish proving 
and bake in a good heat. When baked brush with melted butter and 
dust with powdered sugar and cinnamon. 

Streusel is also used for coffee cake, and is made of different 
qualities. The ingredients are formed into a soft, crumbly paste; 
this is rubbed through a coarse sieve or a colander and formed into 
little globular pieces, which are given a little time to dry, and are 
used on the cakes in this manner. 

STREUSEL. 

No. I.— One pound of sugar; eight ounces of butter; one and 
one fourth pounds of flour; two ounces chopped almonds; lemon 
extract and cinnamon. Mix the flour and sugar and almonds to- 
gether; melt the butter and add it to the mixture. If still too dry, 
sprinkle a little milk over, to form a soft dry paste. Rub into little 
globules and spread on the cakes. 

No. 2. — One half pound almond paste; one half pound butter; 
one half pound sugar; one half pound flour; lemon and cinnamon 
extract. Rub the almond paste and sugar together, then add the 
butter. When this is incorporated, mix in the flour. 

No. 3. — One pound of flour; one half pound of sugar; six ounces 
butter ; one egg ; lemon, cinnamon and almond flavor. Mix together 
and put away for use. 

FLORADORA BUNS. 

Take ten pounds of milk sponge or plain bun dough; add three 
fourths pound of sugar ; eight eggs ; one and one half pounds of but- 
ter; one pound of cocoanut; eight ounces citron; eight ounces 
orange peel; vanilla flavor. Work the sugar, eggs and butter into 
the sponge; add enough flour to make a medium dough; then add 
the peel and cocoanut. If shredded cocoanut is used, it should be 
chopped fine. Let the dough prove again and break in two-cent 
pieces; mould round, and then form in fingers or little oblong 



Buns and Rusks. 77 

loaves ; set on pans so they touch only on the sides ; prove and wash 
with a good egg-wash; sprinkle with long shredded almonds, and 
bake in a medium heat of about 350 F. Brush with a thin vanilla 
water icing when baked and while hot. 

BISMARCK BUNS. 

Take a good plain bun dough and mould up into round balls, 
let it prove on ; pull apart in the center lightly and fill the impression 
thus made with a little good fruit jam; pinch the sides over the jam 
to enclose it, and set on pans, the pinched side down. Set close 
enough so they touch in baking; brush over with melted butter and 
set to prove. Give good proof and bake in a brisk heat. While hot 
brush again with butter, and dust with sugar and cinnamon. 

OPERA BUNS. 

Take ten pounds of standard dough ; roll out into long flat strips 
of ten inches wide and one quarter inch thick; brush over with 
melted butter and sprinkle powdered sugar over; roll up into one 
long roll; flatten and brush over with butter; cut into strips and 
set on pans, cut side up, to touch on the sides ; wash over with milk 
and sprinkle with chopped blanched peanuts. Prove and bake in 
medium oven. Ice over when done. 

MARTHA WASHINGTON BUNS. 

Take a rich standard dough; roll out in long strips about six 
inches wide and half an inch thick ; wash over with milk and spread 
along the center the nut paste, given at the close of this recipe ; fold 
over the sides and form a long strand about one inch thick; cut 
into pieces four inches long and place on pans side by side; brush 
each side with melted butter, so they separate nicely, when baked. 
Set to prove; wash with egg-wash and sprinkle coarse sugar on the 
top and bake in a good heat. 

NUT FILLING. 

Set one pound of brown sugar to boil with a little water. When 
boiled down enough so it forms a thread if tested between the 
fingers, add eight ounces of chopped walnuts and stir in eight whole 
eggs beaten up ; take off the fire and add enough sweet cake crumbs 
to form a soft paste ; flavor with cinnamon and cloves. This filling 
may also be used for nut cake and in puff-paste tartlets. 



78 Bakers' Bread. 

COCOANUT BUNS. 

To five pounds of standard dough add one pound of freshly 
grated cocoanut; with vanilla. Work this dough up into long ovals, 
pointed at the ends ; do not pan too close ; prove ; wash ; bake in a 
good heat Color to a nice light brown in the oven some shredded 
cocoanut. Ice the buns and sprinkle some of the browned cocoanut 
on the icing before it becomes dry. 

CARAWAY AND ANISE BUNS. 

Take any of the bun mixtures; add lemon extract or grated 
lemon rind. To five pounds of dough add one ounce of anise or 
caraway seed, and form into buns either round or oval. They may 
also be made into long strips like zwieback, and toasted when one 
day old. These buns are not iced ; they are better plain. There are 
a great many other mixtures, with baking powder and ammonia, 
but most of them are in reality the common drop and fancy cake 
mixtures stiffened up with more flour, or with part of the milk out. 

RUSKS. 

Rusks are very much like buns, but approach nearer to the 
French Brioches, which should be the right name for them. Like 
the Brioches, they are made very rich, with plenty of butter and 
eggs, but contain very little sugar. The recipes are almost identical 
with those for Brioches. Rusks should be of a delicate lightness 
and very close grained. Three recipes are given: 

No. I. — One quart of milk; two ounces yeast; two pounds of 
butter ; eighteen eggs ; four ounces sugar. Set a medium sponge with 
the milk and yeast. When the sponge is ready, cream the butter 
with some flour; beat up the eggs and sugar; put on the sponge and 
make a medium slack dough. Let it come up and work over ; set in 
a cool place to stiffen up for one hour. Break into small pieces and 
mould round on pans. Rusks are made round and baked single; 
they are also set close to form squares when baked. One other 
favorite shape is moulded like the Parker House Roll, then it is 
cut on the folded side, which looks very nice when they are baked. 

No. 2. — Five pounds of milk sponge; one and one half pounds 
of butter ; twenty- four eggs ; five ounces sugar. 

No. 3. — Five pounds of milk sponge; one pound of butter; six 
ounces sugar; 12 eggs. Work the ingredients into the sponge as in 
the former recipes; prove and bake as directed. For the plainer 
mixtures, use the standard doughs. For anise rusks add one ounce 
of seeds to five pounds of dough. 



Buns and Rusks. 79 

ENGLISH BATH BUNS. 

This bun is not moulded like other buns ; it is broken from the 
dough or dropped on the pan with a spoon and flattened slightly 
so to have a rough rock-like appearance when baked. To obtain 
this, some bakers roll and fold in the butter as for puffpaste; others 
drop the hard, cold butter in some flour and add this last to the 
proved-up dough with the fruit and peel. The bun is made larger 
than other buns — selling two and three for ten cents. 

Four pounds flour, four ounces of yeast, nearly three pints of 
milk, twelve ounces of sugar, one pound of butter, four eggs, the 
grated rind of one lemon, eight ounces of currants, eight ounces of 
chopped peel. Set a sponge with three pounds of flour and one 
quart of milk, and the yeast. When ready add the rest of the 
milk, sugar, eggs and flour; then add the cold butter dropped in 
small pieces in some flour, also the peel and currants, let it prove 
on a little, then drop on the pans as suggested above; spread out 
some and wash with a good eggwash, sprinkle with coarse granu- 
lated sugar, or with crushed loaf sugar, give good proof and bake 
in a medium hot oven to a nice color. 

In place of making an extra sponge, you may take five pounds 
of milk sponge, or the same amount of plain roll dough, and work 
in the ingredients given in the above recipe. The mixture should 
be rather slack, just like a rich cake dough. A less expensive bun 
of this kind can be made by omitting the eggs, using lard in place 
of butter, rolling the dough out flat as for currant buns or snails; 
brush it over with lard, sprinkle with currants and peel and roll up ; 
then break the roll in pieces ; set on pans and cut up the top with the 
scraper to make it rough-looking, then finish in same way as given 
above. 



Zwieback and Stollen. 



The standard dough mixtures as well as the rusk mixtures, will 
make a variety of zwieback, and give bakers a choice in quality as 
well. 

Zwieback is one of the most delicious German table breads, if 
properly made. It should be prepared fresh every day, baked once 
and toasted or dried freshly in small batches three or four times a 
day. There is as much difference between a stale and a freshly- 
toasted zwieback as there is between a stale and a fresh-baked roll. 
Zwieback loses much by being exposed to the air for some time ; 
like plain bread toast it tastes best when newly toasted. By observ- 
ing this point in making zwieback, many bakers have worked up a 
nice trade in this style of goods and made it a winner. 

HAMBURG ZWIEBACK. 

Two quarts of milk; four ounces of yeast; one and a half 
pounds of sugar; one and a half pounds of butter; eight eggs; 
lemon and cinnamon extract. Make a straight dough, rather slack, 
with the ingredients given. Set in a warm place to rise. When 
half risen, throw the dough on the bench, and work over in small 
pieces, not larger than one pound, put back to prove on again, and 
work over in the same manner. Repeat this four or five times, till 
the dough is ready. Break out and mould on pans in round balls, 
set single, so they do not touch in baking; give good proof, and 
bake in a medium heat to a nice light brown color. Let them stand 
from six to eight hours to cool, then cut through the center with a 
sharp knife, set on pans and dry-toast to a nice brown in a cool 
oven; set the tops and bottoms together and put away for use. 

ZWIEBACK NO. 2. 

One gallon of milk; six ounces of yeast; one pound of butter; 
one pound of sugar; one-half ounce of salt; lemon and cinnamon 
extract. Set a slack sponge with milk and yeast. When ready 

(80) 



Zwieback, etc. 81 

cream the butter and sugar and add to the sponge. Make a medium 
soft dough ; let it come up and work over ; let it come on once more 
and work up into zwieback like the former recipe. 

HAMBURG KINDER ZWIEBACK. 

These zwieback are made without sugar; they are used for 
children and invalids. One quart of milk, one quart of water, 
four ounces of yeast, one and one-half pounds of butter, one and 
one-half pounds of potato starch or cornstarch, two ounces of salt. 
Set a sponge with the milk, water and yeast, using wheat flour. 
When ready rub the butter and starch to a cream, add this to the 
sponge with the salt, and add more wheat flour to make a medium 
firm dough. Let it come up and work over, then break out in small 
half-ounce pieces. Mould round and set on pans single, prove and 
bake like the other zwieback; cut and toast tops and bottoms and 
put away for use. 

OTHER GERMAN ZWIEBACK. 

Two quarts milk; four ounces yeast; eight eggs; three fourths 
pound of sugar; three fourths pound butter; mace and lemon ex- 
tract; one half ounce salt. Set a light warm sponge with the 
milk and yeast. When ready put on the other ingredients and make 
a nice smooth dough. Let come up and work over twice; break out 
into small one-half ounce pieces ; mould round and then in small 
fingers about three inches long; set close together on pans so the 
fingers touch each other on the sides and form one long roll the 
length of the pan ; give good proof and bake. Let stand for one day, 
then cut in slices; put on pans and toast to a nice brown. If the 
oven is too warm and the zwieback takes too much color before 
thoroughly dry, the zwieback is set to cool and returned to the oven 
to finish drying. 

VIENNA ZWIEBACK. 

Take the standard dough or the rusk mixtures, form into long 
ovals, finger shape, bake single and split and toast dry, tops and 
bottoms. 

HUNGARIAN OR PRESBURG ZWIEBACK. 

Make like the Vienna, in long fingers, but have the ends larger 
than the center, almost like Ladyfingers; prove and bake like other 
zwieback, cut in halves and dry-toast; make a light meringue icing, 
beat up five whites of eggs, add one pound of powdered sugar and 
mix in some chopped almonds; spread on the toasted side of the 
twieback, and set back in the oven to dry. 



82 Bakers' Bread. 

With a variety of icing the zwieback may be made into vanilla, 
cinnamon and chocolate zwieback. Stale rusk and buns may also be 
converted into zwieback, by toasting and icing. A very nice sweet 
toast which is much sold in bakeries is made from a plain sponge 
cake mixture, baked in long, half round forms, with aniseed in it, 
It is cut and toasted like other zwieback. Stale pound cake also 
makes a nice fancy toast and sells well. 



The Stollen is the German holiday fruitcake. Like the Ameri^ 
can fruitcakes it is improved by age. For this reason the German 
housewife gets busy a month before Christmas to make the stollen 
for the holidays. A good rich yeast-raised dough is made for this 
purpose, and the proportions for a good grade of stollen are about 
one pound of fruit for the pound of flour. Some stollen are made 
with mixed fruit, and others with almonds only, and they are 
divided into different grades, according to the richness of the 
doughs and the quantity and quality of fruit used in it. 

GERMAN STOLLEN. 

One quart of milk; three ounces yeast; one and one fourth 
pounds butter; three fourth pound sugar; eight eggs; one pound 
sultana raisins ; one pound malaga raisins ; two pounds of currants ; 
one pound of citron and orange peel ; lemon extract and mace. Set 
a sponge with the milk and yeast. When the sponge is ready, beat 
up the eggs and sugar, add the flavor and put on the sponge; 
break it up well and work in some flour; add the butter and more 
flour to make a firm dough; add the fruit the last thing. Let the 
dough prove up well and work over, then scale into pieces; mould 
into long shape like the Vienna loaf, then take a long rolling-pin, 
press down along the center, as for split loaves, flatten out a little, 
have the bottom side larger than the top, and fold over on the side 
like the pocket-book rolls. Set to prove on pans ; give about three- 
quarter proof, brush over with melted butter and bake in a medium 
heat of 350 degrees F. When done brush again with butter and 
dust at once with a mixture of cinnamon and powdered sugar, as 
much as the butter will take up. 

The stollen are made from one to ten pounds, and are sold by 
weight. 

ALMOND STOLLEN. 

Take the same mixture as given above ; leave out the fruit, and 
add in place of it two pounds of sweet almonds and four ounces of 



Zwieback, etc. 83 

bitter almonds, blanched and chopped fine. Prove and bake like the 
other stollen. 

The stollen may be made of a lighter grade, less expensive ; and 
any of the standard dough mixtures, stiffened up with more flour 
and with fruit or almonds added, will make a good stollen. It is 
customary here to wash the stollen with an egg-wash before 
baking, and ice after baking. 

PLAIN STOLLEN. 

Two quarts of milk; four ounces yeast; ten eggs; three fourths 
pound of sugar; one and a half pounds butter; two pounds raisins; 
one pound currants; one half pound citron; mace and lemon ex- 
tract. Make a light sponge with three pints of milk and the yeast. 
When the sponge is ready put on the other pint of milk, sugar, 
eggs and flavor; add the butter and make a medium firm dough; 
work in the fruit; let it rise and work over; scale and proceed like 
in the other recipes. 

A richer grade may be made from the following recipe : 
Five pounds milk sponge; five eggs; one pound butter; three 
fourths pound of sugar ; one pound of sultana raisins and one pound 
of currants; one half pound of chopped almonds; one half pound of 
citron; the grated rind of two lemons; one eighth ounce mace. 
Make a medium firm dough with the ingredients given; wash the 
stollen before and after baking with melted butter, and dust with 
powdered sugar and cinnamon. 

PLAIN STOLLEN NO. 2. 

Ten pounds of standard dough; two pounds of raisins; one 
pound of currants; tighten up the dough with more flour and work 
in the fruit. The stollen may be washed with an egg-wash before 
baking, and iced plain when done. Another way is to sprinkle with 
browned chopped almonds before the icing gets dry. 



Coffee Cakes, Etc. 



The central part of Germany is the home of the coffeecake, and 
there it is made to perfection. The cakes are not made as thick as 
the American coffeecake, not more than one inch in thickness ; the 
cakes are washed thickly with melted butter before and after 
baking; and the sugar and the melted butter form a tasty crust 
which melts on the tongue. 

Coffeecake is made in a flat shape, either in a full sheet, the size 
of the baking pans, or in smaller squares, and also in round shapes 
the size of the layer cake tins. The best known coffeecakes are the 
Streusel, Almond, Cinnamon and Raisin or fruit coffeecake or 
Kuchen. There are a variety of other cakes which are used as 
coffeecakes, but generally are not counted in this class. There are 
potatocakes, cheesecakes, creamcakes, and all the fresh fruit cakes, 
which are made mostly when the fruits are in season. Other large 
yeast-raised cakes are the Kauglauff or Gugelhupf, which are known 
in Germany as Napfkuchen, in France as Babas, and in Vienna as 
Gugelhupf. These cakes are baked in deep forms, plain and scal- 
lopped, with a large tube in the center. They are one of the oldest 
and best known coffeecakes. I will give some recipes later on. The 
other variety of coffeecakes consists of the rolled-in goods. For 
this grade the plain cake dough is enriched by rolling in cold butter 
in the proportion of one pound of butter to five pounds of standard 
dough. This makes a nice leafy dough, almost like puff paste. For 
some other kinds of those goods the butter is added to each indi- 
vidual piece, and rolled in in this manner. Out of these doughs are 
made a variety of pretzels (Blunderpretzel), Snails, Wreaths, 
Crowncake (Kranzkuchen) and many other smaller fancy rolls. 

GERMAN COFFEECAKES. 

One quart milk; four ounces yeast; twelve ounces sugar; one 
pound of butter; twelve eggs; lemon and mace. Set a light warm 
sponge with yeast and milk; when ready add eggs and sugar well 
beaten, also the flavor ; break up the sponge, add the flour, mix half 

(84) 



Coffee Cakes, etc. 85 

and put in the butter and make a nice smooth dough, rather slack. 
Let it come up and work over twice. Scale into pieces and roll out 
into large or small flat cakes. Brush with butter, set to prove, 
sprinkle with streusel or almonds and bake in a brisk oven. 

Coffeecake should be baked in a good even heat of about 350 
degrees to 400 degrees F. ; a flash heat is apt to color too much 
before the cake is done. If the oven bakes more on the bottom 
than on the top another pan may be slipped under to prevent 
burning. 

COFFEECAKE NO. 2. 

Five pounds of milk sponge; twelve ounces butter; ten ounces 
sugar ; five eggs ; lemon extract ; mace. Work this into the sponge, 
add more flour to form a slack dough; beat it up well and set to 
prove. Let it come up and work over ; scale and make into cakes. 

For Almond Coffeecake add to the above mixture one pound of 
sweet almonds and one ounce of bitter almonds, blanched and 
chopped fine. Sprinkle the almonds on top before baking, or bake 
first, then ice over and sprinkle with slightly browned chopped 
almonds before the icing gets dry. 

PLAIN COFFEECAKE. 

Three quarts milk; eight ounces yeast; six eggs; thirty ounces 
sugar; thirty ounces butter and lard; lemon and mace; one ounce 
salt. Proceed as in the former recipes; or make a straight dough 
with the ingredients given. 

RAISIN COFFEECAKE. 

To five pounds of plain coffeecake add two pounds of sultana 
raisins, or one pound of raisins and one of currants ; almonds, citron 
and orange peel may also be added for variety, and the cake named 
accordingly, for fruitcakes the top may be left plain, or sprinkled 
with almonds and iced over to suit the taste. 

GERMAN POTATO COFFEECAKE. 

The potatoes used for this cake are boiled whole, then peeled 
and set aside to get cold; they are grated and added to the dough 
when the flour is all worked in. A good strong lemon and mace 
flavor goes very nicely with this cake. 

One quart milk; four ounces yeast; three fourth pound sugar; 
one pound butter; four eggs; two pounds grated and boiled pota- 
toes ; one half ounce salt ; lemon and mace. Set a light sponge with 



86 Bakers' Bread. 

the milk and yeast. When the sponge is ready make a nice slack 
dough; add the potatoes the last thing. Let prove up and work 
over once, then scale and roll into flat sheets the size of the pan. 
Brush over with warm, melted butter ; give some proof, then take a 
pastry j agger, or dough wheel, and mark the sheets into squares, 
to sell for five cents each. Give good proof and bake in a good 
brisk oven. Wash again with butter. When done dust with pow- 
dered sugar. This is a very nice light cake, which is sold in large 
quantities in Saxon bakeries. 

The coffeecakes can be made less expensive by reducing the 
ingredients, also by using half lard instead of all butter. Fewer 
eggs may be used or coloring substituted. For good coffeecakes it 
is better to use the recipes as given. The standard doughs are also 
used for coffeecakes, but with a slacker dough. 

For the fresh-fruit coffeecakes the dough is rolled out about 
one half inch in thickness, given a little proof, then the fruit is laid 
on. The apples are cut in thin slices, peaches and plums are put 
on in halves, the cherries and the other berries are spread on whole, 
sugar is added and the cakes given some more proof, and then 
they are baked in a good brisk heat. Some bakers use a cream on 
top of the fruit, something like a custard or pastry cream, and the 
cakes are baked with this custard, which makes a very nice cake. 

FRENCH COFFEECAKES. 

For French coffeecakes, tea rolls, and butter pretzel or "blunder 
pretzels," a plain standard or bun dough is used, into which more 
butter or butter and lard is rolled in, as for puffpaste, which give 
these goods a flaky and leafy appearance when baked. To each 
pound of ready dough take from three to six ounces of butter to 
roll in, or make a special dough in the following manner: One 
quart milk; four ounces yeast; ten ounces butter; ten ounces sugar; 
eight eggs; lemon extract; mace. Make a straight dough, or set a 
sponge as usual, with the ingredients given. Make the dough about 
medium, and let it come up and work over twice ; set in a cool place 
to stiffen up for one hour. Then proceed to roll in more butter. 
For each pound of dough take four ounces of firm butter, cold and 
of the same consistency as the dough. Roll the dough in a long 
sheet, about three times as long as it is wide. Spread the butter in 
little pats over two thirds of the dough, fold in the other third left 
bare over half of the buttered part, and then fold the other part on 
the top of this, to enclose the butter. Roll out again into a thin 



Coffee Cakes, etc. Sj 

sheet, fold again into three, set away for fifteen minutes to rest and 
cool, then give two more turns of three folds each, and the dough 
is ready for use. 

All rolled-in goods should be treated cool and not proved in a 
very warm closet or in steam, because the heat would cause the 
butter to run and make the goods fat. The ordinary temperature of 
the shop is sufficient, but keep covered and out of drafts, to pre- 
vent crusting. 

These cakes are made in different sizes, and sell at five and ten 
cents each, and also three for ten cents. Take the prepared 
dough, roll into a sheet about half an inch thick and eighteen inches 
long, cut into long strips one inch wide and the length of the sheet; 
give each strip a twist and form into a coil ; fold the end under ; 
set on pans so the cakes do not touch in baking; give good proof; 
wash with eggwash and bake in a brisk heat. Ice with a vanilla 
water icing when done. 

POTATO CREAM CAKE. 

Two and one half pounds of boiled and grated potatoes; eight 
ounces flour; twelve ounces butter; one half pint of cream or milk; 
six ounces of sugar ; eight eggs ; a little powdered cinnamon. Roll 
out a bottom for the cake from plain cake dough ; press up well on 
the sides and set to prove. While proving prepare the potato cream. 
Separate the eggs, beat the yolks and sugar together, and add 
gradually to the grated potatoes; sift on the flour; beat up again; 
mix in the melted butter and flavor. Mix in the whites of eggs, 
beaten stiff; spread this cream over the cake evenly about one inch 
thick, and bake in a good heat. Sift over with powdered sugar 
and cinnamon when done. 

FRENCH TEA ROLLS. 

From the prepared dough roll a sheet about one-half inch 
thick and cut in strips eight inches long and three-quarters of an 
inch wide; give each strip a spiral twist and double up in rope 
fashion; set on pans so they touch lightly on the sides in baking; 
let prove ; wash over and bake in a good heat ; finish like the coffee- 
cake. These cakes sell at two for five cents, and also at twelve 
cents the dozen. 

BUTTER PRETZEL. 

The pretzels are made to sell at five and ten cents each, and 
also three for ten cents. Take a sheet of the prepared dough, cut 



88 Bakers' Bread. 

into long strips of fourteen inches, and one inch wide; give each 
strip a twist and form into pretzels; set on pans; prove; wash 
and bake like the other cake ; ice when done. 

GERMAN KRANZKUCHEN. 

There are several ways of making these cakes; they range in 
prices from ten to twenty-five cents and more. 

No. I — Take a piece of the prepared dough, roll out one inch 
thick and cut in strips eighteen inches long and two inches wide; 
give the strip a twist, and form into a large ring; join the ends 
nicely together ; set on pans ; prove, wash and sprinkle with chopped 
almonds; bake in a medium heat; ice over when done, or wash 
with butter, and dust with powdered sugar and cinnamon. 

No. 2 — Take a piece of standard dough and roll into a thin 
sheet, say one-quarter inch thick, eighteen inches long and ten 
inches wide. Cream together four ounces of butter and six ounces 
of sugar; flavor with lemon and mace; spread this on the sheet; 
sprinkle with Sultana raisins, currants and chopped citron; roll the 
sheet up like a jelly roll; set on pan and form a large ring; flatten 
a little and set to prove. (This is for a large size Kranzkuchen, 
but may be made in smaller sizes if desired.) When half proved, 
take a sharp knife or a pair of scissors, and cut the top in zigzag 
shape ; cut almost to the center of the roll ; finish proving and bake 
in a medium heat. Brush with melted butter and dust with sugar 
and cinnamon when done. The cake may also be washed before 
baking, and sprinkled with shredded almonds and iced after baking. 

GERMAN CHEESECAKES (QUARKKUCHEN) . 

Three pounds of dry cheese curd ; eight eggs ; eight ounces 
sugar; six ounces butter; one half pint milk; three ounces flour; 
six ounces sultana raisins ; six ounces currants ; four ounces chopped 
almonds ; a little saffron ; one lemon rind ; mace. Roll out the bottom 
for the cake from plain cake dough; let it come up well on the 
sides ; roll about one quarter inch thick. Set to prove. While it is 
proving, separate the eggs, dissolve the saffron, and rub the cheese 
through a sieve; mix in by degrees the yolks, sugar and flour, add 
the saffron, mace and the grated rind of the lemon; also the melted 
butter and the fruit, and then the whites of egg beaten to a froth. 
Spread the mixture evenly over the pan, dust some powdered cin- 
namon over, and bake in a medium heat. Sift powdered sugar over 
when done. The mixture will puff up in baking and fall a little 
when done, but without detriment to the cake. 



Coffee Cakes, etc. 89 

No. 2. — Three pounds cheese; eight ounces sugar; six ounces 
butter; three ounces flour; eight ounces of currants; four yolks; 
four whole eggs; one fourth pint milk; lemon flavor and mace. Roll 
out a sheet as in the previous recipe; rub the cheese through a 
sieve; cream the butter, sugar and eggs and mix into the cheese; 
add the flour and flavor, and thin up with the milk. Spread on the 
cake; sprinkle the currants on top and dust with cinnamon. Bake 
in a brisk heat. Sift over with powdered sugar when done. 

GERMAN CREAM CAKE. 

This cake is similar to the cheesecake, and is baked in the same 
manner. The sheet is rolled out thin and proved, and the mixture 
is spread on. Melt eight ounces of butter, take off the salt and let 
it cool again. Beat into it by degrees six yolks and one whole egg ; 
add five ounces of sugar, one ounce of bitter almonds, chopped very 
fine; add the grated rind of one lemon, flavor with mace and cin- 
namon. Spread this mixture evenly over the cakes, sprinkle with 
sultana raisins and some finely sliced almonds, and bake in a 
medium oven. Dust with powdered sugar when done. 

No. 2. — One quart milk; sixteen eggs; four ounces butter; one 
and one half pounds sugar; four ounces cornstarch; four ounces 
sultana raisins; four ounces currants; vanilla flavor. Roll out the 
sheet and set to prove. Set the milk and butter and one pound of 
sugar to boil. Mix the other sugar and starch together and stir in 
the eggs by degrees; beat it up well, and when the milk is boiling 
pour it on the starch, sugar and eggs ; add the vanilla ; sprinkle the 
currants and raisins on the bottom of the cake; spread the cream 
over evenly. Bake in a medium heat to a nice color and dust with 
powdered sugar when done. 

WREATHS. 

Wreaths are made in ten and fifteen-cent sizes. They may be 
made from the prepared dough, and also from the plain standard 
doughs. Take any of the doughs mentioned and roll out into one 
inch thickness; cut into strips from eighteen to twenty-four inches 
long and one inch wide; take three or four strips and plait into a 
long, even strand; form this into a ring or wreath, join the ends 
and set on the pan; prove and wash over; sprinkle with shredded 
almonds and bake to a nice color. Ice with a vanilla or lemon icing 
when done and while hot. 



90 Bakers? Bread, 

SNAILS. 

Take some prepared dough; roll into a sheet about a quarter- 
inch thick, twelve inches wide and of any length; brush over with 
butter, and dredge with powdered sugar; sprinkle with currants, 
cinnamon and finely chopped citron or almonds. Roll up the sheet 
like a jelly roll; brush the roll over with butter and cut up with 
a sharp knife into half inch slices; set on pans the cut side up, so 
they touch lightly on the sides in baking; prove; wash over and 
bake in a brisk heat; ice over or dust with powdered sugar when 
done. The other way of making the snails is to take plain standard 
or bun dough, roll out as in the former recipe; brush over with 
lard or butter; sprinkle with sugar and fruit and cut like the 
others, but set closer together, so they bake in squares. Brushing 
the roll with lard on the outside before cutting makes the cakes 
separate nicely when baked. They may be dipped in granulated 
sugar before baking, or iced afterwards. 

Either shape may be made from the same roll. Cut the slices 
one inch thick; take a small rolling-pin, about twice as thick as a 
pencil, press down in the center in such a way that both cut sides 
turn up and form two oval coils; set on pans so they touch lightly 
in baking; prove and bake like other snails. These rolls can be 
made to sell at ten and twenty cents per dozen. 

Another way is to make a roll of the dough of a smaller diam- 
eter, flatten it some, and cut into three-inch pieces; set the slices 
on pans, and on each side cut half through, about one inch long, 
turn the cut side out and set to prove; wash and bake like the 
other buns. A much cheaper article can be made from the plain 
roll doughs and from common bun dough, using lard instead of 
butter. All the shapes may be made, as given above, and of a nice 
appearance. In localities where quantity rules above quality this 
makes a nice variety of rolls and buns, larger pieces but inferior 
in quality. 

gugelhupf; napfkuchen; baba. 

The best grades of these large yeast-raised cakes are made like 
rich pound cakes ; the butter and sugar are creamed, the beaten eggs, 
yeast and flour added, then they are filled in forms, raised and 
baked. For the other grades a sponge is set as usual, and the in- 
gredients are added as in other cakes. 



Coffee Cakes, etc. gt 

GERMAN NAPFKUCHEN. 

No. I— One pound six ounces of flour; one-half pound of 
sugar; two ounces of yeast; one pound of butter; the grated rind 
of one lemon; sixteen yolks of eggs; twelve whites of eggs; four 
ounces of shredded almonds. Dissolve the yeast in a little warm 
milk; cream the butter and sugar very light; add the yolks by de- 
grees, then the lemon rind, and yeast, and mix in the flour; draw 
in the whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Brush the cakemould 
thick with butter and sprinkle with the shredded almonds; fill the 
mould about half with the mixture and set to rise till the mould 
is nearly full; bake for one hour in a medium heat to a nice brown 
color; dust with powdered sugar and cinnamon while hot, or ice 
with a vanilla or lemon icing. 

BERLIN NAPFKUCHEN ( PLAIN). 

Two and one-half pounds of flour; one-half pint of milk; two 
ounces yeast; six eggs; six ounces sugar; eight ounces butter; one 
pint warm milk; one-half pound raisins and currants; two ounces 
sliced almonds; lemon extract; mace. Set a warm sponge with 
the half pint of milk, yeast and parts of the flour. When ready add 
the one pint of warm milk, also the eggs and sugar; work well in 
the flour and butter, raisins and currants; work the dough very 
nice and smooth; let it rise up and work over. Brush the form 
with butter and sprinkle with the sliced almonds; fill the mould 
half with the mixture; let rise and bake in a medium hot oven. 
When done turn out of the moulds, brush with butter and dust with 
powdered sugar and cinnamon. 

BERLIN NAPFKUCHEN (PLAIN). 

No. 2 — One pound of flour; two ounces yeast (dissolved) ; four 
ounces sugar; lemon extract and mace; 4 whole eggs; four ounces 
raisins ; four ounces currants ; four yolks ; three ounces citron ; three 
almonds. Prepare like No. 1. 

DRESDEN BABA. 

No. 3 — One pound butter; eleven whole eggs; four yolks; one- 
half pound sugar ; the grated rind of one lemon ; two pounds of flour ; 
one-half pint of cream ; two ounces of yeast. Prepare like No. 1. 

FRENCH BABA AND SAVARIN CAKES. 

The French and also the Polish babas are made in the same 
manner as the German mixtures for No. 1, 2, 3, with this difference, 



92 Bakers' Bread. 

for the French Baba only sultana or seeded Malaga raisins are 
used; and in the Polish Baba mixture, raisins, citron and currants 
are used, with a strong flavor and color of India saffron. The 
cakes are iced or dusted with powdered sugar when done. The 
French Savarin cake is also made out of the same mixtures, only 
the fruit is left out. This cake after it is baked is saturated with 
a thin syrup which contains Maraschino liquor and is served in 
this manner. The babas are baked in plain straight sided form 
with a wide center tube in them. 

AMERICAN KAUGLAUFF, OR BUNDKUCHEN. 

No. I — One quart milk; two and one-half ounces yeast; four 
pounds of flour; twelve eggs; one pound of butter; one pound of 
sugar ; twelve pounds raisins ; one-half pound currants ; four ounces 
citron; lemon extract and mace. 

No. 2 — One quart of milk, three ounces yeast; four pounds of 
flour; sixteen eggs; twelve ounces sugar; one and one-half pounds 
of butter ; one-half pound of sultana raisins ; four ounces citron ; 
four ounces of chopped almonds. For both recipes set a warm 
sponge with one pint of milk, the yeast and part of the flour. When 
the sponge is ready add the other pint of milk and work in the 
flour; then add the other ingredients in the following manner: 
Cream the sugar and butter, add the beaten eggs and flavor and 
work this in the dough, then add the fruit the last thing. Let 
this dough come up and work down ; butter the forms well ; sprinkle 
with almonds; fill in the mixture; give good proof and bake in a 
medium heat. Ice with lemon or vanilla icing, or dust with powdered 
sugar while hot. 

The Bundkuchen can be made also from any of the standard 
doughs, by making the doughs richer and very slack, or from a milk 
sponge, for which I give here some recipes : 

No. I — Take five pounds of standard dough; work in three- 
quarter pound of butter; six ounces of sugar; eight eggs; one-half 
pound of raisins ; one-half pound of currants. Let this dough come 
up once and work down, and fill in the moulds like the other 
mixtures. Bake in the same manner. 

No. 2 — Take eight pounds of milk sponge, work in one pound of 
sugar; one pound of butter; eight eggs; flavor with lemon and 
mace, and add one pound raisins; one pound currants; one-half 
pound citron. Add a little more flour to make a very slack dough; 



Coffee Cakes, etc. 93 

let come up once; fill in buttered forms; prove and bake like the 
other cakes. 

No. 3 — Take five pounds of milk sponge; one pound butter; 
three-quarter pound sugar; one and one-half pint eggs; one-half 
pound of chopped almonds; flavor with lemon and mace. Beat the 
ingredients into the sponge. Butter the moulds and fill the mixture 
in at once ; let rise and bake like the German Napfkuchen. 

All these mixtures should be made very slack, — just thick 
enough so the fruit does not sink in baking. 



Doughnuts, Muffins and 
Griddle Cakes. 



YEAST-RAISED DOUGHNUTS. 

Doughnuts can be made from any ordinary roll dough which 
contains sweetening. The better grades are made from the standard 
doughs given in previous recipes, and a very light slack dough with 
little shortening makes a very nice article. In Germany the dough- 
nuts are called krapfen in the South, and in Central and Northern 
Germany they are called pfankuchen (pancake). The doughnuts 
called Bismarcks are identical with the Berlin pfankuchen. Dough- 
nuts are fried in hot lard and also in vegetable compounds. The lard 
should have the right degree of heat when they are put in, otherwise 
the grease will soak in the cakes and make them unfit for use, and 
cause a larger consumption of grease and loss of profit. One other 
point which should be watched in frying the cakes is the proof; if 
the cakes are given full proof, or, in baking powder raised doughnuts, 
made too light, they get too porous and soak in the grease in frying. 
If the grease is too hot it will cause a smaller cake, by forming the 
crust too quick (not having sufficient time to expand), and also caus- 
ing the bursting on top and the breaking through of the raw, un- 
cooked dough on the sides, just as a loaf of bread bursts in the oven 
if given half proof and is then baked in a quick heat. Doughnuts 
made from cheap grades of dough require a hotter grease than the 
richer kind. 

DOUGHNUTS — NO. I. 

Two quarts milk ; two ounces yeast ; twelve ounces sugar ; twelve 
ounces butter; six eggs; half ounce salt; lemon extract; mace. 
Make a very slack sponge, lukewarm, with the milk and yeast and 
some good patent flour. When the sponge is ready work in the other 
ingredients, and with more flour make a smooth dough. Let it come 
up once and work over. Roll out into a sheet about one third of an 
inch thick and cut into rings, plain rounds or long squares; set on 
cloth-lined trays to prove, and fry as directed. 

(94) 



Doughnuts, etc. 95 

Bismarcks are often called jelly doughnuts; they are best if 
filled with jam. It is not advisable to use jelly if they are filled 
before frying, because it melts and soaks through the cakes, runs out 
in frying and makes a bad-looking cake. Jam is more substantial 
and stays in the cakes. Doughnuts may be filled with jelly after 
they are fried, with one of the patent fillers which are used for cream 
puffs, or by using a bag and small tube. 

DOUGHNUTS — NO. 2. 

Ten pounds of sponge dough; one pound of butter and lard; 
four eggs; three fourths pound sugar; lemon extract; mace. Work 
the ingredients into th~ sponge; add more flour, and make a smooth 
dough; cut out; prove and fry as directed. 

BISMARCKS. 

The genuine Bismarcks are made of a richer mixture; they are 
made small and filled with a good preserve or fruit jam, but raised 
and fried like the doughnuts. 

One quart milk; four ounces yeast; one pound four ounces 
butter; twelve ounces sugar; twelve eggs; the grated rind of one 
lemon ; a little mace ; half ounce salt. Set a warm slack sponge with 
yeast, milk and a good strong flour. Work the other ingredients in 
the sponge when it is ready, adding more flour to make a nice slack 
dough. Let it come up and work over twice. Ball up round in one 
ounce pieces, and set on the board or bench ; give a little proof ; pull 
each piece a little apart to make a cavity in the center ; put a dot of 
jam into the impression and pinch up the dough over the jam so it 
will not run out in frying. Set the pinched side down on cloth-lined 
trays ; prove and fry to a nice brown ; dust with powdered sugar and 
cinnamon while hot. 

VIENNA KRAPFEN. 

The Vienna Krapfen may be made from the same mixture as 
given for the Berlin pfankuchen. The original mixture is more like 
the Vienna Brioche dough; it contains more eggs — that is, yolks 
only; the whites being left out. The krapfen are not balled round; 
the dough is rolled into a thin sheet about one-quarter inch thick. 
With a round cutter the dough is cut up in pieces. Half the pieces 
are washed with egg or milk; some apricot jam or other preserve 
is placed in the center. The other half of the cut out pieces are 
placed on the top, the sides pressed together to enclose the jam, and 
with a smaller sized cutter each of the krapfen is trimmed even; 
they are set to prove and fried like the Bismarcks, 



96 Bakers' Bread. 

DRESDEN CHEESEPUFFS, OR KASEKEULCHEN. 

These cakes are made in the same manner as the Bismarcks, only 
instead of jam, they are filled with a cheesecake mixture like the 
following: Two and a half pounds of cheese curd; six ounces sugar; 
six yolks ; one cup of cream ; four ounces butter ; grated rind of two 
lemons; six ounces currants; four ounces citron; four ounces al- 
monds, chopped fine. Force the cheese through a sieve; melt the 
butter, and work the ingredients together and use for filling. The 
same filling may be used for cheese tartlets and cheesecakes. 

DOUGHNUTS OR CRULLERS WITH BAKING POWDER. 

No. I. — Two pounds flour ; one ounce good baking powder ; four 
ounces butter; eight yolks; two whole eggs; six ounces sugar; one 
half pint milk; flavor, lemon extract; mace. 

No. 2. — Three pounds flour; one and a half ounces baking pow- 
der; six ounces butter; eight ounces sugar; eight eggs; one and a 
half pints milk; lemon and mace. 

No. 3. — Four pounds flour; two ounces baking powder; one 
pound sugar ; four ounces butter ; four eggs ; one quart milk ; a little 
salt; flavor. 

Sift the baking powder in the flour ; cream the butter and sugar 
and eggs ; mix like tea biscuits, rather slack ; roll and cut with ring 
cutter or cruller cutter like other doughnuts ; set in box and cover up 
to prevent drying, and fry at once. Dust with sugar when done or 
ice over. The plain doughnuts generally sell for ten cents per dozen ; 
the iced ones sell for twelve cents. 

FRENCH CRULLERS. 

One quart milk and water; one pound lard; one and a fourth 
pounds flour; one quart eggs. This mixture is made just like a 
cream-puff mixture. It should be made firm enough so the dressed 
up rings keep in shape without running flat. Sift the flour; put the 
lard into the milk and water ; let come to a boil ; stir in the flour and 
take off the fire. Put the hot paste into a bowl and let it cool a 
little ; work in the eggs while the paste is warm. Do not use all the 
eggs if the mixture gets too soft. Put in a bag, and with a large star 
tube dress in rings on round pieces of greased paper the size of the 
frying pan. Turn them over into the hot grease. The paper will 
come off in a short time ; take it out to dress more of the cake on it ; 
turn the crullers over several times till done. If not sufficiently 
cooked they shrink. Ice over with vanilla icing when done. The 



Doughnuts, etc. 97 

rings should be made rather small to sell ten cents per dozen, to 
leave some profit for the baker. Some very practical inventions for 
frying crullers and doughnuts in large quantities are in the market. 
The cakes are fried under the grease and need no turning, coloring 
them evenly on both sides at once, which saves a good deal of time. 



MUFFINS AND CRUMPETS. 

English muffins can be made from any white bread sponge, 
which has reached the first drop, by adding the amount of salt gen- 
erally used for bread. This saves the making of a special sponge, 
where the muffins are made in very small quantities. They are 
baked on a hot iron griddle or plate. The gas heated griddle seen 
at restaurants is the most convenient for this purpose. With 1 gallon 
of water; 2 ounces of yeast, and 3 ounces of salt, make a very soft 
dough luke warm; use a good bread flour; work the dough well 
but make it slack like a sponge. Let it rise; and when it reaches 
the drop, beat it down again and let it come up a little. Prepare 
some trays or bread boxes filled with sifted flour about three inches 
deep. Take a muffin cup and make half round impressions in the 
flour a little distance apart. Drop the dough out in two ounce 
pieces by hand (just like dropcake) into the impressions made in 
the flour; dust over, cover and set to prove. When proved up to 
double size, lift out carefully from the flour; flatten somewhat and 
put on the griddle to bake ; turn over carefully when about half 
done and finish baking. These muffins should be turned just at 
the right moment. If turned too soon they become flat and the 
dough breaks through on the sides. If turned too late they get 
round on the top and lose the proper shape. 

Another and more practical way has been adopted in hotels, 
which I think gives a better looking muffin with less trouble. The 
muffins are made from the same mixture as in the foregoing recipe ; 
sometimes half milk is used instead of water, and the mixture is 
made still slacker. The muffins are baked in the same manner, but 
in rings, just like the English crumpets. They are also raised with 
baking powder in some places, but are better if raised with yeast or 
ferment. 

ENGLISH MUFFINS IN RINGS. 

Four ounces of flour; 2 ounces of yeast; 1 quart water; 1 quart 
of milk; 1 ounce of salt. Make a sponge or slack dough with the 



98 Bakers' Bread. 

ingredients and proceed as in the former recipe, only have the bat- 
ter softer. When the batter is coming up the second time, have the 
griddle hot, take muffin rings three inches in diameter and one 
inch high ; grease well and set on griddle ; put the batter in a fun- 
nel dropper, or in a custard dipper, and fill each ring about half full 
with the batter. It will raise up and fill the ring. As soon as it be- 
comes dry on the sides and is baked sufficiently on the bottom, turn 
over carefully; after a minute remove the rings and finish baking. 
The muffins should be pulled into halves (not cut), slightly toasted 
and eaten with butter. 

MUFFINS WITH BAKING POWDER. 

Two pounds of flour; 2 ounces of baking powder; 4 ounces of 
butter; 4 eggs; 1 quart of milk; % ounce of salt. Mix the ingred- 
ients well together into a batter ; bake in greased rings 

SALLY LUNN. 

Two quarts of milk; 2 ounces of yeast; % ounce salt; 12 
ounces of sugar; 12 ounces of butter; 8 eggs; mace. Set a warm 
sponge with three pints of milk and the yeast. When ready put on 
the remaining pint of milk, eggs, sugar and salt, add the melted 
butter, and make a rather slack, smooth dough. Let it prove up 
once and work over; scale into half pound pieces; mould round; set 
on pie or layer cake tins ; flatten out on the tins and give some 
proof; wash over with melted butter; and with the dough scraper 
cut each round in four pieces. Set back to finish proving and bake 
in a good heat. The brushing with butter makes the cuts separate 
nicely and the Sallys can be sold whole or in single pieces. 

SALLY LUNN MUFFINS. 

Four pounds of flour ; 3 ounces of baking powder ; 3 pints milk ; 
6 ounces of sugar; 8 ounces butter; 8 eggs; l / 2 ounce of salt. Sift 
the baking powder in the flour. Beat the eggs, sugar and salt to- 
gether; melt the butter, and mix all the ingredients into a batter. 
Bake in well-greased muffin cups in a medium heat. 

YEAST RAISED MUFFINS J (SWEET BISCUIT.) 

Four pounds of flour; iY 2 ounces of yeast; Y 2 ounce salt ; 3 pints 
of milk ; 8 eggs ; 12 ounces of butter ; 8 ounces of sugar ; flour ; mace. 
Set a sponge as usual, with two pints of the milk and two pounds 



Doughnuts, etc. 99 

of the flour and yeast. When ready add the remaining milk and the 
other ingredients; make a very soft dough; let come up and beat 
down. Prepare a flat pan; grease it and set on as many small muf- 
fin rings, one inch high and two inches in diameter, as the pan will 
hold; grease well and fill about half full with the mixture. Let it 
prove up full and bake in a good heat of about 400 degrees Fah. 

CORN MUFFINS. 

One pound of cornmeal; two pounds of wheat flour; three 
ounces of baking powder; twelve ounces of sugar; five ounces of 
butter; one quart of milk; eight eggs; a pinch of salt. Sift the 
flour and baking powder; rub the sugar and butter with the eggs; 
add the milk, and mix with the flour and meal; fill in well-greased 
muffin moulds, and bake in a medium heat. The quantity given 
makes forty muffins. 

CRUMPETS. 

Four pounds of flour; 2 ounces of yeast; 2 quarts of milk and 
water; 1 ounce of salt; 4 ounces of butter; 4 ounces of sugar. Set 
a sponge as for English muffins with water and milk. When ready 
work in the butter, sugar and salt. Bake on the hot griddle in 
greased rings of a smaller size. The turning must be done carefully. 
They are split and toasted like the muffins. 

CRUMPETS WITH BAKING POWDER. 

Two pounds of flour; i l / 2 ounces of baking powder; 2 ounces of 
butter; 2 ounces of sugar or molasses; l / 2 ounce of salt; 1 quart 
water and milk. Sift the baking powder, sugar and salt into the 
flour ; add the milk and water by degrees ; beat up well into a smooth 
thick batter; add the melted butter; bake in greased rings on the 
griddle. Crumpets are also baked in flat cakes without rings, 
like buckwheat cakes. The batter is thinned up with more milk 
to make them run flat; they are turned over on the griddle just 
like the other cakes. If a few eggs are used it improves them 
wonderfully. Sometimes ground cinnamon is used. 

BISCUITS, GRIDDLE CAKES, ETC. 

A large variety of biscuits can be made from the following two 
mixtures, by adding different fruits, egg and nuts, and also by 
increasing the amount of sugar and shortening. A good winter- 
wheat flour, or half spring and winter wheat, makes the best bis- 
cuits. The dough should be made soft and smooth. 



roo Bakers' Bread. 

For the plain tea biscuit one ounce of baking powder and two 
ounces of shortening (either butter or lard) is used. If all milk is 
used in mixing no sugar is required for plain biscuit, otherwise one 
ounce of sugar and three ounces of shortening should be taken to 
one pound of flour. 

TEA BISCUIT. 

No. i. — Three pounds flour; 3 ounces baking powder; 6 ounces 
butter or lard; 2 ounces of sugar; l / 2 ounce salt; 1 quart milk. 

No. 2. — Twelve pounds of flour; 1 gallon milk; 6 ounces salt; 8 
ounces of cream of tartar ; 3 ounces of soda ; 2 pounds of lard ; (or 
use 12 ounces of baking powder instead of soda and cream of tartar) » 
mix the powder, sugar and salt in the flour, sift in the bowl. The 
lard may be rubbed in a part of the flour or may be melted and 
mixed in the flour with the milk. Make a nice smooth dough, dust 
some flour on the table ; throw out the dough and fold into a square 
piece; flatten on the table and roll out evenly about one-half inch 
thick. Let the rolled-out sheet rest for a minute to lose its springi- 
ness; cut out into biscuits; set in rows on the pan; wash with a 
thin egg wash, and bake in a good heat of 350 degrees Fah. 

SCOTCH SCONES. 

Four pounds of flour ; eight ounces of sugar ; eight ounces of 
butter; one quart of milk; one and one-quarter ounces of bicarbon- 
ate of soda; two and one-quarter ounces of cream of tartar, or four 
ounces of good baking powder. Rub the butter in one-half of the 
flour; sift the sugar, cream of tartar and soda into the other half; 
mix together and then mix with milk into a medium dough. Work 
this dough well for a couple of minutes, then scale in twelve-ounce 
pieces; mould the pieces round and roll out the size of layer cake 
tins; cut each with the scraper into four pieces and place on large 
layer cake or pie tins so the cut sides do not touch in baking; prick 
or dock each piece with a fork and set in a damp warm proof box 
for half an hour, then wash the top with egg-wash and bake in a 
good heat. If sour milk or buttermilk is used take one ounce 
of soda and two of cream of tartar only for the same mixture. 
Plain scones are made without sugar. Use four pounds flour, one 
ounce of soda, two ounces of cream of tartar, one ounce of salt, 
eight ounces of lard, one quart of sour milk and bake like the other 
scones. Raisin scones and currant scones are made after the same 
recipes, about twelve ounces of fruit is added and sometimes a 



Doughnuts, etc. ior 

couple of yolks with a pinch of mace. The mixture should be 
handled quickly, so they get into the proof box before the chemicals 
work out ; they should be light colored on the sides and have a nice 
brown top when baked. 

AMERICAN BUTTER CAKES. 

These cakes are very popular in some restaurants. They are 
baked and eaten like the English muffins. The cakes are a little 
difficult to make, because the same mixture does not work always 
alike. This is caused by the difference of the acidity of the milk, 
which requires more or less soda or a small addition of cream of 
tartar to give the cake the right degree of lightness. 

Four pounds of flour, three pints of buttermilk, or sour milk; 
half an ounce of bicarbonate soda ; half an ounce of salt ; two yolks 
of eggs; two ounces of melted butter. Take half cake and half 
bread flour, sift with the soda and salt three times, make a bay in 
the center of the flour, put in two pints of the milk, the yolks and 
the butter, draw in all the flour and add the rest of the milk to 
make it like a slack smooth biscuit dough. Work this dough well, 
dust some flour on the board and flatten the dough with the hands, 
let it rest till the dough loses its springiness, then roll out to about 
three quarters of an inch in thickness; let rest for a minute, then 
cut out into biscuits with a three inch cutter; set the biscuits or 
cakes in clothlined dusted boxes; cover and let rise in a cool place 
till they are risen to about one inch of thickness, then lift out 
carefully and bake on the hot plate or griddle on both sides like 
the English muffins. These cakes are pulled or divided in halves 
and well buttered and eaten while hot. 

NEW YORK BUTTER CAKES. 

Some other kinds of butter cake are made in New York but 
they are not baked on the griddle, they are made in the follow- 
ing manner: Take one quart of milk; one pound of flour; eight 
ounces of butter, and eight ounces of sugar. Put the milk, sugar 
and butter in a vessel on the fire and let it come to a boil; when 
it is boiling add the sifted flour, stirring it in well with an egg 
beater; take it off the fire and put in a wooden bowl; let cool till 
you can hold your hand in it, then mix into it by degrees five whole 
eggs and five yolks. Add to this mixture two and one-half pounds 
of white bread sponge, or milk sponge, and sufficient flour to make 
it like a tea biscuit dough. Let this dough rest, and prove on for half 



102 Bakers' Bread. 

an hour; roll into a sheet and cut into large biscuits; eggwash and 
lay in granulated sugar; set on pans single; let it prove, and bake 
to a nice color. 

YEAST-RAISED GRIDDLE CAKES. 

On the same principle as the English crumpets are made (given 
in the foregoing recipes) a very nice yeast-raised wheat cake and 
also corn cake can be made, which is far superior to the baking 
powder raised griddle cake generally made in restaurants. The 
buckwheat cakes are often raisd with yeast, but very few attempt 
to raise wheat and corn cakes in this manner. It is a little more 
troublesome, but it pays in the long run. Set a sponge in the even- 
ing, or early in the morning, and when it is ready take for each 
pound of flour used in the batter two ounces of sugar; two eggs, 
and one ounce of melted butter. Thin it up with milk the thickness 
of a soft batter ; give time to raise up again ; and bake like the other 
griddle cakes. The ready batter should be kept cool to prevent 
souring, and a spoonful of soda may be stirred in as a preventative. 

YEAST-RAISED BUCKWHEAT CAKES. 

Four pounds of buckwheat flour; four quarts of water; two 
ounces of compressed yeast; half an ounce of salt; one cupful of 
molasses ; four ounces of melted butter. Make a soft sponge or 
batter with the flour, yeast and water, and let it stand over night. 
In the morning add the other ingredients and make a medium 
batter. A pinch of soda may be added ; and some people prefer a 
little cornmeal or wheat flour in the batter. Bake on the griddle 
like wheat cakes. 

BUCKWHEAT CAKES WITH BAKING POWDER. 

Three pounds of buckwheat flour; one pound of wheat flour; 
four ounces of baking powder ; a pinch of soda ; half an ounce of 
salt; half a pint of molasses; four ounces of butter. Mix with 
milk or water. Sift the baking powder with the flour; add the 
molasses and soda dissolved in the water ; mix into a soft batter ; 
then add the melted butter. Bake like the other griddle cake. 

WHEAT GRIDDLE CAKES WITH BAKING POWDER. 

Two pounds of flour; four ounces of sugar; two ounces of 
baking powder; two ounces of melted butter; salt; four eggs; milk 
to mix. 



Doughnuts, etc. 103 



CORN GRIDDLE CAKES. 

One pound of cornmeal; one pound wheat flour; two ounces 
of baking powder; four ounces of sugar, or syrups; a pinch of 
salt ; four eggs ; two ounces of melted butter. 

GRAHAM GRIDDLE CAKES. 

One pound of graham flour; one pound of wheat flour; two 
ounces of baking powder; four ounces of sugar or molasses; four 
eggs ; two ounces of butter ; a pinch of salt. Mix the flour and bak- 
ing powder and sift with the sugar and salt. Mix with milk to a 
batter; add the beaten eggs and last the melted butter. Bake on a 
well greased hot griddle or hot plate. 

Rice cakes are made by adding boiled rice to the wheat cake 
batter. 



Yeasts, and Tkcir Use. 



COMPRESSED YEAST. 

Compressed yeast has taken the place of the old fashioned 
stock yeast and of the potato ferment, but the latter is still used 
by many bakers because they claim it makes better bread and keeps 
it moister. Stock yeast and ferment-made breads have a better 
flavor; and bakers using compressed yeast frequently use malt 
extract, potato flour and also glucose to supply the lacking flavor. 
They also use scalded cornmeal, and rice flour is added to keep 
the bread moist. 

Compressed yeast should always be used fresh; but in places 
where it cannot be had regularly it may be kept for months if cov- 
ered with cold water in a jar and the jar kept in a cool place. Be- 
fore using, the water should be drawn off carefully, the amount of 
yeast wanted taken out by means of a spoon, and fresh cold water 
put on the remaining yeast. It is best kept in the ice box and the 
water changed twice a week. If the water gets too warm the yeast 
will spoil because it will rise to the top and be exposed to the air. 
Yeast will also keep for a long time if slightly frozen. Before 
using it should be thawed slowly in cold water. 

Yeast develops best at a temperature of from 75 degrees to 
90 degrees Fahrenheit. Excessive heat will spoil the yeast; there- 
fore care has to be taken in dissolving the yeast to secure the right 
temperature of the water before adding the yeast. 

Compressed yeast is used for setting sponge and also for straight 
dough. It is used to start stock yeast and to make potato ferment. 
Virgin yeast or maiden yeast can be made in any quantity, but it 
takes more time to make it, and even in distilleries some yeast of 
previous batches is retained to be used for a start to the next batch. 

MAIDEN YEAST. 

Maiden yeast for bakers' use may be made on a small scale in 
this manner : Take a handful of hops and boil in a quart of water 
for half an hour. Strain off the hops and put in a strong bottle with 

(104) 



Yeasts. 105 

a good handful of malt and a little sugar. Cork up and tie securely 
with wire, and let it stand in a warm place for two days and two 
nights ; then it will be ready to start about two gallons of stock with. 

Other recipes for maiden yeast (or malt yeast) are added: 

No. 2. Boil eight ounces of hops in four gallons of water for 
one hour. Cool to 170 degrees Fahrenheit and mash with six pounds 
of malt. Strain in a long narrow tub like an ice cream tub. Add 
eight ounces of sugar and set (close-covered) in a warm place. 
Fermentation begins in a day, and in forty-eight hours, or when 
the fermentation ceases, it is ready for use. This makes a strong 
malt yeast if stocked with two quarts of previous stock yeast, or 
with four ounces of compressed yeast. 

No. 3. Boil eight ounces of hops with four gallons of water for 
half hour; cool to 165 degrees Fahrenheit; add ten pounds of malt, 
and leave covered up for three hours. Strain off and wash the malt 
with some cold water; add four ounces of salt, and cool to 80 
degrees Fahrenheit. Stock away with two quarts of old stock, or 
with four ounces compressed yeast. 

No. 4. Boil four ounces of hops in four gallons of water for 
half an hour; cool to 165 degrees Fahrenheit; add six pounds of 
malt; cover for three hours; strain, and add three ounces of salt 
and four ounces of sugar; cool to 80 degrees Fahrenheit, and stock 
with two quarts of stock or four ounces of compressed yeast. This 
yeast will be ready in from thirty-six to forty-eight hours. 

STOCK YEAST. 

Stock yeast is used to start ferment, and generally in the pro- 
portion of one quart of stock to four gallons of ferment. Three 
recipes for making it are given: 

No. 1. Boil half a pound of hops in six gallons of water for 
one hour; strain and pour some of the water on four pounds of 
flour to scald it. Cool till blood warm; rub the scalded flour fine; 
add the rest of the hop liquor; add to this four pounds of malt 
and one-half pound of sugar; when luke warm add one quart of 
maiden yeast or four ounces of compressed yeast. Let this stand 
from thirty-six to forty-eight hours without disturbing, and it will 
be ready to make ferment with. This stock yeast will keep for a 
month in a cool place, and can be used to make new stock with, 
but then a quart should be taken out after it is ready, a teaspoonful 
of baking soda added and put in a jar in the ice box. 

No. 2. Boil half a pound of hops in six gallons of water for 



106 Bakers' Bread. 

one hour; strain and pour some of the water on four pounds of 
flour to scald it. Cool till blood warm ; rub the scalded flour fine ; 
add the rest of the liquor. Add to this four pounds of malt and 
half a pound of sugar; cool till lukewarm and stock away with from 
six to eight cakes of dry yeast, which has previously been dissolved 
in warm water. Let this stand covered without disturbing from 
twenty- four to thirty-six hours or until fermentation ceases, then 
it is ready for use. Before using stir it up well. This yeast can be 
used to set sponge with by taking two quarts to the pail of sponge; 
or better to make potato ferment with it. 

No. 3. Boil two ounces of hops for twenty minutes in one 
gallon of water ; strain upon two pounds of flour and one pound of 
malt. Mash and cool to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Stock with two 
ounces compressed yeast, or two quarts of previous stock yeast, or 
eight dry yeast cakes. Let it stand in a warm place undisturbed, 
and it will be ready in twenty-four hours. 

Recipes for malt and stock yeast. Both are stock yeasts, 
but the malt yeasts are the stronger of the two. In the stock yeasts 
a flour batter is used with a small quantity of malt, while in the malt 
yeast only malt is used without the scalded flour. The stronger 
malt yeast ripens the doughs more rapidly and are used for sponge 
and dough when a short process is desired, the same as if using 
compressed yeast. The stock yeasts with flour batter are also used 
straight for sponges, but are more used in connection with a 
potato ferment. 

Try this recipe: Four to five ounces of hops, two pounds of 
malt, three and one half pounds of flour, five gallons of water, 
two ounces of salt, two quarts of stock yeast, or seven or eight yeast 
cakes or three ounces of compressed yeast. Boil the hops and water 
for one hour, strain and scald the flour with a part of the water 
into a smooth paste. Cool the rest of the water to 165 degrees, 
and add the malt, let it mash and cool down to 85 degrees Fahr., 
or about blood warm; strain and wash off the malt, add the flour 
paste and the stock. Put away well covered in a warm place till 
ready. If compressed yeast is used for stocking, it will be ready 
in about thirty-six hours; stock yeast or dry yeast cakes in about 
forty-eight hours. 

The stock yeast is ready when the yeast settles to the bottom, 
the liquid gets clear and fermentation ceases; then the salt may be 
added, and the stock put in a cold place — cellar or ice-box, if 
possible. 



Yeasts. 107 

Stock yeast will keep for a long time in an even, cool tempera- 
ture, but atmospheric changes tend to weaken it more or less. 
Most of the bakers prefer to make fresh stock yeast once or twice 
a week. I think it is best to do so myself. I prefer compressed 
yeast to stock away with, because it is the most reliable. It is 
more uniform, and one can easily tell if it is fresh, which is not the 
case with the dry yeast cakes, which lose much of their strength 
when they get old. 

When stock yeast gets old and weak, the hop liquid loses its 
clearness, gets muddy, but it shows more in the ferment and the 
sponge and does not rise as high as is usual with fresh stock. It 
comes up more flat, looks like old sponge, is almost lifeless, and 
throws off less gas. In the baked goods it appears in large irreg- 
ular holes in the crumb and a dull reddish color in the crust. 

FERMENT WITH COMPRESSED YEAST. 

For one pail of ten quarts of ferment use two and one-half 
pounds of potatoes, one pound of flour, two ounces of sugar and 
one and one-half ounces of compressed yeast. Boil the potatoes 
till done; put a part of the boiling water with the potatoes in 
the tub, also the flour; scald this well, and mash to a fine, smooth 
paste; add more water to thin up and cool to make a pail of ten 
quarts; have it lukewarm, or about 75 degrees R; strain and add 
sugar and yeast. Cover the tub close, and leave it without disturb- 
ing for from ten to twelve hours. This ferment raises like a sponge 
and falls when ready. 

If a shorter fermentation is wanted the temperature can be 
raised to as high as 95 degrees R, and more yeast can be used, 
which would have the ferment ready in from five to six hours. 

This ferment can be used for sponge and straight doughs. It 
may be taken straight where a strong proof is required; for longer 
sponges and doughs from ten to twelve quarts of water can be 
added without fear. 

It is essential to use only good, sound potatoes; the green and 
sunburnt potatoes cause a bitter taste in the bread, and often injure 
the yeast. In fact it would be better to peel the potatoes before 
boiling, but this is ofen considered too much trouble, so the potatoes 
should be washed and brushed clean and the water changed a couple 
of times before boiling; and after they are mashed with the flour 
and thinned up with more water, the skins should be strained off 
before adding the yeast and starting the ferment. 



108 Bakers" Bread. 

POTATO FERMENTS. 

No. I. — Wash well half a peck of potatoes; boil till done; put 
three pounds of flour into the tub and one handful of sugar; put 
in the hot potatoes and part of the water ; mash to a paste ; thin and 
cool with more water (luke warm) to make up two pails, and 
stock away with two quarts of stock yeast. Cover and set aside. 
This ferment will be ready in from twelve to twenty-four hours, 
according to temperature. It will come up like sponge, and fall 
when ready. It would answer to make stock yeast once a week 
and save two quarts of it to stock the next week's batch, and make 
ferment every day. 

No. 2. — A good strong ferment can be made as follows: 

Wash one pail of boiled potatoes and mix with four pounds of 
flour and eight ounces of sugar ; thin up with two pails of water ; 
cool to 85 degrees Fahrenheit; stock with two quarts of stock 
yeast or four ounces of compressed yeast. Set in a warm place. 
It will be ready in from eight to ten hours. 

No. 3. — Take a well cleaned barrel, free from foreign sub- 
stances, into which put four pounds of the best spring wheat flour 
and four pounds of potato flour. Mix the two flours and put on a 
little luke warm water, making a paste, thus avoiding lumps. Scald 
this with three gallons of hot water by pouring it slowly and stead- 
ily upon it, at the same time stirring it up thoroughly. Then pour 
on twelve or thirteen gallons of cool to luke warm water (in summer 
you can use cold water), giving the whole mixture a temperature 
of about 85 to 90 degrees. While pouring on this water stir the 
mixture well. Stock it away with one-half to three-quarters of a 
pound of compressed yeast or else with two gallons of stock yeast. 
Cover the barrel and allow it to stand undisturbed six or seven 
hours or longer if desirable. After the ferment has ripened, use it 
in the dough, adding twelve more gallons of water. This ferment 
can be used either for straight or sponge doughs. For sponge 
dough set the sponge with the ferment alone. 

YEAST CAKE— DRY YEAST. 

The dry yeast cakes which are in use are made out of a strong 
stock yeast, thickened with cornmeal and dried so they can not 
ferment. The strength of this yeast is very variable, when too old 
the loss of strength is considerable. The cakes are useful in places 
where no compressed yeast can be obtained, and are used by some 
bakers to start stock yeast and also for ferment. If used to set 



Yeasts. 109 

sponge they work very slowly, and can be used only in a long sponge, 
but if given time become as strong as the other yeast. 

The best way to work with dry yeast is to dissolve the dry 
cakes in warm water, and some yeast food, that is either sugar, 
glucose, molasses or some boiled cornstarch or malt, and with some 
flour make a soft batter and let it stand in a warm place till it 
begins to work; then it is almost double in strength and ready for 
stock, and also for ferment or sponge. When this dry yeast is 
fresh, from four to five cakes are equal to one ounce of compressed 
yeast. 

Dry yeast cakes may be prepared in the following manner: 
Take a good strong stock yeast and work into it enough of white 
cornmeal to make a fine dry paste; roll out to about half an inch 
of thickness and cut in one inch squares; dust with cornmeal and 
put them to dry; turn over a couple of times till all the moisture is 
expelled and keep in a dry place. These cakes will keep for months 
in this manner. 

Another Dry Hop yeast has rapidly come to the front recently. 
It is made by a new process, and is used by many leading bakers. 
This yeast is best to use in ferment like the old fashioned stock 
yeast, and it may also be used with advantage in a long sponge. 
Before using the yeast for ferment or sponge it should be dissolved 
in warm water and given at least fifteen to twenty minutes to 
melt and get ready. The ferment or sponge should be set in the 
evening to be ready in the morning, giving it from 12 to 14 hours 
to get ready. The ready ferment can be used for sponge or for 
straight doughs, adding the same amount of water, or less for 
quick sponge or doughs, and if the dry yeast is used in the sponge, 
the sponge when ready can be used in the same manner as other 
sponges, set with compressed yeast. 

GENERAL SUGGESTIONS. 

Many bakers object to the use of salt in the yeast because salt 
checks fermentation. For this reason, if salt is used it is put in as 
a preservative after the yeast is ready for use to prevent souring. 

Sugar, glucose, molasses and malt extracts, potatoes and boiled 
cornstarch are yeast foods, and are used with yeast to make it grow 
and develop. For this reason it is added to yeast and ferment. 

In using yeast for sponges and straight doughs many bakers 
prefer to dissolve the yeast required for the batch in warm water 
and with some flour work it into a soft batter, beat this up well 



HO Bakers' Bread. 

and let it rest for fifteen to twenty minutes in a warm place. This 
sponge is then dissolved with the other water and made into the 
sponge or dough. 

Stock yeast is best started with a strong yeast, either previous 
stock or compressed distillers' yeast. In case of emergency fer- 
ment can be used to start stock yeast, and even some sponge can 
be used ; but it is only used when there is no yeast to be had, because 
it loses its strength. 

In making yeast and ferments practice the greatest cleanliness, 
to avoid contamination. Use a good strong yeast to start with, and 
keep up an even temperature during the ripening process. Do not 
disturb the yeast while this process is going on. 



The Small Baker and Flours. 



Bakers seldom use single or straight flours but prefer to use a 
mixed brand or blend of different flours to obtain the best results 
in baking. The blending of flours as it is done by the miller and 
also by many large bakers gives a better flour and makes a better 
bread. Blending is done on scientific principles. To be effective 
it requires knowledge of chemistry, and also a complicated and 
elaborate blending and sifting apparatus. Therefore it is best for 
a small baker to use a standard brand of flour. The brand is the 
trademark of the miller, and great care is taken to keep the flour 
as much as possible on a uniform degree of excellence. 

I do not propose to deal with special brands, but will refer only 
to the flours in general use for baking. The strong northern spring 
wheats are the best bread flours because they yield the most bread, 
but have not as good a flavor as the hard Kansas winter-wheat 
flours. For this reason they are blended into standard brands, 
often in combination with a soft winter-wheat flour. In special 
mixtures for Vienna the soft winter wheat flour is left out, 
while for pan breads from one-half to two-thirds of winter 
wheat grades can be used with success. In a three- 
barrel mixture one part of Kansas patent flour, one of 
Minnesota and one of Missouri winter wheat make a good all round 
blend. For a five-barrel mixture one of spring wheat, two of Kansas, 
one of clear spring and one of soft Missouri; and for a seven-barrel 
mixture two of spring, three of Kansas, one of clear and one of soft 
winter wheat flour. 

Oklahoma has produced very good bread flour, similar to the 
Kansas flour, which makes in combination with a strong spring 
flour one of the best flavored breads. The California and Oregon 
flours are also good bread flours, but do not possess the strength 
of the flours named before. They require less age in the dough ; 
the dough has to be taken on the first proof, and moulded and 
panned at once. If treated like the stronger flours it would result 
in a heavy, flat loaf. 

(in) 



H2 Bakers' Bread. 

The Missouri winter wheat flour is the. best of the soft flours; 
the Indiana and Ohio second; and the Michigan flour about third. 

The soft winter wheat flours are preferable for cake-making, 
and are also excellent for tea-biscuit. The strong spring flours are 
not good for this purpose because they would take up more shorten- 
ing and eggs, they would be more expensive and also make a dry 
harsh cake. The soft flour with the same ingredients makes a 
richer and moister cake and also a richer and shorter pie crust. 
For puff paste a mixture of half spring and half soft flour is gener- 
ally used. Also special blends are put up by the flour merchants 
as cake flours. 

There is a great variety of flours in use and even the best 
known brands change with every new crop. This makes it difficult 
to give a certain rule about fermentation and treatment in sponge 
and doughs. The proving qualities of the flour change, and it re- 
quires constant watching to get uniform results even with the same 
brands of flour. 

NEW FLOURS. 

Much difficulty is experienced with new flours. Every year, 
in the fall we hear of bakers having trouble with the flours. Most 
of the complaints come from the southwest, where straight Kansas 
and Territory flours are used. The breads fall in the oven, and 
in some cases make a smaller loaf and do not take up the usual 
quantity of water. Very few complaints come from the northwest, 
where the strong spring wheat patents are used, and still fewer 
complaints from eastern bakers who use more blended flours. 

There will be always some difficulty with new flours, because 
a good flour should have an age of at least six months to make 
good bread. The old wheat flour always sells at a higher price at 
harvest time against the new flour; it is preferred by the baker and 
makes a better bread. The airing and drying of new flours is 
sometimes resorted to by bakers as a remedy. A couple of days' 
supply is emptied into a large bin or box near the oven and worked 
over frequently to prevent it getting lumpy. Other bakers have the 
storage room above the bake oven, where the flour is aired. 

An old baker, used to Kansas flour, says: "Set a very slack 
sponge with three ounces of compressed yeast, take it at the first 
drop. Mix the dough medium; use twelve ounces of salt to 
the pail, sugar and shortening as usual. Take the dough 
young, and do not give too much proof in the pan, 



Flours. 113 

so it does not fall in baking." Another baker says: "Make 
the dough tighter and use from two to three ounces more salt to 
the pail, and the bread will stand up better without changing the 
sponge." Still another remedy is a two-third sponge, that is two 
pail sponge and one pail for doughing, with ten ounces of salt to 
the pail; take the dough young. All these, remedies have been 
used with success ; but conditions vary to such a degree in different 
places, and different effects are produced on the doughs made out of 
a variety of flours, that it requires constant watching and a little 
experimenting to get good results. 

TESTING FLOURS. 

The usual test for flour is to take several samples and put them 
side by side on a board or stiff paper and smooth them with a 
knife or glass. In this manner the flour is tested for its freedom 
from bran and for color. The strong flour has a yellow, golden 
color and also a sharp, granular feel when rubbed between the fin- 
gers, while the weaker flours show more of a white light color 
and feel smooth and heavy in the hand. Another test of flours 
is to take even quantities of the different samples, say one ounce 
of each, and mix with even portions of water into a paste. The 
flour which makes the stiffest paste is the strongest and yields the 
most bread. There are other, more scientific tests, which require 
a technical education and a great deal of practice. 

FLOUR STORAGE. 

Age improves flours, makes it whiter. An even, moderate tem- 
perature of about 70 degrees Fah. is said to be the most favorable. 
Modern bakeries usually have the flour storage room immediately 
over the shop; the flour is taken up by elevators and is sifted 
in the storage room and let down through a spout into the weigh- 
ing vessel and from there into the mixer. 

All flours should be sifted before using. The breads are im- 
proved, made lighter; and foreign substances, such as strings, nails, 
jute, etc., thrown out. Flour absorbs readily the odors of strong- 
smelling substances, and should not be stored near kerosene oil, 
cheese, etc., or near stables. This would give a bad taste to the 
baked bread. When getting in flour all packages having been ex- 
posed to dampness should be examined, because wet flour, if left 
in the package, would become tainted. 



114 Bakers' Bread. 

GRAHAM AND WHOLE WHEAT FLOURS. 

Graham flour is the unbolted meal of wheat; at least it should 
be, but in many flours the best part is taken out and other, cheaper 
grades, are substituted. Sometimes it is made of the poorer grades 
of soft wheat with more barn mixed in it. If using this flour for 
bread-making it is advisable to add a quantity of strong spring flour 
to make good bread. 

Whole wheat flour is made out of the better grades of wheat, 
with half of the bran left out; this flour can be used without the 
addition of other flours. 

RYE FLOUR AND RYEMEAL. 

The best rye flour is milled from the center of the berry, and 
can be had from the miller if the price is paid for it. Generally 
the clear and best grades are mixed, only the bran left out. If a good 
grade of rye flour is mixed with a fifth part of good strong spring 
wheat flour it will make an excellent rye bread. Rye flour is often 
mixed with the cheaper wheat flours, and loses much of its original 
flavor by this procedure. This is partly done to improve the bread- 
making quality, to make a larger, lighter loaf. 

Ryemeal is used for the German rye bread called pumpernickel, 
it is all of the rye berry with the bran in it, like the graham flour. 
When used for bread, sifted rye flour is added and also some wheat 
flour, to make a lighter bread. 



Miscellaneous. 



VARIOUS KINDS OF BREAD FROM ONE SPONGE. 

Set a sponge as usual, medium firm, with five gallons of water 
from 6 to 8 ounces of yeast, at a temperature of 75 deg. Fahrenheit. 
This sponge will be ready and drop in about three hours ; but the 
sponge may be set at a cooler temperature,, say 65 deg. Fahrenheit, 
and with about 3 to 4 ounces of yeast to be ready in the morning. 
The sponge is ready when it begins to fall. 

One gallon of sponge dough weighs from 18 to 20 pounds. 

Take from the ready sponge say 20 pounds for rolls and buns, 
add 1 quart of warm milk, 20 ounces of sugar, from 1 to 2 pounds 
of lard and 2 ounces of salt. Make a medium firm dough; let it 
come up and work over; let it come again, and make up in buns 
and rolls. 

For milk and Vienna bread take out 20 pounds of sponge, add 
half a gallon of milk, four ounces of salt and half a pound of lard, 
and proceed in the same way as with the roll dough. 

To make coffee cake take 10 pounds of sponge. l / 2 pint of warm 
milk, 10 eggs, 1% pound of sugar, i l / 2 pound of butter and lard, 
flavor and mace. This would leave from the five gallon sponge just 
about 2 l /2 gallons. Now we put on the remaining sponge 2V2 gal- 
lons of water at a temperature of 75 deg. Fahrenheit. This would 
make 5 gallons ; add 1 pound of salt or about 3 ounces for each 
gallon, and break up the sponge and water. We proceed now to 
take from this broken sponge for graham bread and rye bread, and 
leave the rest for the pan and French bread. 

Measure out one gallon, adding one pint of molasses and four 
ounces of lard for graham bread and make dough with graham 
flour. 

Take one gallon for rye bread, adding some caraway seed and 
dough with rye flour. 

(us) 



Tl6 Bakers' Bread. 

Take one gallon for French bread, making a slack dough with 
wheat flour. The remaining two gahons may be made into pan 
breads, adding from twelve ounces to one pound of sugar and lard 
for cream bread, or about half of that amount for ordinary pan 
breads. 

The rolls, coffee cake and rye bread require a good heat and 
can be made ready first; the other doughs can be made to come 
slow, so it can be got ready for the oven in the succession it should 
be baked. 

GERMAN PUFFS OR POP-OVERS. (WINDBEUTEL.) 

One quart of skimmed milk, eight eggs, twenty ounces of winter 
wheat flour, one small teaspoonful of salt. Break the eggs, add the 
salt and beat together till the white and yolks are separated, add 
half of the milk, then beat in the sifted flour, add the rest of the 
milk and beat well into a creamy batter. Bake in deep, well 
greased muffin cups, fill about half and bake in a moderate heat 
or about 350 deg. Fahrenheit. It takes about thirty minutes to 
bake these muffins. These muffins are one of the baking curiosities; 
they require no baking powder and rise high above the moulds 
and look like the well known cream puffs. They are a great deli- 
cacy when eaten fresh from the oven with good butter, but lose 
much of their goodness when cold. At clubs and restaurants these 
muffins are well liked, the batter can stand for some hours after 
it is made and the muffins can be baked in small quantities during 
meal hours. 

The mixture can be made with from four to six eggs to the 
quart of milk, but eight eggs is the original recipe. The batter 
must be very thin to make them right, and more milk may be 
required if a strong flour is used. 

BEATEN BISCUITS. 

These biscuits are well known in the southern states and are 
made by many bakers and also in hotels and families. The Mary- 
land or Virginia biscuit is made of water and is like the well 
known water cracker in size. The other biscuit is made with milk 
and is of smaller size; both contain shortening. The Maryland 
biscuit is about two and one-quarter inches in diameter, and the 
other beaten biscuit is of a smaller size — about one and one-half 



Miscellaneous. 117 

Inches in diameter. I have used a good Missouri or Tennessee winter 
wheat flour for these biscuits. A biscuit just like the southern 
beaten biscuit, and which has become quite popular, was intro- 
duced in northern cities by an enterprising Chicago woman. She 
started to make the biscuits at her home on a small scale and sold 
them to families and hotels. The demand increased rapidly and 
after some time she had to move to larger quarters to supply the 
increasing demand. This was about ten years ago. At the present 
time her biscuits are sold everywhere as Bailey's Beaten Biscuits. 
These biscuits keep well, but are better if fresh made. 

Both biscuits require a firm dough. The dough is beaten and 
folded over till it blisters. A large heavy club, or a heavy rolling- 
pin is used for this purpose. When larger quantities are made, a 
break, (or roller) is used. 

MARYLAND BEATEN BISCUIT. 

Take one pound of old dough left over from baking, thin this 
up with one pint of water, add one teaspoonful of salt and four 
ounces of butter or lard melted. Mix all together with more flour 
into a firm dough. Beat till it blisters, if it breaks before blister- 
ing, give some time to recover then beat again, the process requires 
from fifteen to twenty minutes. 

Form in a long roll, break or cut in pieces, mould round on the 
table and let rest well covered with moist cloth to recover, flatten 
each biscuit and set on pans and let rest again, press each one down 
in the center, prick with the fork or with the docker and bake in 
a good oven. 

SOUTHERN BEATEN BISCUIT. 

Take two pounds of flour, two ounces of lard, a good pinch of 
salt and mix with milk into a medium firm dough. Beat this 
dough till it blisters; let it rest well covered. Roll out into a sheet 
one-third of an inch thick. Let it rest and recover. Cut with a 
small cutter, not more than two inches in diameter; put on pans; 
prick and bake in a medium heat to a very light fawn color. 

The dough should be kept moist during the rest to prevent 
drying out, and they are best beaten on cloth with very little flour 
used for dusting j this gives the biscuit a nice clear color in baking. 



Macninery in tke Small Bakery. 



Many small bakeries have found it profitable to use labor- 
saving machines. A flour-sifter is the first necessity, because a 
well sifted flour assures a better dough, a healthier fermentation, 
and keeps out foreign substances such as strings, jute, nails, etc. 
A dough mixer is used by many bakers who use less than a barrel, 
of flour per day, and even the moulding machine has proved a 
paying investment in these bakeries. By the use of such machines 
the work is made easy for the employee, while at the same time 
it gives independence to the employer. The doughs are made bet- 
ter by machine than they are made by hand, doing the work more 
quickly; the moulding machine makes a better and more uniform 
loaf of a finer grain and texture. 

Naturally when changing from hand-work to machine-work 
it is necessary to fit the process to the new conditions by installing 
a system to make the doughs a certain temperature and consistency, 
by weighing the flour and water and using the proper temperature. 
A little close observation and experience will teach the baker in 
a few days how to work and use such machines. In places where 
electricity can be had the electric motor is considered the most 
economical to use, with an individual motor for each machine. 
The next best motive power is the gas or gasoline or oil engines 
which are used in many bakeries. 



C118) 



Tke Use of Malt Extract. 

Bakers use malt extract, malt flour and yeast foods to im- 
prove the flavor and add moisture to the bread; these preparations 
also stimulate and quicken fermentation, saving sugar and lard. 
Many prominent bakers have used and are still using malt extract 
since it was introduced about twenty years ago with success. 

Malt extract affects both yeast and flour; it acts differently with 
various flours, because some flours ferment more rapidly than 
others. Malt extracts differ in diastatic strength which is given 
from 40 to 160 degrees on the Lintner scale. A 60-degree ex- 
tract is used by some bakers, while others prefer the 120-degree 
grade. Half a pint or half a pound of the 60-degree extract is 
used for the 12-quart pail, or from V/ 2 pounds to 2 pounds for 
100 pounds of strong bread flour; 2*/* pounds per barrel is about 
right to use, and when using the stronger (120-degree) grade the 
amount should be reduced by half. When a weaker flour is used 
bakers prefer an extract of a lower diastatic strength or a smaller 
quantity of the stronger extracts, as an excessive use of extract 
(especially with weak flours) causes too much moisture in the 
crumb— makes it sticky and clammy. As said above, the results 
vary with different flours; so it will be seen that the same quantity 
of extracts cannot be used for all kinds of flour; it must be used 
with discretion to obtain the best results. 

MALT BREAD. 

The following formulas are for short straight doughs for breads 
similar to "Butter Krust," "Butter-Nut," "Buster Brown," etc. : 

The flour used in one bakery for this bread consists of from 
two-thirds to three-fourths of spring patent and one-third to one- 
fourth of soft winter wheat patent flour. Dough-room temper- 
ature : 78 to 82 degrees. 

Flour 196 pounds; yeast food flour 3 pounds; water 122 
pounds; dry milk 2 pounds; compressed yeast 2 to 2 l / 2 
pounds; salt 2y A pounds; sugar 3 pounds; malt extract \y 2 
pounds; lard or oil 3}4 pounds. 

(119) 



120 Bakers' Bread 

Dissolve the yeast in one gallon of water of 85 degrees Fahrenheit, 
with the yeast food and extract, and set aside for 10 minutes. 
Put the salt, sugar and dry milk in the mixer with the rest of the 
water, let the mixer run for a few minutes to dissolve the milk, 
salt and sugar and let in the flour. When the flour is partly 
mixed add the yeast mixture, and (when well incorporated) the 
melted lard or oil. The time of mixing in high-speed mixer may 
require from 16 to 20 minutes; in a slow speed machine from 
23 to 35 minutes. 

The dough, when taken from the mixer, should be about 78 
degrees. Let the dough lie for 2V 2 hours, then, fold over the 
sides, (do not punch down) ; let the dough come up again for 
\y 2 hours; give a good punching, let it stand one hour more and 
punch well again; let it rest for one-half hour more; take to the 
divider' in six hours; then from divider to rounder and proofer; 
in the proofer the loaves are given 15 to 16 minutes, then are con- 
veyed to the moulder, put in pans, placed in racks which are 
wheeled into the proofing chamber, where the loaves are proved 
with some steam. When proved they are cut or left plain, as the 
case may be, and baked with steam in the oven. If the scaling 
and moulding is to be done by hand, the dough should be taken 
in about S l / 2 hours. When all strong flour is used the dough 
should be given more age. Fast speed mixers increase the temper- 
ature during mixing; therefore the temperature of the water 
should be reduced accordingly. 

MALT BREAD, NO. 2. 

Flour 100 pounds; water about 7 l / 2 gallons; malt extract 
W 2 pounds; yeast 12 ounces to 1 pound; dry milk X 1 /?. 
pounds; salt V/ 2 pounds; lard or oil \ l / 2 pounds. 
Dissolve the malt extract in one gallon of water from 85 to 90 
degrees Fahrenheit and add from 8 to 10 pounds of flour to make 
a soft dough; let it stand from 30 to 45 minutes; dissolve the 
yeast in a little water and add to the batter about 5 minutes before 
making the dough. Add the other ingredients as usual, and pro- 
ceed with the dough as given in the previous recipe. This method 
makes a sweet loaf with a good malt flavor. I have used the 
recipe without the milk and have added 2 pounds of oil and one 
pound of sugar which makes a fine cream loaf with a good flavor. 



Malt Extract. 121 

MALT BREAD NO. 3. 

12 quarts water; 5 to 6 ounces yeast; 8 ounces malt ex- 
tract; 10 ounces salt; 6 to 8 ounces of lard or oil, about 
42 pounds of patent flour (more or less according to 
strength) ; from 4 to 6 ounces of sugar may be added, but 
can be left out; 8 ounces of dry milk. 
Dissolve the extract in one quart of warm water; then put in the 
dissolved yeast; put the salt, sugar and milk in the remaining 
water — tempered to give the dough the right degree, and mix in 
the flour; when the flour is partly mixed in add the yeast and ex- 
tract, and last the melter lard or oil. Let the dough come up to 
the turn or until it will not rise any higher; then work over; give 
it one more hour; work over again; give it three-quarters of an 
hour; work over again; then put on the bench, scale and mould 
in the pans. A dough set at about 80 degrees with corresponding 
shop temperature should be ready for the bench in from 5^ to 
6 hours — depending on the strength of the flour used. 

MALT EXTRACT AS A YEAST-SAVER. 

Some bakers use the following formula on account of the 
saving of yeast: 

6 pounds of lard; 2V 2 pounds yeast; 4 pounds yeast food 

flour or cornflakes; 3 pounds malt extract or malt flour; 

9 pounds of sugar; 500 pounds of flour; 294 pounds of 

water. 
The yeast, malt, and yeast food flour or cornflakes are mixed 
with one gallon of water at 85 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit, one hour 
before being used in the mixing. This makes a strong ferment 
which starts up an active fermentation in the dough. This formu- 
la has been paid for by many bakers, and has been kept secret 
for a long time. 



JUL 5 1913 



